TJ Rear Brake Adjustment Problems Solved, Once & For All!! - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 36 Old 02-22-2014, 07:06 PM
Gordon-0
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redvett94
Your problem is you relied on generic info from the Haynes or Chiltons manuals. Get the OEM Factory manual for correct info.
Me?
I had no trouble with the adjusters. They were installed correctly, but in search of the source of my noise, this thread kept coming up. When I went to double check, I noticed the problem with the adjuster plates.
They are simply the wrong shape.
I figured I'd post a few pictures showing exactly how everything should be assembled since a picture is worth a thousand words

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post #32 of 36 Old 10-01-2015, 03:49 PM
black99
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The pictures definitely helped. 1.5 yrs later and this information is still useful. Thanks man
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post #33 of 36 Old 03-10-2016, 09:42 PM
corwood21
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Thank you for this detailed info you have provided. I'm so fed up with my e brake it's not even funny I have had to put it in first gear on hills and I've replaced shoes and spring kits four or five times in the past five years and never ending adjusting and pulling the drums off again and again.. I'm going to try your over spring technique tomorrow. I just finished another shoe and spring kit tonight on my tj and it worked great so I took it for a drive after reversing about thirty feet I tried the brake and got the same results I've been getting for awhile. Anyway I will try what you did. One of my adjuster levers always ticks loudly and the other never stays against the adjuster wheel even though I've replaced them numerous times it is the same with all the kits I've used.
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post #34 of 36 Old 03-11-2016, 06:44 AM
NotURMailman
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I got tired of cleaning muck out of the drums and bought a disc kit...

Even if installed correctly, the adjusters do not work sometimes due to people's driving style. The adjusters work when you apply your brakes reasonably hard while backing up. Some people never do that.


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equipped... And loving it!

I drive on the right side, what's wrong with you?


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It's difficult to take you seriously. It's like you're an easily perturbed autistic teenager who's drunk typing the whole time.
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post #35 of 36 Old 08-31-2016, 12:19 AM
treadhead450
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Great info, post is still going strong. I knew with the first drive of my new-to-me 2000 TJ that the brakes weren't correct. Took one look at my rear adjusters, and sure enough, they were fully compressed. This post helped me tremendously, and I could not have done it without the clear photos. Thanks so much!

For me, just a repositioning of the tension cable that hooks to the ratchet mechanism was not enough. Not only was the cable damaged from improper installation but the wire guide around which the cable was routed was misshapen and allowed too much slack. It looked fine when first reset then quickly worked loose and slack. I purchased an entire hardware kit from O'Reilly Auto for $18 for both brakes. The new wire guide fit much tighter to the shoe to the point where I could not install the cable unless I completely removed the wire guide. Also, decent pressure was placed on the new tension cable spring where it connects to the ratchet mechanism whereas before this was not the case. With the new parts installed, the ratcheting action was tight and firm. Huge difference in braking performance with adjusters that don't back off after you set them.

One thing I noticed is that the wire guides appeared to have tabs that could be folded over to prevent it from moving. Now, I have not read any manuals, but it seemed to me like the lower tab should be folded down to lock it in place on the shoe. Note that the upper tab had not been folded. I have tried to include a pic (first post on a forum ever in my life).

Anyhow, thanks for the tips, and when in doubt, spend $18 on a new hardware set!! Now I love my brakes!
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post #36 of 36 Old 08-31-2016, 12:34 AM
treadhead450
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I was just looking at my photos again and wanted to point out two things.

1) Notice how close the wire guide is to the metal part of the shoe where the friction is riveted. There is no space. My old wire guide left a ton of space here and I suspect was mostly responsible for the slack in the cable and inoperable ratcheting mechanism.

2) I believe the lower tab lock keeps the wire guide from rotating clockwise with the pressure of the cable. Clockwise rotation of the guide may cause the wire to lose tension or cause the guide to wear improperly to the point where it becomes misshapen and sloppy.

Just a guess and something to contemplate when doing your brakes.

What gets me is the room for error here as designed by Chrysler engineers. As a former shop owner, I've seen a lot of brakes and the vast majority were not this finicky. Kind of scary really for the general public who might be less adept at dealing with an emergency situation with little time to think. Moral of the story is just because they can see you doesn't mean they can stop!
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adjustment , brakes , parking brake , rear brake

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