tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 123 - JeepForum.com
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post #1831 of 1841 Old 04-19-2018, 07:49 AM
gollywomper
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My TB frame mount hits on my diff. How many people have to go shorter than stock on the arms to clear? Or should I set them to 15.75/15 to start with? Guess just make sure they are centered at full bump in the bumper cup. Just looks like it needs a lot to clear, but the axle is starting to move backwards near full bump not straight up so I think looks are deceiving.

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post #1832 of 1841 Old 04-19-2018, 10:35 AM
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That is more evidence that the axle is not located correctly both at the track bar and the arms. You will need both upper and lower adjustables.

Start with whatever measurements you want to. All you need to do is end up at the lengths your Jeep requires. Your Jeep isn't stock anymore. The stock control arm lengths are no longer relevant. Adding bump stop and changing the pinion/caster is what will determine the "correct" lengths for your Jeep.

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post #1833 of 1841 Old 04-19-2018, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
That is more evidence that the axle is not located correctly both at the track bar and the arms. You will need both upper and lower adjustables.

Start with whatever measurements you want to. All you need to do is end up at the lengths your Jeep requires. Your Jeep isn't stock anymore. The stock control arm lengths are no longer relevant. Adding bump stop and changing the pinion/caster is what will determine the "correct" lengths for your Jeep.

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Ok. I have adjustable uppers already. I am trying to find a set of lowers near by. I will start with stock lengths and recheck. Will make adjustments from there.
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post #1834 of 1841 Old 04-19-2018, 11:49 AM
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Do I center my bumps at factory bump height or with my extensions in? Once I get them set should I square my axle up then, since I know what my ride height is I should be able to set that and pinion/caster angle before I put my springs back in, correct?
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post #1835 of 1841 Old 04-19-2018, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gollywomper View Post
Do I center my bumps at factory bump height or with my extensions in? Once I get them set should I square my axle up then, since I know what my ride height is I should be able to set that and pinion/caster angle before I put my springs back in, correct?
Center the bump stop cup and axle pad at full bump with the extension in place. Assuming the amount of extension is correct, that is your new normal and everything is based on that.

Center and square the axle at ride height.

Set the pinion at ride height.

Cycle the suspension again to make their is no u joint bind or other interferences.

This is a process of fine tuning. You may need to go back and make small adjustments here and there to get things right.

I know some people have cut lengths of 3" pvc tube to mimic the springs at ride height. I just used a tape measure or put the springs in, as needed.

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post #1836 of 1841 Old 04-19-2018, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
Center the bump stop cup and axle pad at full bump with the extension in place. Assuming the amount of extension is correct, that is your new normal and everything is based on that.

Center and square the axle at ride height.

Set the pinion at ride height.

Cycle the suspension again to make their is no u joint bind or other interferences.

This is a process of fine tuning. You may need to go back and make small adjustments here and there to get things right.

I know some people have cut lengths of 3" pvc tube to mimic the springs at ride height. I just used a tape measure or put the springs in, as needed.

2003 Rubicon
New adjustable lowers will be here tomorrow. I will get started this weekend. Will post up some more pics and measurements as I go. Thanks again for your help.
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post #1837 of 1841 Old 04-21-2018, 12:33 PM
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Can the lowers be adjusted less than 15.75?
With the lowers at 15-3/4.
Uppers at 15-5/16 to set pinion angle. Still have the same contact.
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post #1838 of 1841 Old 04-21-2018, 02:00 PM
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Bump stops centered. I will still need 2-7/8 bump extensions to clear the track bar.
Lowers are 1/2 turn under 15-3/4. Uppers at 15-1/8. Which should work out. Looks like that’s what I will need to clear the 16” collapsed shocks. Just very odd my track bar won’t clear without that much bump extension.
Front end all together. The slight front DL vibe I still has is now gone, pinion -2* from DL angle. Steering might be a bit more responsive/twitchy not bad.
4” lift, arms are real close to stock length(within 1/8”).
Even with 3” of bump stop that puts me right at 5”up and 5” down travel. Which is a good combo for off roaring and high speed logging road runs.
Hopefully I will get the rear arms readjusted and shock mounts installed.
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post #1839 of 1841 Old 09-18-2018, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Keeping with the spirit of this thread...

Pics? Did you remove the coils/jounces and raise the axle to full hard bump? How much extension do you have? Which diff cover?
rc forged bars require 3" bumpstop extension and the axle needs to move forward 3/4" to clear the tie rod for lock to lock steering without rubbing the tie rod.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #1840 of 1841 Old 09-18-2018, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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So the question is, should I tweak the bar or buy adjustable lower CAs and adjust them back to stock length?
the problem with stock length is 35" tires hit the rear of the fender well at the battery/abs trays under articulation and wheel turned with a 3" bumpstop extension. any aftermarket fender you can reuse the factory inner with will not clear without a minimum of 1/2" longer links.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #1841 of 1841 Old 09-18-2018, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Metalcloak requires the least, but the heim joint on the frame side is the compromise. JKS and the Currie are the next better and best options. I believe they both require about 2" of extension.

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metal cloak requires 3" to clear the tie rods with zero rubbing. it works with zj v8 tie rods to 1 3/4" bumpstop. you can run it with 2" but the currie tie rods get smacked at full bump. add an aftermarket diff cover besides a barnett and it's out of the game. Jks and currie run out of misalignment at the frame end with a 26.5" extended shock length. JKS hits the tie rod @3" due to the more drastic bend to get around the covers, currie HD hits the diff cover.
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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