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Trevlaw 01-10-2016 11:11 PM

Your Opinion on my lift ideas? Please help
 
222 Attachment(s)
Hello everyone, this is my first post on the forum. I have done my fair share of reading over the past months researching my ideal plan for lifting my TJ. As it sits now I am running a 2" BB with N66 and N67 shocks, DIY disconnects, on 31" Duratracs.
I have determined that right now when disconnected I can completely flex out with my shocks and control arms being my limiting factors, as they max out at the same time. In my head I have kind of a 2 part plan, one part including a 1.25" BL and 33x12.5 Duratracs as I can run them fine with 3.73 gears on the 32rh. I'd like to continue to increase the flex on my TJ with the following....

- Outboarding the rear shocks and relocating the spring perches
- Lower shock shifters on the rear axle
- Extending the front upper shock mounts with ford towers
- Full set of Metalcloak CA w/ Duroflex joints
- Longer front and rear sway bar links
- Appropriate length shocks, probably Ranchos or OME depending on lengths
- The last part is the coil springs I would need, I am thinking the Savvy 3" coils or the MC 3.5" coils.(If someone could give me the definite free lengths and compressed lengths that would be very helpful, along with personal experience with either)

I know I would also need an SYE and a Double Cardan drive shaft with the 3" lift, but that's for another time haha. With these two I would also probably install the 1" MML and hopefully do a tummy tuck as well to go with my engine skid.

With the 3"+ lift what is necessary to do with the front and rear track bars, I'm pretty certain I'd either need a relocation bracket to compensate for the increased pull to the side or an adjustable track bar( any advice on which track bars would be greatly appreciated).

I figure this should net me about 4.25" - 4.75" lift depending on the springs and this should look pretty good with the 33" Duratracs and stock flares. I'm trying to maintain a fairly equal ratio of up and down travel with at least 4" - 5" of up travel. Mainly I need to increase flex in the rear as that is what limits me on the trails right now since lockers are nowhere in sight.

So guys, what do you think, any and all suggestions are wanted as I have tried to think this out as well as possible, but if you see any problems in my idea please let me know.

rda616 01-11-2016 06:52 AM

The free lengths will very with the rear Currie spring depending on which option you choose, but the front is 20". The MC rears require 3" of bumpstop extension and a 19" free length. It's a spring I could never see wanting or using. I do however like the front MC spring.

I would consider the Fox 2.0 shocks as well.

The metalcloak track bar is my first choice with a 3"-3.5" lift.

Ben 01-11-2016 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trevlaw (Post 33544026)
Mainly I need to increase flex in the rear as that is what limits me on the trails right now since lockers are nowhere in sight.

An inch or two more wheel travel, and a diff that's a 1/2" higher out of the rocks is not going to deliver the night and day performance delta that deeper gearing and a pair of lockers would.
You think 33" tires on your setup is fine with stock gears... I disagree.
You already have a nice set of shocks, if they're not old or worn out, why replace them first?
RDA616's number is right from what I've seen, the Currie 3" spring is 20" out of the box, not sure compressed though.
That's just my 2 cents.

Trevlaw 01-11-2016 08:22 AM

222 Attachment(s)
If you don't think 33"s on 3.73 with the 32rh would be fine, what would you suggest. With 31"s I'm already pushing 2800 rpms at about 60mph. I'd understand maybe 4.10, but I don't know how much deeper I could go. If I only plan on running 33"s I'd rather not invest to lock the rear D35 and I am not sure about an auto locker up front since I like to do a good amount of snow driving. I'm pretty sure with my plans above I would be gaining more than a half inch of clearance and an inch or two of travel.

TheBoogieman 01-11-2016 08:25 AM

4.10 is ideal, but 3.73 is fine with your tranny. I wouldn't waste the money to regear from 3.73 to 4.10.

pagrey 01-11-2016 09:42 AM

What tire pressure do you run on the trails? Sounds like you are heading in the wrong direction for a traction increase. Just for the cost of those glittery gold control arms and the SYE/driveshaft you are in the same ballpark as a D44 with a locker, it wont look as cool but it'll get the job done.

Ben 01-11-2016 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trevlaw (Post 33546690)
If you don't think 33"s on 3.73 with the 32rh would be fine, what would you suggest. With 31"s I'm already pushing 2800 rpms at about 60mph. I'd understand maybe 4.10, but I don't know how much deeper I could go. If I only plan on running 33"s I'd rather not invest to lock the rear D35 and I am not sure about an auto locker up front since I like to do a good amount of snow driving. I'm pretty sure with my plans above I would be gaining more than a half inch of clearance and an inch or two of travel.

How often do you do 70mph.
Do you do a lot of city driving.
Is the Jeep a trail rig or a daily driver.
If you do a lot of snow driving I agree a lunchbox up front isn't ideal, it could work but might not be best.
You don't have to regear the D35.
Look on craigslist for someone parting out a TJ and find a D44 in the 4s.

If suspension is your only concern, your plan seems sound, it's just a very expensive list that leaves you open/open on a D35.

TheBoogieman 01-11-2016 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WKdeuce (Post 33548154)
You don't have to regear the D35.
Look on craigslist for someone parting out a TJ and find a D44 in the 4s.

Buying a D44 cost more than building one, where I live. $1200 minimum.

Ben 01-11-2016 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBoogieman (Post 33551106)
Buying a D44 cost more than building one, where I live. $1200 minimum.

You gonna add some of your own thoughts regarding Trevlaw's Jeep, or just play semantics with mine?

TheBoogieman 01-11-2016 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WKdeuce (Post 33553746)
You gonna add some of your own thoughts regarding Trevlaw's Jeep, or just play semantics with mine?

Only he knows what he wants to do with his Jeep.:shhh:

Trevlaw 01-11-2016 04:20 PM

222 Attachment(s)
My jeep is currently the only rig I have and I do a good amount of city driving to and from school and just messing around in town. I also drive the highway quite a bit, especially since its the only way to the mountains, however I never do 70 mph because I don't really like the idea of pushing 3200 RPM's constantly on the highway.

I understand that lockers would help a lot capability wise, but a D44 isn't really in sight any time soon and I figured that if I could increase the flex of my jeep the tires would stay in contact with the ground and help alleviate the downsides of open differentials. If I do anything with the diffs it would probably just be a Powertrax No-Slip in the front D30 to help offroad as I don't do a ton of snow wheeling, but I do that more than anything else, if that makes sense.

Does anyone know the free and extended lengths of the MC 3.5 front springs because their website says 22.5" and 6.2", but I read conflicting information saying they are 7.2" compressed. I have an xrc 8 winch with synthetic line and an engine skid upfront, so what would you guys think about 3.5" MC springs up front with the 3" Curries in the rear possibly with spacers to level it out. I'd like a smooth ride similar to stock and I mainly want to try and keep the springs from unseating a lot when flexing if not at all. I think I just need to determine what springs to use because I don't think the shocks will be limiting me a lot if I extend the fronts and outboard the rears.

For the rears what do you think about 2" OME coils with a 1" spacer? That may not be a good idea lol

ravenworks 01-11-2016 04:29 PM

I got 3-1/2" with my OME springs.

Leffnasty 01-11-2016 04:37 PM

My advice is to avoid OME in the rear if you want more than 2" out of them. I am currently looking to replace them, perhaps with Currie 3".

OME's are simply too soft unless you are running airbags or have a very light jeep, IMO.

rda616 01-11-2016 04:44 PM

The MC front spring is 22.5" free and requires no bumpstop extension. The Currie 3" is 20" free and requires no bumpstop extension. Both collapse completely into a stock bumpstop without binding. The Currie 4" front spring is 22.6" and will collapse completely into a stock bumpstop, but I would add .5" of extension just to be safe on over compression.

The Currie 3" springs come with the +.5" and -.5" option. There is no need for a spacer. There is nothing wrong with mixing and matching springs to suit your needs. I have MC fronts and Moog rear springs.

ravenworks 01-11-2016 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leffnasty (Post 33554522)
My advice is to avoid OME in the rear if you want more than 2" out of them. I am currently looking to replace them, perhaps with Currie 3".

OME's are simply too soft unless you are running airbags or have a very light jeep, IMO.

I call B/S on this one.
I put the heavy springs on and the ride is OK as long as the hardtop is on.
My LJ is about 5200 lbs.


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