Your Opinion on my lift ideas? Please help - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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With the JB Conversions Super Short SYE, they list three options, the 1310 CV Yoke, 1350 Non CV Yoke, and a 1350 Rear Output Flange. Which one of these three is the one I would need? The 1310 CV Yoke?

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post #92 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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what do you guys think about this 8.8. Could probably talk him down to $200 and no brake work really

https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/5400575042.html
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post #93 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw
With the JB Conversions Super Short SYE, they list three options, the 1310 CV Yoke, 1350 Non CV Yoke, and a 1350 Rear Output Flange. Which one of these three is the one I would need? The 1310 CV Yoke?
You need the 1310 CV yoke.
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post #94 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 07:41 PM
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what do you guys think about this 8.8. Could probably talk him down to $200 and no brake work really https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/5400575042.html
I bet he would take $150.00. Tell him that's what they are at the you pull it. You will still need E-brake cables. I used ZJ disc brake E-brake cables for my 8.8 disc brake E-brake setup.

Note the tag in the picture. See the 3L.73. That is 3.73, the L is for limited slip.
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post #95 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 07:52 PM
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No, I meant like a way to make up for the driveshaft being narrower than the D35. Is there a way to make the rear wheel width equal or close to equal to the front wheel width without using wheel spacers, or is that the only way to do it?
You can buy the chromoly shafts and C-clip eliminator kit to make it stock width, but that's not cheap.
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post #96 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 08:27 PM
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...The difference is 5/8" per side. Not really a big difference, but a 1/2" spacer would make it invisible if the difference is something that bothers you. Most will never notice unless you tell them. With that little back spacing it would be a non issue clearance wise.
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Nothing wrong with quality spacers properly installed. Horror stories have other root causes.
So on the subject of spacers, the only ones I can think of that are considered safe are the type are like mine and most of the others on here, being like 1.25" thick. You know the type that use the stock wheel studs to hold the spacer, then the spacers have another set installed to hold the wheel. When I hear mention of 1/2" spacer I can't help thinking thats the type where the studs in the axle flange poke through holes in the spacer and are hopefully long enough for sufficient thread engagement in the lugnuts. Are these normally regarded as a safe way to do it, my mind wants to say no, but I've never looked into it. Or do they make 1/2" ones that have the independent studs but require shorter studs in the axle flange? Edit. Thought about this some more, nuts are nearly 1/2", so they'd stand proud. Like said, the OP has some pretty good backspacing on his rims that shouldn't have any problem. Just curious on the spacers thing.
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post #97 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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I talked to the guy and I'm second in line. If the guy doesn't show up tomorrow to buy it I could get it. Apparently he got it from a Pick a Part, so he knows what it costs. This seems like a pretty damn good 8.8 compared to all of the other ones I have seen, is it not? How good is the trac-loc LSD in them. Is it the clutch pack style that wears out after a while, or would I be able to tell its there offroad?
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post #98 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Now that I think about it I think my BS is 3.75, we ordered 4.25 and got 3.75, but I was happy with them. They stick out like an inch or two with 10.5" tires. I like the wider stance and if I do the 8.8 I don't think the 5/8" difference on each side would really be noticeable, would it?
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post #99 of 251 Old 01-14-2016, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know the compressed length of the rear Savvy 3" springs, I can't seem to find it anywhere. Also people who have experience with the 3" Savvy springs do you actually get the full 3" out of them or less than advertised. My Jeep is fairly light with just a hardtop, 50 pound winch and an engine skid. I have read about them giving less lift than advertised, but those are also old posts and they may have changed by now
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post #100 of 251 Old 01-15-2016, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw
Does anyone know the compressed length of the rear Savvy 3" springs, I can't seem to find it anywhere. Also people who have experience with the 3" Savvy springs do you actually get the full 3" out of them or less than advertised. My Jeep is fairly light with just a hardtop, 50 pound winch and an engine skid. I have read about them giving less lift than advertised, but those are also old posts and they may have changed by now
I got exactly 3" front with a heavy v8. I had the Savvy first gen 3" rears from before they had spring options and got almost 4" on a very light rear.
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post #101 of 251 Old 01-15-2016, 06:15 AM
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No, I meant like a way to make up for the driveshaft being narrower than the D35. Is there a way to make the rear wheel width equal or close to equal to the front wheel width without using wheel spacers, or is that the only way to do it?
Not sure what you mean about narrower driveshaft.
Would your current plan include an SYE, adjustable uppers, and a new rear shaft? If so, the only missing link is a yoke you might find on a Ford Ranger, which bolts to the 8.8 pinion flange and is the same size as TJ stuff.
My point was about track width, it's a 1/2" each side, on my rear 8.8 my fix was "do nothing", with 17x9, 35x12.5 tires at 3.75"BS it worked fine for me.
As long as you get an adjustable track bar and keep it centered, your potential for issues is limited.
That is, unless you still plan to outboard your shocks, which if that's the case get some spacers, put them on with some common sense, and you won't have an issue.

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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
what do you guys think about this 8.8. Could probably talk him down to $200 and no brake work really

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/5400575042.html
I pulled mine at the junkyard for $73.
The cost delta between actually pulling it, and whatever's holding the chain in your craigslist link setting it in your truck, well certianly looks worth it to me.
You might want an aftermarket cover, the stock 8.8 cover is thin stamped steel similiar to a 8.25 they like to catch a lip and peel back creating a leak. Or just get smashed in if you're backing up into something.


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post #102 of 251 Old 01-15-2016, 06:24 AM
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Or do they make 1/2" ones that have the independent studs but require shorter studs in the axle flange? Edit. Thought about this some more, nuts are nearly 1/2", so they'd stand proud. Like said, the OP has some pretty good backspacing on his rims that shouldn't have any problem. Just curious on the spacers thing.
Ideally you'd get studs 1/2" longer for the 1/2" spacers.
I haven't seen a kit that bundles them together, but I haven't really looked.
I like Dorman 611154 nuts, they're one piece, 1/2-20, 3/4" socket, and have a cone taper shoulder that works well with alloy wheels.
Being open on the end is a plus if you would be using longer studs.
For those of us in generation X that might have been in a mosh pit once or twice, these work nice with them:
https://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB...?itemid=205260


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post #103 of 251 Old 01-15-2016, 06:31 AM
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Damn! 7 pages of replies on your first post.

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TheBoogieman is a jerk.
03' Rubicon/Zone 4" coils with 1" spacers up front/Rancho shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/Black Magic brakes. SOLD for Covid-19 pandemic rent money. :(
99' XJ /4.0L-AW4/ 5.5" lift / Rancho shocks/33" DC Extreme country MTs. Jeep #18
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post #104 of 251 Old 01-15-2016, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I didnt mean to say driveshaft, meant trackwidth. So even with 3.75" BS and 12.5" tires you think the tires would still rub on the outboarded shocks? I figured the backspacing would've given me enough clearance
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post #105 of 251 Old 01-15-2016, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Yeah I didnt mean to say driveshaft, meant trackwidth. So even with 3.75" BS and 12.5" tires you think the tires would still rub on the outboarded shocks? I figured the backspacing would've given me enough clearance
That really depends on your new shock tower placement.
You're certainly not going to have a ton of room.
At static ride height it'd probably clear, but the top of the tire gets closer to your frame during uptravel/flex.


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