Warn Hub Conversion wheel center bore size - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 07-15-2010, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
CB3
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Warn Hub Conversion wheel center bore size

I'm not doing a Warn Hub conversion right now, but might someday in future.

I am considering buying a set of 15 X 9 wheels right now (for some Trxus 34 X 12.5 R15 tires).

So I'd like to know what is the wheel center bore diameterneeded to clear a Warn Hub Kit?

Warn Small Hub Kit?

Warn Big Hub Kit?

With that info, I might be better able to make better informed buying decisions about wheels, in case I install a hub kit in future.

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post #2 of 20 Old 07-15-2010, 06:10 PM
freeskier93
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Just curious as to why you would want locking hubs, do you want to put a spool in up front?
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post #3 of 20 Old 07-15-2010, 06:31 PM
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Locking hubs are cool.

To the op, I would assume this is either based on the CJ 5x5.5 bolt pattern and uses that opening, or it uses the ford ranger size hubs, which are a bit smaller. If you're doing the conversion do you have all the parts?

You could also call warn and ask.

-Blake-

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post #4 of 20 Old 07-15-2010, 07:00 PM
Jerry Bransford
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It's been a while since I did mine but I believe the brake rotor needs to be machined out to 3.575".

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #5 of 20 Old 07-15-2010, 07:59 PM
conrasm
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I have the installation instruction in my email and just looked. "Center hole on rotor need machined out to 3.575 +/- 0.015". This is for the small hub kit. Jerry you were right on. Don't how you remembered that!

I can forward them to you if you want. PM me with email address if interested.

I don't think calling warn anymore is worthwhile. I believe they sold the rights for the conversion to Randy's Ring and Pinion.

Shawn
'00 TJ Sahara (RC 4" LA kit)
'06 Grand Cherokee Limited
'07 Ram 1500 quad cab

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post #6 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
Just curious as to why you would want locking hubs, do you want to put a spool in up front?
Advantages of manual hubs:

1) I'd get better gas mileage. I know it's not enough better to pay for the conversion, but it is better by 1 to 2 mpg, which I consider a nice bonus to the other benefits. An mpg here from one mod, there from another, adds up.

2) I could disengage the front hubs if something breaks in the front-end drive-train.

3) I have a slight drive train vibe in my front-end, or in the front of T-case, that MudB8 improved with front drive-line balancing, but he has never been completely able to get rid of. If I could disengage the front hubs, there'd be no vibe - because vibe went away when he removed front drive-line.
He's verified it's not the frontend, and the front driveline is well balanced now, but he says maybe a bit of vibe (occurs starting at 65 mph and is rythmic) is possibly coming from the front T-case output shaft. Perhaps I should have T-case rebuilt?

Well maybe, but I have very low diff gears and therefore high driveline rpm, and also have Nth TT with hard tranny mounts. So I think maybe either of those or both might be causing or contributing.
4) Stronger wheel bearings, at least with a Warn Large Hub Kit. Not sure how strong the wheel bearings are with Warn Small Hub Kit. Also, parts can be replaced in the Warn Hubs, like bearings. Not so with stock unit-hub.

5) Manual Hubs are cool. Don't laugh. You know they are and we probably do all care about the coolness factor to a point, or we'd be driving some little rice burning 2X.
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post #7 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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Back to the topic though.

What wheel center-bore diameter is needed to clear Warn manual hubs?

That's been answered by Jerry and Conrasm for the Warn Small Hub Kit. Thanks.

How about for the Warn Big Hub Kit?
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post #8 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 03:46 AM Thread Starter
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P.S. - I'm not buying any hub kit right now. I'm buying 15 X 9 wheels for 34 X 12.5 R15 tires (Trxus), and want to choose a wheel with a center bore that is suitable for manual hubs in the future, just in case I ever get manual hubs.
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post #9 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 04:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conrasm View Post
"Center hole on rotor need machined out to 3.575" +/- 0.015". This is for the small hub kit.
So is that what the wheel center-bore needs to be? 3.575"? Same as rotor center bore?
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post #10 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 09:37 AM
Jerry Bransford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB3 View Post
Advantages of manual hubs:

1) I'd get better gas mileage.
Perhaps on older Jeeps but not on the TJ. Its front-end/axle/t-case are a much better design that don't benefit from lockout hubs like older CJs did. My mpg has never changed if I forget to unlock my hubs. In fact, I can't tell when my hubs (both my previous TJ and present Rubicon have manual hubs) are locked or unlocked unless I get out and look.

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post #11 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 09:39 AM
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CB3...

I just looked at the instructions again. The 3.575" +/- 0.015" is for the rotor, not the actual wheel. The rotor is sandwiched between the studs and the wheel hub, studs pressed in from the back of the rotor into the hub. This also means changing rotors is more involved than stock configuration since the studs need to be pressed out, new rotor center hole machined, and studs pressed back in.

To answer the question about the wheel center hole...

"Some wheels may not fit over the hublock body as required. Wheel center hole must be at least 2.78" in diameter. Check you wheels before proceeding."

I have a set of Crager D-windows wheels and center hole is plenty big enough for hub to stick thru. The factory steel wheels on my Cherokee (SE) also fit over the hublock.

Sorry I can't be of help on the Warn Big Hub kit.

Someone PM'd me a question about how much track width the kit adds. I know the wheel hub, which is outboard of the rotor, has a 1/2" thick flange, but the kit adds 3/4" overall to each side, which makes front trackwidth 1 1/2" wider than stock. You have to add the thickness of the lock out flange as well, which is 1/4". I can't really notice it on my cherokee.

Shawn
'00 TJ Sahara (RC 4" LA kit)
'06 Grand Cherokee Limited
'07 Ram 1500 quad cab

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Last edited by conrasm; 07-16-2010 at 09:59 AM.
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post #12 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 09:52 AM
Jerry Bransford
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It adds 3/4" on both sides for a 1.5" wider track width. I know that's the case for the small hub kit I installed on my '97 TJ and I think that's the same for the big hub kit Gerald installed on my '04 before I bought it.

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post #13 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 10:48 AM
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Sorry to Hijack but with alloy USA selling 30 spline outers the the 44 would that make it easier to convert to hubs and does warn still sell the kit ?


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post #14 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 11:37 AM
Jerry Bransford
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Warn no longer sells their hub kits and good luck getting anything out of Randy's who bought Warn's hub and axle shaft business. A Randy's rep blew some smoke up my butt a few months ago when I asked him when their backordered spindles would arrive and start shipping.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #15 of 20 Old 07-16-2010, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Perhaps on older Jeeps but not on the TJ. Its front-end/axle/t-case are a much better design that don't benefit from lockout hubs like older CJs did. My mpg has never changed if I forget to unlock my hubs. In fact, I can't tell when my hubs (both my previous TJ and present Rubicon have manual hubs) are locked or unlocked unless I get out and look.
That's good to know. Thanks Jerry.
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