Wrangler Magnum V8 Discussion - Page 202 - JeepForum.com
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post #3016 of 3032 Old 05-09-2021, 05:27 PM
Toonces
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpin86 View Post
Tuning fell through again. A friend told me of a shop that I didnít know was so close that does dyno tuning. So Iím packed up and dropping it off. Iíll post results when itís done. Iím not looking for MAX HP. Iím looking for reliable and good running tune.
http://www.injectedengineering.com/
Thanks for keeping this thread up on how it's going. I'm on a low budget (no budget really) and finding out what works is very helpful! Plus I love the pics of your Jeep! It inspires me to keep going as it gets hot here in the desert. I try to get out in the garage and clean or do something every day.

I have my 5.9 apart and ready to go into the machine shop in the next week or two for cleaning and inspection. The engine was a crate motor from ATK that was in an accident a few months after install. It was sent back to ATK for warranty and they did not find anything wrong with it but they did disassemble it for warranty inspection and just threw it back together since they didn't find any issues. When I was taking everything apart to inspect and re-assemble, the only thing I found was the number 7 rod bearing had some dirt in it that embedded into the bearing so I completely disassembled and it's going to the shop to get cleaned and blasted and new bearings. Another issue was an oil leak into the intake so the piston tops and valves have partially baked on oil. So off to get cleaned and prepped for me to finish building. I've not built an engine before so I will probably have the shop do short block assembly so my son and I can build the rest of the engine together.

Everything is stock. If I am going to do a cam, now would be the time. My goals are to have a V8 TJ that is dependable and gets better than the 14MPG I get now with the 4 banger. The 5.9 is already 2X the HP & Torque of the 2.5 it's replacing and I expect I should probably get better MPG (or at least not worse) than the engine it's replacing. That said, is the Hughes SER0814ALN-14 or similar cam worth doing? I was thinking of getting my cam reground by Bullet or Delta in a similar grind to the Hughes cam to save on cost. I know I would need new springs and possibly pushrods (If I do a regrind) but given that everything else is stock, is doing a cam worth the price? Will it help in the MPG department (MPG isn't my only goal. I wouldn't drive the Jeep if it was) but I wouldn't want to not do it if I can get a little better mileage by doing the cam now while it's cost will be the lowest for me to do. It's more like I'd like to find the sweet spot that lets the engine breathe better and get better all around performance if possible. I don't need max HP or torque out of it, just a good balance for the engine. I've been doing a lot of reading in the past few weeks and it seems like it might be a good thing to do? I keep seeing Wildman4x4 in all of the Mopar forums so I must be on the right track

Any thoughts on a cam profile that will be the best bang for the buck? My ECU is out of a 99 1500 5.2 5 speed. The 5.9 is going in front of an NV3550. 4" lift with 33" on the TJ. 4.10 gears in the dana 30/35. If I ever break the rear, it'll get a ford 8.8 but not until I break it or someone goes 1 tons and sells me theirs ready to go for cheap (I can hope!).

Thanks!

Keep up the great work jpin86 & Wildman4x4!

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post #3017 of 3032 Old 05-12-2021, 03:42 PM
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Yes ANY cam change would be a good idea if it's a stock or close to stock cam.

I got a custom ground cam from HiPoTek but haven't started my engine yet so I can't say how it is.
Since you are gunna have to have a tune for your PCM to change it from a 5.2 to a 5.9 so getting it tuned for your cam isn't gunna cost anymore. I'm guessing you have read all the tech articles on Hughes Engines website?
I've read other articles that say the same thing about the stock cam in either the 5.2/5.9. Another place to look at would be http://utawesomeperformance.com/index.html as he makes some nice performance parts also.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #3018 of 3032 Old 05-16-2021, 06:55 PM
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Yes ANY cam change would be a good idea if it's a stock or close to stock cam.

I got a custom ground cam from HiPoTek but haven't started my engine yet so I can't say how it is.
Since you are gunna have to have a tune for your PCM to change it from a 5.2 to a 5.9 so getting it tuned for your cam isn't gunna cost anymore. I'm guessing you have read all the tech articles on Hughes Engines website?
I've read other articles that say the same thing about the stock cam in either the 5.2/5.9. Another place to look at would be http://utawesomeperformance.com/index.html as he makes some nice performance parts also.
Thanks Wildman, I've been through the Hughes tech articles and now UTAwesome's and think I might go with UTAwesome's "RV" cam 206/206 112LSA .464 lift w/1.6. It's essentially keeping it in line with a stock rebuild that'll breathe a little better and doesn't require me to change out springs. I'm going to pick up the valley pan he makes too. The motor I have was only in a truck for 7 months before it was wrecked but the intake was suffering from plenum oil leak. I have an aluminum plate to fix that issue but keeping hot oil off the bottom of the intake plenum is a good idea just to lower temps on the intake.
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post #3019 of 3032 Old 05-17-2021, 08:33 PM
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Here’s the result of my dyno tune, but It has to go back. I’m still having idle issues when coasting to a stop. My cam is a custom grind from bullet cams. 218/226 @.050, 525/525 lift ground on a 112 lobe center, installed 4 degrees advanced. 9.6:1 Keith black pistons, edelbrock heads, comp cams ultra pro roller rockers. Stock intake and injectors. 1993 Dakota exhaust manifolds, dual 2 1/2 exhaust. Max hp at the wheels 236 and 309 torque. Around 300hp 370 torque at the crank factoring in a 20% drivetrain loss.

https://youtu.be/o2YHxIcyKuo
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post #3020 of 3032 Old 09-03-2021, 10:37 PM
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Got my shifter lengthened 2 inches and raised 1.25 because of the body lift. I welded in 5/8 rod, ground down the welds and added a 3/4 od 5/8 id sleeve for extra strength.
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post #3021 of 3032 Old 09-27-2021, 10:15 PM
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OK all,
I'd asked about this before and hadn't gotten a response. So I'd found a set of headers for CHEAP on Facebook so I ordered them just to try them out.







I have the Savvy midarm suspension on my TJ so this might be different on others rigs. Since many here have used the stock exhaust manifolds I thought I'd give this a try instead of the block huggers.

So the midarm upper link is right under where these headers dump out at.





But I think I can notch the lip on the tub and snake the exhaust past all of it. I'll know in the next couple of days since the flanges will be here this week. I'm going to be doing 2.5" from the headers into the Y-pipe and then 3" to the back of the rig.



And of course the passenger side is a piece of cake.





And then just cause I had to post a picture of my intake again.


WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #3022 of 3032 Old 09-28-2021, 08:24 AM
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Rick, have you looked where your front driveshaft will go? On my rig I had to clear both the link and the driveshaft. Itís tight to say the least, and I still get a small but of contact on my shaft at full stuff - just enough the scuff the paint.
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post #3023 of 3032 Old 09-28-2021, 09:02 AM
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Rick, have you looked where your front driveshaft will go? On my rig I had to clear both the link and the driveshaft. Itís tight to say the least, and I still get a small but of contact on my shaft at full stuff - just enough the scuff the paint.
The flanges will be here today or tomorrow so I'll be able to start test fitting some pipe then. I was planning on taking the driveshafts to the shop to get lengthened Friday but might wait until next week so I have time to play with the shafts and exhaust.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #3024 of 3032 Old 09-28-2021, 11:08 AM
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It looks like they dump out the same place factory exhaust manifolds do.
If you don’t want to mess with headers, you can get a set of factory 92-93 Dakota manifolds. The outlet is biggest out of all magnum manifolds.
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post #3025 of 3032 Old 09-28-2021, 11:35 AM
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It looks like they dump out the same place factory exhaust manifolds do.
If you donít want to mess with headers, you can get a set of factory 92-93 Dakota manifolds. The outlet is biggest out of all magnum manifolds.
Well this was a huge experiment in the first place and I wouldn't be going thru this much trouble for stock manifolds. I get that for many headers don't seem to help or they cause issues. But I've had good luck with headers and with the way I have this engine built I think headers are going to be needed.

If I can't fit the Y-pipe back there I can always go back to the block hugger headers.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #3026 of 3032 Old 09-28-2021, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jpin86 View Post
It looks like they dump out the same place factory exhaust manifolds do.
If you don’t want to mess with headers, you can get a set of factory 92-93 Dakota manifolds. The outlet is biggest out of all magnum manifolds.
Well this was a huge experiment in the first place and I wouldn't be going thru this much trouble for stock manifolds. I get that for many headers don't seem to help or they cause issues. But I've had good luck with headers and with the way I have this engine built I think headers are going to be needed.

If I can't fit the Y-pipe back there I can always go back to the block hugger headers.
What exhaust are you going to use? Dual 2 1/2 into a single 3?
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post #3027 of 3032 Old 09-28-2021, 05:37 PM
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What exhaust are you going to use? Dual 2 1/2 into a single 3?
2.5" from the headers to Y-pipe into a 2 into 1 piece and then 3" thru the cat and either to the rear or just in front of the axle depending on what I have room for. The other people who have built the stroker motors have all said they had to go to 3" or larger exhaust. One ran the exhaust he'd made for his 5.2 and when he upgraded to 3" he noticed a huge performance gain.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #3028 of 3032 Old 11-09-2021, 08:12 AM
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Anyone have a reputable company they can refer for a ecm rebuild?
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post #3029 of 3032 Old 11-24-2021, 11:54 AM
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I've run into an issue with my V8 swap. Any clutch aficionados out there? I have a 97 Wrangler 2.5L AX5 that now has a 5.9L with AX15. I installed a 5.9L flywheel and my first clutch the pedal was extremely hard to press and I broke the slave. I replaced slave/master assembly (meant for a 1997 Wrangler) and a different branded 12" clutch to fit the 5.9L flywheel. Now when I push the clutch pedal it is squishy all the way to the floor and it does not disengage the tranny. I don't believe anything is wrong on the clutch side. So I'm thinking that the problem is either with the TO or the slave. Any thoughts?
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post #3030 of 3032 Old 11-24-2021, 12:55 PM
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I've run into an issue with my V8 swap. Any clutch aficionados out there? I have a 97 Wrangler 2.5L AX5 that now has a 5.9L with AX15. I installed a 5.9L flywheel and my first clutch the pedal was extremely hard to press and I broke the slave. I replaced slave/master assembly (meant for a 1997 Wrangler) and a different branded 12" clutch to fit the 5.9L flywheel. Now when I push the clutch pedal it is squishy all the way to the floor and it does not disengage the tranny. I don't believe anything is wrong on the clutch side. So I'm thinking that the problem is either with the TO or the slave. Any thoughts?

I ran into similar issues when I first setup my clutch. With the pedal fully depressed it wouldnít disengage. I ended up adding some length to the master cylinder to clutch pedal rod. Shims were also added to space the fly wheel from from the block.

1998 TJ 5.9l
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