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post #211 of 251 Old 07-18-2016, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, I guess this might be turning into more of a build thread, but I don't wanna start a new thread for just a couple easy questions.

So I finally got my 33"s mounted and my speedo is off by about 5 mph at highway speeds. Is the speedometer correcter I need the dakota digital SGI-5c or could the SGI-5E work as well. I believe the E is just a newer version and I can get it sooner off amazon, just want to make sure it will still work.

Also since I have 33"s now how well will the stock steering components hold up to those. I priced out the V8 GC tie rod and TRE swap and I can get all the parts for that for just about $100. Should I do that now or is the stock steering still alright for 33"s?


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post #212 of 251 Old 07-19-2016, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Hey guys, I guess this might be turning into more of a build thread, but I don't wanna start a new thread for just a couple easy questions.

So I finally got my 33"s mounted and my speedo is off by about 5 mph at highway speeds. Is the speedometer correcter I need the dakota digital SGI-5c or could the SGI-5E work as well. I believe the E is just a newer version and I can get it sooner off amazon, just want to make sure it will still work.

Also since I have 33"s now how well will the stock steering components hold up to those. I priced out the V8 GC tie rod and TRE swap and I can get all the parts for that for just about $100. Should I do that now or is the stock steering still alright for 33"s?
I'd upgrade the tie rod with any size tires if you take it offroad. I use the Crown set-up.

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TheBoogieman is a jerk.
03' Rubicon/Zone 4" coils with 1" spacers up front/Rancho shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/BM brakes
99' XJ / 5" lift / Rancho shocks/33" DC Extreme country MTs. Jeep #18
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post #213 of 251 Old 07-19-2016, 06:28 AM
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I got all the moog part numbers for all the v8 zj steering parts.
almost every company uses moogs part numbers.
Then searched ebay by price for all the numbers.
Cost me $80 shipped to my door for everything.
Working with all new parts, makes an alignment a breeze.
The stock stuff went on my friends old beater zj.
His stuff is my spare.

Then i got a monroe sc2928 steering stabilizer for $30 on rock auto.
It includes the mounting stud and hardware.
Mine would not come off my old drag link.

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post #214 of 251 Old 07-19-2016, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
I got all the moog part numbers for all the v8 zj steering parts.
almost every company uses moogs part numbers.
Then searched ebay by price for all the numbers.
Cost me $80 shipped to my door for everything.
Working with all new parts, makes an alignment a breeze.
The stock stuff went on my friends old beater zj.
His stuff is my spare.

Then i got a monroe sc2928 steering stabilizer for $30 on rock auto.
It includes the mounting stud and hardware.
Mine would not come off my old drag link.
I'm going with the premium napa chassis parts since I can get them with a discount. I may also get a rancho stabilizer through them since we are a distributor for rancho.

The ZJ tie rod is a solid tube, right? Not hollow like the stock one?
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post #215 of 251 Old 07-19-2016, 10:45 AM
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The ZJ tie rod is a solid tube, right? Not hollow like the stock one?
correct


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post #216 of 251 Old 07-20-2016, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
I'm going with the premium napa chassis parts since I can get them with a discount. I may also get a rancho stabilizer through them since we are a distributor for rancho.

The ZJ tie rod is a solid tube, right? Not hollow like the stock one?
those will do just fine.
napa used to use mcquay norris chassis in the old days, not sure on its current supplier.

yes, the tie rod tube is solid, and larger diamater.

v8 zj parts are cheaper than tj stuff also, and all parts normally interchange.
the zj drag link puts the stabilizer mount at a slightly different angle, but it usually fits without issue.
if you had a larger than stock body on the stabilizer, it might be an issue.

every steering part on my ljr is from a v8 zj.
the drag link parts are not any stronger, but they are cheaper.
only the tie rod is bigger/stronger.

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post #217 of 251 Old 07-20-2016, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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I don't know who our manufacturer is, but all of our premium ncp chassis parts use a Teflon coating inside the TRE that newer cars come with from the factory now. They last a lot longer, are a low friction joint and require little to no grease
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post #218 of 251 Old 07-20-2016, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone have an answer for my question on the Dakota digital box. The sgi5c vs the sgi5e
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post #219 of 251 Old 07-20-2016, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Im also thinking about flipping the tie rod on the drivers side and I know I would need Blaine's raised sway bar link brackets and gussets, but I can't seem to find the tapered insert for the tie rod on the Black Magic Brake website. Anyone have a link to it or something similar that would work?

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post #220 of 251 Old 07-23-2016, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so now that I've got my 1.25" BL and 33"s on I finally got some measurements done.

This picture is with the driver's side at full bump with no bumpstop extensions. The 33" just barely rubs the flare, but I still have about 1/4" to 1/2" inside between the tire and the inner fender well. I am going to keep my eye out for a set of rubi or sahara flares, but for now this will probably be alright.

I also got some measurements for my future front shock mount extensions.

Right now my N66 shocks up front reach full compression right at full bump, this picture is maybe 1/8" from full bump, but the distance between my shock mounts is right about 13.5".

All my travel estimations after this are assuming I have the Savvy Mid Arm kit on my TJ so I won't need to worry about the wheelbase becoming too short at full droop.

I have read various posts about the upper shock mount relocation with the Ford shock towers and it seems like extending the mount 4" is very doable with some clearing of the tub to allow for the bolt to go in.

I have searched for threads about extending the lower mount, but they are few and far between so I'm kind of winging this one, but I think I could probably extend it 2" lower off the side of the shock mount nearer to the tire with a steel plate welded to the side of the mount with the appropriate size bolt welded to it for the eye of the shock. I need to make sure that at full turn the tires wouldn't rub the shock mount, but I think I'll have just enough space.

My finger shows the ideal location of the lower shock mount with the 4" extension up top already included.

So with a current 13.5" at full bump stock, then add the 4" extension at the upper mount and the 2" extension at the lower mount, at full bump I should have 19.5" between my new upper and lower shock mounts at full bump with now extensions. This means I would be able to fit a Rancho RS999056 shock, I believe this is the one Mudb8 recommends for use on a TJ with outboarded rear shocks. It has a compressed length of 19.49" and an extended length of 32.27" for a total travel of 12.78" with eyes on both ends. I may use .5" BS extension just as a safety buffer for the shock and fender flares if I need it.

Currently I have a 2" BB, but my springs have sagged from my winch and at ride height measure almost exactly 11". I believe stock springs at normal ride height measure about 12", so I only have about 1" of lift in the front. Currently the length of my shocks at ride height is 18.5" which means I have about 5" of up travel. If I were to extend my shock mounts a total of 6" my shock ride height would be 24.5" at 1" of lift. My ideal lift height 3.5" with the MC front coils for their very long free length at 23" to support more down travel. So add another 2.5" from future lift and my shock ride height will be 27" at 3.5" of lift. I'm pretty sure my math is right, but that would mean I'd have 7.5" of up travel and 5.25" of down travel.

I know its best to have balanced up and down travel, but would this work well, or is it too imbalanced. 5.25" of down travel would mean I'd have about 2" more possible down travel until the MC springs start to unseat. I could also try to find a shock that has about a 20.5" compressed length along with 1" BS extension to balance out the up and down travel closer to 6" - 7" up and 6" down and that would put me right about where my front springs would unseat.

I don't think I will have any interference anywhere else that would prevent up travel, as I plan on using the MC front track bar which will clear at full factory bump, I am going to be using the ZJ tie rod and stock drag link which also clear at full factory bump and I don't plan on going larger than 33"s. Even if I went to 35"s I could change fenders or add 1" BS extensions and look for a shock around 20.5" compressed and still have about the same travel.

I guess I'm asking if there is anything I am missing. I know these travel estimations seem pretty high, but I can't find anything that makes them not seem feasible. I don't think I'm missing anything and all my math is right, I think. With a 3 link from the mid arm kit I think it should be able to flex this much.

Is there something I'm missing or can I actually pull this off, if you see something please tell me.
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post #221 of 251 Old 07-23-2016, 11:55 PM
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Look through my build thread for where I raised the lower shock mount to regain the unused travel on my OME N66s. I borrowed much of the idea from Unlimited04. It might be of interest until you can relocate your upper mounts.

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post #222 of 251 Old 07-23-2016, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
Look through my build thread for where I raised the lower shock mount to regain the unused travel on my OME N66s. I borrowed much of the idea from Unlimited04. It might be of interest until you can relocate your upper mounts.
I don't have any unused travel on my N66s. I don't need to raise the lower mounts
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post #223 of 251 Old 07-24-2016, 12:05 AM
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Something doesn't add up. Based on your 1.25" BL, 2"BB, 33's and the required bump stop to keep your tires out of the steel fenders, I think you do. I've been down a very similar road. I had over an inch of travel not being used at full bump with the needed extension. I turned it into droop.

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post #224 of 251 Old 07-24-2016, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
Something doesn't add up. Based on your 2"BB, 33's and the required bump stop to keep your tires out of the steel fenders, I think you do. I've been down a very similar road. I had over an inch of travel not being used at full bump with the needed extension.
I don't have any bump stop extension, just the factory bumps. The N66s reach full compression when I hit full bump. 13.5" between the shock mounts and the N66s compress to about 13.2"
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post #225 of 251 Old 07-24-2016, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
I don't have any bump stop extension, just the factory bumps. The N66s reach full compression when I hit full bump. 13.5" between the shock mounts and the N66s compress to about 13.2"
They reach full compression at factory bump with 33" tires installed? Stuff the passenger side and let the driver side hang. Turn the wheels back and forth.

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