Tj flat fender marker lights - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 03-26-2018, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
Weekley23
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Tj flat fender marker lights

I was wondering if anyone has ever done flat fenders and figured out how to cut out the old wiring for the original fender and put in new side marker lights and they can work as turn signals and work as running lights? There is the one light that goes in the front of the original fender and the one that goes on the side, all I figured out is how to wire it in the wiring for the side and left the light that goes in the front in and just hanging there. And want to get rid of that.

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post #2 of 15 Old 03-27-2018, 10:10 AM
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https://www.metalcloak.com/Dual-Func...ght-p/2209.htm

Does that help?


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post #3 of 15 Old 02-14-2020, 12:55 PM
SHoppe715
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Reviving a thread that doesn't look like it ever got a good answer because I have the exact same question. I've looked at the Metalcloak marker light options and the "full" instructions they do provide on the page seem a bit vague. They sell two kits - one with 4 basic (2-wire) dot lights and another with 2 dual intensity (3-wire) dot lights. The instructions on both kits seem to tap into only one of the two original factory light sockets. The dual intensity version must be PC rated and visible enough from the side so as to not need a 2nd light facing to the side up inside the inner well like the 4-light basic kit.

The factory marker/blinker lights are a mix of those two kits. The factory front is a dual intensity marker/blinker (3 wires) that’s on dim as marker and flashes dim to bright as a turn signal. The side is a single intensity marker/blinker (2 wires) that goes from being on solid (with headlights on) to flashing on/off with the turn signal.

So here’s my question – why can’t you simply order a pair of dual intensity and a pair of single intensity button lights like the Grote models linked and then just connect directly to the existing pigtails? (1 of each on both left and right sides of jeep) Shouldn't that setup function exactly like the factory lights?

https://www.grote.com/products/49263...-marker-lights

https://www.grote.com/products/49363...-marker-lights

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Last edited by SHoppe715; 02-14-2020 at 12:58 PM. Reason: clarity
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-15-2020, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHoppe715 View Post
Reviving a thread that doesn't look like it ever got a good answer because I have the exact same question. I've looked at the Metalcloak marker light options and the "full" instructions they do provide on the page seem a bit vague. They sell two kits - one with 4 basic (2-wire) dot lights and another with 2 dual intensity (3-wire) dot lights. The instructions on both kits seem to tap into only one of the two original factory light sockets. The dual intensity version must be PC rated and visible enough from the side so as to not need a 2nd light facing to the side up inside the inner well like the 4-light basic kit.

The factory marker/blinker lights are a mix of those two kits. The factory front is a dual intensity marker/blinker (3 wires) that’s on dim as marker and flashes dim to bright as a turn signal. The side is a single intensity marker/blinker (2 wires) that goes from being on solid (with headlights on) to flashing on/off with the turn signal.

So here’s my question – why can’t you simply order a pair of dual intensity and a pair of single intensity button lights like the Grote models linked and then just connect directly to the existing pigtails? (1 of each on both left and right sides of jeep) Shouldn't that setup function exactly like the factory lights?

http://www.grote.com/products/49263-...-marker-lights

http://www.grote.com/products/49363-...-marker-lights
I’ve had the exact same questions myself. I feel like there is a part of the equation I must be missing...

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post #5 of 15 Old 02-15-2020, 06:37 PM
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I looked at both sets of instructions & neither is very clear. Also, the wire colors do not necessarily match depending on what year you have. And on all TJ years the left & right signal wires are different colors which is not addressed in the instructions.

Actually it looks like you could use 2 sets of dual intensity LEDs, one set for the fronts & the other for the sides if you want them. The set of 4 singles are not going to get you what you want. With those you end up with one parking (called marker) & one signal LED per side.* With 2 duals per side you should have park & signal on both front & side.

If you go with one dual set for the front & 2 singles as you asked about you will only have either marker OR signals on the sides depending on which circuit you tap into. Not necessarily bad with marker only as many other vehicles are set up that way. It’s just not the exact factory setup you want.

* From their instructions for the singles:

We recommend that you wire the front LED
Light as your marker light, and the LED on the
Inner Fender Well as your blinker. However, if
you prefer the reverse, simply switch the
wires in the steps above.”

With their recommendation you would not have a turn signal on the front.
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post #6 of 15 Old 02-15-2020, 07:44 PM
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i am wondering about this myself. i want to install some flat fenders soon myself
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post #7 of 15 Old 02-16-2020, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
[FONT=&quot]

* From their instructions for the singles:

ďWe recommend that you wire the front LED
Light as your marker light, and the LED on the
Inner Fender Well as your blinker. However, if
you prefer the reverse, simply switch the
wires in the steps above.Ē

With their recommendation you would not have a turn signal on the front.
I could be wrong, but donít both bulbs flash? Yes one stays on as the marker, but Iím pretty sure both flash when signaling. At least this is what I recall when fooling with my lights on my 97.
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post #8 of 15 Old 02-16-2020, 09:53 AM
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https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...ed+turn+marker

I put one up in the inner fender and it glows good when the turn signal on too. Looks brighter and can be seen from side.



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post #9 of 15 Old 02-16-2020, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
I could be wrong, but don’t both bulbs flash? Yes one stays on as the marker, but I’m pretty sure both flash when signaling. At least this is what I recall when fooling with my lights on my 97.
Yes, both flash. With headlights on, the side-facing light flashes on/off when you hit the turn signal. The front-facing alternates bright/dim.

I guess it’s like many other questions I’ve had over the years....there’s more than one way to skin a cat so I’ll just play with it and post my results. It just seems to me there’s a way to get a pair of 3/4” dot lights to behave exactly like the factory setup but that’s something I haven’t seen with anything sold along with Jeep flat fenders of any kind. Those Grote dot lights are pretty cheap so it’s not like it’ll be an expensive experiment....

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post #10 of 15 Old 02-16-2020, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHoppe715 View Post
I guess itís like many other questions Iíve had over the years....thereís more than one way to skin a cat so Iíll just play with it and post my results.

I understand that. I'm still using your great idea of the GM flapper valve hose to avoid the fuel spit back without dropping the tank.

Now back to the LEDs


It can be done with a 2 wire LED on the side & presumably on the front too using some added hardware & wiring. Here is a link both explaining the OEM method & the LED setup needed.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/th...s-1163153.html
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post #11 of 15 Old 02-16-2020, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post

I understand that. I'm still using your great idea of the GM flapper valve hose to avoid the fuel spit back without dropping the tank.

Now back to the LEDs


It can be done with a 2 wire LED on the side & presumably on the front too using some added hardware & wiring. Here is a link both explaining the OEM method & the LED setup needed.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/th...s-1163153.html
I’m glad it’s working for you!! I‘ve actually got both now. The GM hose is still in, but when the LJ went to the body shop for getting rear-ended they had to drop the tank and let me in the shop to pop out and fix the plunger valve.

That thread you linked is hilarious!! The first post laid out clearly and concisely how the front ambers work together....and then here comes 7 pages of “well what if I did it this way???...???.” 🤣😂🤣

Thanks for the link, though. Now that I understand why the factory lights work the way they do, it’ll be simple enough to get what I want out of LEDs. As much as my OCD personality traits would very much like 2 LEDs to act exactly like the factory incandescent bulbs, I’d rather KISS and just wire in two dual intensity LEDs on each side and let them both do the exact same thing....one to the front and one to the side.

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post #12 of 15 Old 02-16-2020, 03:56 PM
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I’m also considering simply going with a set of these facing forward and calling it a day since they’re clearly visible from the side. I’ll be getting Metalcloak fenders (please no haters...plenty of other threads for that...I’m making my own bed....) and I’m thinking I could cut that big M logo out of the front gusset and just pop this guy in that hole. (I hate flashing brand names, logos, stickers, what-have-you, so that’ll also get two birds stoned at once. Lol...if stickers and logos are your thing, more power to ya, it’s just not mine.)

I got time to decide everything....looking to start building this fall.

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post #13 of 15 Old 02-17-2020, 04:39 AM
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Here are a couple of tips that may help.

1. For the front-facing turn signal/running light, any single function LED can be turned into a 2 function (dim and bright) with a resistor and 2 diodes:






2. The polarity to the factory TJ side marker alternates depending on whether the headlights are on or not. To make a single function LED work with either polarity, a bridge rectifier can be used (I did this drawing when Radio Shack was still in business so it includes a Radio Shack part number for the bridge rectifier)





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post #14 of 15 Old 02-17-2020, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jscherb View Post
2. The polarity to the factory TJ side marker alternates depending on whether the headlights are on or not. To make a single function LED work with either polarity, a bridge rectifier can be used (I did this drawing when Radio Shack was still in business so it includes a Radio Shack part number for the bridge rectifier)
That helps a lot! Thanks!

Without the Radio Shack part, would this one be the same thing? ...and it’s waterproof with mounting tabs too.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...r-module/1725/

My guess is the dual intensity Grote light with the plastic thingamajig that takes the black and red wires down to the single yellow is exactly what your diagram shows - a resistor and diodes.

So tell me if this makes sense - I’m thinking that Grote oval dual intensity marker/flasher in the gusset on the Metalcloak fenders where the big “M” logo is and then a 3/4” single intensity dot light in the inner fender well in the provided hole. Adding in the bridge rectifier for the side, I could simply cut off the factory light sockets and hook those up to the 5 factory wires?

One thing I don’t like about the Metalcloak light instructions is the whole leaving one of the two light sockets attached and unused.
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post #15 of 15 Old 02-17-2020, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHoppe715 View Post
That helps a lot! Thanks!

Without the Radio Shack part, would this one be the same thing? ...and itís waterproof with mounting tabs too.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...r-module/1725/

My guess is the dual intensity Grote light with the plastic thingamajig that takes the black and red wires down to the single yellow is exactly what your diagram shows - a resistor and diodes.

So tell me if this makes sense - Iím thinking that Grote oval dual intensity marker/flasher in the gusset on the Metalcloak fenders where the big ďMĒ logo is and then a 3/4Ē single intensity dot light in the inner fender well in the provided hole. Adding in the bridge rectifier for the side, I could simply cut off the factory light sockets and hook those up to the 5 factory wires?

One thing I donít like about the Metalcloak light instructions is the whole leaving one of the two light sockets attached and unused.

That looks like a bridge rectifier in a big package to make it expensive, even though Radio Shack doesn't exist anymore there are lots of places to get bridge rectifiers, like ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ECG-5330-Br...gAAOSwg1JcQ8X9. But you certainly can use the device you linked to, you'll need one of those or one bridge rectifier for each side.



I don't know anything about Metalcloak fenders so I can't answer your other question.

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