TJ rear shock outboard - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 64 Old 11-26-2019, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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TJ rear shock outboard

We started the outboard project yesterday. It is up on jackstands, wheels pulled, shocks and springs are out. I started cycling the axle today. Here is the first pic of the full bump both sides together.

Is this a typical contact at full bump? looks like axle could be stretched back an 1":






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post #2 of 64 Old 11-26-2019, 02:46 PM
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as long as the track bar/diff arent hitting the GTS at full bump, ya, try to center the bumpstop at full bump


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post #3 of 64 Old 11-26-2019, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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We are using poly/synergy mounts on frame and axle and 12" Fox LSC res shocks.

Poly has some really good directions to get me going in the right direction with things like how far to cut on top and bottom of frame. They recommend 1/4" to back wall on bottom and 1/2" on to back wall on top of frame, this will give a little outward angle to account for shock inward movement. The lower mounts are beefy and enclosed to protect the shock head.



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See the 26.5 number, it represents a known ride height so I will be able to center the the whole assembly to 50/50 or close to it.

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post #4 of 64 Old 11-26-2019, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
as long as the track bar/diff arent hitting the GTS at full bump, ya, try to center the bumpstop at full bump
The Savvy skid has a little more room. The PO ground the track bar for clearance. You can see the grind marks, was not much but now I have a solid 3/8" clearance at full bump (both sides). Problem is I took out the tank yesterday to make room for welding. The time I checked it was when I put the Currie springs in, now I am going back to the RE springs. Humm, should tank go in for a few test cycles?

See grind marks:

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post #5 of 64 Old 11-26-2019, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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What I will do is lengthen the upper arms. I could use a little more pinion angle anyway for the Cardon front. That should give me at least 3/8". I'll put up tank to see how it clears.

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post #6 of 64 Old 11-26-2019, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSS View Post
Humm, should tank go in for a few test cycles?
it cant hurt. that should be the biggest point of concern with moving the axle back.

side note, did you weld a piece of steel to your floor jack?


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post #7 of 64 Old 11-26-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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did you weld a piece of steel to your floor jack?
Yes, It is a 1x4x10" flat bar piece. Makes lifting flat things easy. It rarely gets used under a diff. It is often used to help line up cutting edges on heavy equip.

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post #8 of 64 Old 11-26-2019, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I moved the the axle back a little over half inch. The distance from the tank at start point was 3/4", not 3/8". Better for me!! I have a little over .25" now. The joints are tight, so if I see some rash, it means something is wearing out.

Much better:



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post #9 of 64 Old 11-27-2019, 12:58 PM
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subscribed! Good luck with the project bud.

I am planning on taking my jeep to David @ Jeep west next year to do my outboarding. Welding is one thing I can't do!

2006 LJR...the madness begins again
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post #10 of 64 Old 11-27-2019, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Some more progress. Managed to get the old mounts off and new Synergy mounts on. Overall, the Synergy parts, quality and instruction have been great. The bottom mounts are not really adjustable. BUT, they fit perfect where they needed to go. The instructions detail the install around a 12" Fox shock (coilover, 2.0, etc.) and their 31" ext and 19.1" collapsed lengths.

So far, I have not cut into the frame and already have sore arm from pumping the floor jack. I need to get my forklift into the game.

HJere is the lower mount tapped into place. Fit was near perfect. A couple of whacks with a small ball peen to squeeze the mount a tiny bit to fit my rock deformed lower control arm mounts and it was done.





The adjustments I did to move the bumpstops was worth it. Now at any part of a cycle, drop left, right. etc. the upper hits all around the lower bump pad.



Once the OE lower mounts were cut, no turning back:





Cleaned up, ready for weld of new lower mount:





Interesting, not sure if it means anything in the geometrics of arm/coil suspension, but the mounts line up exactly on the plane of the lower control arm:



All welded up and slow cooling:



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post #11 of 64 Old 11-27-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJnBC View Post
subscribed! Good luck with the project bud.

I am planning on taking my jeep to David @ Jeep west next year to do my outboarding. Welding is one thing I can't do!
A buddy of mine who is a REALLY good welder jokes often about learning from youtube. One day we were trying to figure out how to keep in short arc while using high volts. We found it on youtube!! It is not that hard to learn with all the tech we have now. I have a app called miller welds that gives me a range of parameters to start at for mig, tig, stick, etc.. Get a good Miller of Lincoln machine with digital readouts and BOB's your uncle. Worth every penny, too. You will find work to do with it!

If you are ever down at he Hammers or doing a so cal thing, stop by. I'll be an expert by the end of the week!!
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post #12 of 64 Old 11-27-2019, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
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A buddy of mine who is a REALLY good welder jokes often about learning from youtube. One day we were trying to figure out how to keep in short arc while using high volts. We found it on youtube!! It is not that hard to learn with all the tech we have now. I have a app called miller welds that gives me a range of parameters to start at for mig, tig, stick, etc.. Get a good Miller of Lincoln machine with digital readouts and BOB's your uncle. Worth every penny, too. You will find work to do with it!

If you are ever down at he Hammers or doing a so cal thing, stop by. I'll be an expert by the end of the week!!
Thanks! I figure all I would need is some instructing and some practice and I could pick it up. I just don't have the setup for it right now (Townhouse, strata bylaws). It is my plan once I get a house to buy a welder so I can build 1tons.

I will definitely take you up on the offer if I roll through Cali. We are planning a trip in 2-3 years to do the trails down there and through Oregon

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post #13 of 64 Old 11-27-2019, 09:31 PM
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Outboarding can be a nice upgrade.

Is there a reason why you did the lower first and welded it in instead of tacking it in?

Here's one Blaine (mrblaine) & I did that had a 19 1/4" compressed & 31" extended Fox shock on Savvy/Currie coils. We corrected the upper coil mounts at the same time.



As you can see - the lowers ended up in a different location compared to yours.

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post #14 of 64 Old 11-27-2019, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Outboarding can be a nice upgrade.

Is there a reason why you did the lower first and welded it in instead of tacking it in?

Here's one Blaine (mrblaine) & I did that had a 19 1/4" compressed & 31" extended Fox shock on Savvy/Currie coils. We corrected the upper coil mounts at the same time.



As you can see - the lowers ended up in a different location compared to yours.

I welded the lowers in at the same location as the pic you posted, right up against the spring perch edge. Your pic looks tilted more, as in a higher pinion agle but the location is identical.

1.25" from top of shock mount to bottom of spring perch is what I have. My compressed (max, droop one side, comp both sides, etc.) length is 19.5", this gives me a little more bump stop squeeze to full compression on these shocks. Is that enough?

The extended length is 30" With no tire on the axle. I figure the tire weight will take that up to the full 31". I may drop the top mount a 1/2" down and space the bump stop 1/2". Not sure yet. More cycles to do.

Any advice is needed and appreciated!!

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post #15 of 64 Old 11-28-2019, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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A few more details.

The current result if I put the upper mount where I intend will be 5.5 (5.75" w/pressure) up and 5.5 (6.5" with weight, guessing) down. The Currie bumpstops are captured, so the springs will not un-seat, this may come into play with the droop. The actual droop may be less. Any ideas on this?

Anyway, some pics:

I cut some track bar mount off for clearance. I will plate it for strength before I get to other side. I may take more off if the shock looks like it could get close when cycling.



Cut frame! No rust, good stuff





Hard to see in the pics but the top is cut leaving 1/2" to back frame wall and bottom is 1/4". The result is the mount leans outward



Not the first mistake, or the last I'm sure, The mount is angled too far to back. I'll grind the frame slightly and the shock tower to rotate forward about 1" at top.



That was all I could squeeze out today. It is time to finish the Christmas lights and get ready for tomorrow.I am hoping to get back at it Friday. My wife has been making noises about buying a truck (F450 or 550) on black friday. I may have to wait till Saturday to work on it again.

Everyone have a safe and Happy Thanksgiving!!

WSS

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