Tub-lining project with dupli-coat... progress so far. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
Erik T.
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Tub-lining project with dupli-coat... progress so far.

UPDATED ON JULY 22nd, 2011!
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tu...l#post11901544

I recommend AGAINST it. Go with RAPTOR or MONSTALINER.


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I went with Dupli-Coat, cause I can.

I picked up a quart of the stuff, and a rattle can of it for kicks.

I ended up returning the quart and getting more rattle cans. I only did the rear half so far, the front will require a little more effort. I may get started on that tonight, I've been screwing with this since 7am, and it's 3pm.

I'm tired, and it's hot out.

Here's a quickie-shot of the driver side and the beginning rust.



I used 2.5 rattle cans. Plan on using at least the rest of the can on the rear floor to increase the thickness since it's a high wear area.

Starting small, I tested the stuff on the inside of my tailgate. It had been bashed a little, this is it after I removed everything off it.



Here it is after a couple coats. Looking a lot better.



And finished, with my dirty parts put back on it. (Gotta wash it now)



So I went at it with the rest of the rig.

This is what the bed looked like after I lifted the carpet and began taking the seat belts and everything out.



Don't be afraid to use PBBlaster, Acetone or that Mxyol(sp?) will get rid of whatever residue it uses. After this bolt broke, I shot my other rear seat brackets and let them sit a bit while I worked on other things.



Prep is key, sand the living piss out of everything. I used a sanding block to great success, it really sped things up than using just sandpaper.




Acetone...or another de-greaser. Use it.



Tape off, more than I did. I got some over-spray here and there.




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post #2 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
Erik T.
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Some liner down.





Crap, I've been wanting a Tuffy for a while anyways



I removed the tailgate bolt assembly, shot the tub, than shot the bolt do-hickey-thingy that attaches to the tub.



While I did do the rails, I didn't do the rollbars and I masked them to keep them clean. (I know, neat shadow huh?)


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post #3 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
Erik T.
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More pics later, after I take a break and decide if I want to get started on the rest of the jeep.

Erik.
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post #4 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 02:08 PM
That1guy
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Looks alot better than herc does.

I'm forever grateful to Speedycat and RnEmOvr for their generosity
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post #5 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 02:12 PM
frontlinedude
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do you prefer the duplicolor or the herculiner? It dosent look as "grippy" to me as the herc, but thats something that you cant really tell from a pic lol. But I am looking into doing a liner for my tub.
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post #6 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
Erik T.
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Duplicoat has more 'rubbery' texture to it, while Herculiner has a more plastic feel. Herculiner is rougher probably, but I've heard it doesn't grip as well when it's wet.

Which matters for a truck bed, not a jeep tub.

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post #7 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 02:26 PM
Danegerous
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that looks good, guy. What did the stuff cost you? I'm about to order the Raptor kit, but now I guess it's down to cost...MORE PICS!!!
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post #8 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 02:44 PM
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just fyi you may have some trouble getting your rear seatbelts to function properly after having them up like that. I have one that I still can't get to work right after herculining about a year and a half ago.
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post #9 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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I won't be putting my rear seat back in anytime soon, so I've been considering just taking them off the rollbars all together. But thanks for the heads-up, hopefully they will still work.

I worked on the rear a touch more, trying to even it out. This is as good as I seem to get it. Maybe after a washing and the loose over-spray particles come out it'll be a more even tone.



I screwed around some with taking the driver seat out. I can't get the Torx bolt to budge, even after covering it from above and underneath with PB Blaster - it's going to have to soak overnight.

Not to be daunted, I went ahead and start cleaning, sanding, degreasing, and covering to shoot the driver floorboard and the door sill.

I plan on doing the door sill to the dash on the front side, and at the rear all the way to the top of the tub. (Except the bracket where the door latches) I was just really tired and didn't feel like messing with the whole thing right than, I'll do that tomorrow afternoon maybe.

(Obviously not the work of a professional painter.)


And here's how it basically ended up.




I used an entire can on the driver floorboard and sill, because it'll see the most usage.

As for pricing, well each can was on sale at Advance for something like $7.50. I used three cans so far. I expect another full can for the passenger seat, and probably two more for under the seats, under the center console, and the rear floorboards. Maybe one can, under the console and under the seats doesn't have to go on real thick.

And the rear floorboards are so small it's kind of a joke.

So say:
-Five cans = $37.50.
-Sanding Block = $3(ish)
-Acetone(free - I had it laying around. But say $10)
-Tape(Also had that laying around. Maybe $4 a roll - one roll)

So less than 60 bucks.

However, I don't know how well the rattle-can will work compared to the brush/roll on quart/gallon cans. I don't know if it will be as thick. I put it on pretty good, but I would think using a roller/brush would put it on fairly thick, and more-so than a can.

So we'll see.

Buying the kit is $66 bucks for all the goop you need, a roller, and a brush. So it ain't bad either way.

EDIT - changed number of cans I used. I used three cans so far, I found the forth un-used when I was cleaning up. Lost count somehow.

Erik.

Last edited by Erik T.; 08-10-2008 at 06:23 PM.
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post #10 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 05:43 PM
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Looks good! I'm definately keeping an eye on this thread. Let us know how well it holds up after a little use.
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post #11 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Started unbolting the seats, the Torx bolt on the drivers side is still soaking. That thing won't budge even with a breaker bar.

Passenger seat is a mess, the tumble mechanism is crapped out so I can't tumble the seat forward to get the two rear bolts.

Did take off the rear-half of the console and yank the carpet out. It's a mess. I'll try to work on that tomorrow after work.



Thanks for the quality emergency brake D.C., a great part to get cheap on you peckerheads.




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post #12 of 50 Old 08-10-2008, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01RedTJ View Post
just fyi you may have some trouble getting your rear seatbelts to function properly after having them up like that. I have one that I still can't get to work right after herculining about a year and a half ago.

Whats wrong with the seat belt??



By the way it looks good I went the cheap way with the Duplicolor kit and love it so far.

2" 4WD Hardware Lift kit.
Rugged ridge seat covers.
Duplicolor Roll on bed liner.
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post #13 of 50 Old 08-11-2008, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
Erik T.
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Got the seats out, PB Blaster and a breaker bar came in handy.




I may start on the other side tonight, but I wanted the driver side done so I could put the seat in since it's my daily driver.

I should have planned this better for the weekend. Should have soaked those retarded torx seat bolts sooner also.

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post #14 of 50 Old 08-11-2008, 04:40 PM
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Looks pretty darn good so far. I wonder about fading though...
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post #15 of 50 Old 08-11-2008, 04:52 PM
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When you bolt those seats in, coat them with never-sieze. I take mine out every year for the annual clean-out and they come out no problem. Never sieze is wonderful stuff.

Mike

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