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post #31 of 38 Old 04-08-2013, 09:35 AM
Imped
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If you raise the transmission, you raise the exhaust. It doesn't matter what skid you use, who it's from or what they say.....you want to cut the exhaust mount down by the amount you raise the transmission over stock so that the exhaust remains neutral. It's very intuitive when you think about it and it's really that simple.


OlllllllO

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post #32 of 38 Old 04-08-2013, 09:39 AM
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I bet you would not need to modify your exhaust hanger since you have the bigger bl. But if you do, it is not really a big deal if you can cut and weld. My exhaust was barely rattling against the tub before I modified the hanger. It was more annoying than anything else.

Good luck!

**Edit**
What Imped says makes sense about needing to modify the exhaust.

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post #33 of 38 Old 04-08-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
Ljcrawler05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
If you raise the transmission, you raise the exhaust. It doesn't matter what skid you use, who it's from or what they say.....you want to cut the exhaust mount down by the amount you raise the transmission over stock so that the exhaust remains neutral. It's very intuitive when you think about it and it's really that simple.
Makes sense when you put it that way. But I haven't read a post/thread by you that didn't. So when savvy decides to get their under armor manufacturing going again I'll just make the changes as necessary, but with their adjustable hanger it won't be too much of an issue.
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post #34 of 38 Old 04-08-2013, 10:22 AM
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Savvy uses a slotted hanger with plenty of adjustment. Support the exhaust so that it's neutral--not sagging or being forced up--and tighten down the bolts. Done.

OlllllllO

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post #35 of 38 Old 04-08-2013, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Savvy uses a slotted hanger with plenty of adjustment. Support the exhaust so that it's neutral--not sagging or being forced up--and tighten down the bolts. Done.
Sounds solid, just gotta get it to my door
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post #36 of 38 Old 04-08-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
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Savvy uses a slotted hanger with plenty of adjustment. Support the exhaust so that it's neutral--not sagging or being forced up--and tighten down the bolts. Done.
This is the reason im going to switch over to savvy. I screwed my stock exhaust hanger, cut out too much, now the muffler is riding on the skid. Im pretty sure my exhaust is in a bind since i had to hook it up and then forcefully slide the hanger back in place on the 3550 it can't be good....

Rokmen TT, Rokmen control arms, Novak NV241 cable shifter, JKS 1.25" BL + 1" MML.

Anybody can take advice if it doesn't interfere with their plan.

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post #37 of 38 Old 04-08-2013, 11:44 AM
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That's a pretty good indicator that it's not sitting neutrally. You could pick up a new bracket off eBay or just figure out where it needs to be, cut a piece of steel to use as a splice, and weld it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-Jeep-W...ac0191&vxp=mtr

Just a tip: When I do this, I preload the exhaust up just a bit, like 1/4". That will keep it tight and will prevent the hanger from moving around inside the bushing.

OlllllllO

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post #38 of 38 Old 04-08-2013, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
That's a pretty good indicator that it's not sitting neutrally. You could pick up a new bracket off eBay or just figure out where it needs to be, cut a piece of steel to use as a splice, and weld it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-Jeep-W...ac0191&vxp=mtr

Just a tip: When I do this, I preload the exhaust up just a bit, like 1/4". That will keep it tight and will prevent the hanger from moving around inside the bushing.
First of all, thanks for the link. Dealership had no idea what i was talking about.

I made a rookie mistake when taking measurements. I lifted the 3550 and threw a jack stand underneath and then took my measures... I ended up cutting just a hair less than an inch. Once everything was welded up and i went to install it is when i realized what i have done.

I could easily splice another piece in but am thinking that may not be the best way to go about it. Id rather get a whole new bracket and eliminate extra welds.

Im very happy with my rokmen skid. But i figured if im gonna go thru all this trouble to put the exhaust back to neutral position i might as well go ahead and get some more clearance with Savvy. The weight also played a role, i forgot just how much that pig weighs.

Rokmen TT, Rokmen control arms, Novak NV241 cable shifter, JKS 1.25" BL + 1" MML.

Anybody can take advice if it doesn't interfere with their plan.

RIP "Prescott 19" Prescott Fire Department
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