Things i learned while installing my Poly Performance sport cage - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-22-2012, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
windkn0t
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Things i learned while installing my Poly Performance sport cage

Finally got it all buttoned up. Just wanted to post a few things for anyone else that installs this kit.

overall, the poly kit is a great kit and the guys at polyperformance are great, but for the novice, the instructions on this kitleave something to be desired.

First thing, the template provided is accurate, but it is generous in it's cut. trim slowly

The floor plates. The directions have you mounting them as a rectangle going across the floor left to right. This leaves a large gap under the floor plate and the floor board on newer TJ's. I ended up mounting mine length wise. I lined up on the flat spot just before the floor drain and positioned the long edge as close to the side of the rocker as possivle without creating any gap under the floor plate. This lined the leading edge of the top part of the plate up right before the floor board starts its angle up. This gave me no gap

Do not drill the floor plate holes first. Use straps to tie all your cage components together first then tack up the A pillar to the floor plates and to the B pillar. Also, i did not tack my A pillars to the middle of the plate. I eneded up using straps and pulled them as close to the sided of the jeep as possible while still leaving a little bit on the plate to run a bead on the backside. This gave me a better fit and also more leg room.

A pillars. When putting the slugs in, if you plan on rosette welding both the top and bottom A pillar sections, drill all holes before installing them in the jeep (duh). Also, i measured down from the lip on both the top and bottom 1-3/8's and this was enough room to still catch metal even with a 1/4 inch gap between tubes (more on the gap later)

After you have the A pillars tacked up (top and bottom, floor plate, and to B pillar) position A spreader, Windsheild bar (higher than needed to allow proper fit but keep it out of the way) and A to B spreaders and secure with straps.

Find the center of the A spreader / B pillar and mark it then measure 4 inches to either side to place your A to B spreaders and mark their location.

Put your windshield surrounds on and raise your windshield to check and trim surrounds for clearance. (used 1 inch drum sander on a die grinder to carve surround to fit new bars) also if you are using door surrounds, this is the time to fit them to ensure they mate properly in the windshield seal slot.

I put on my surrounds and raised my windshield. This is where i descovered that i needed 1/4 inch gap in my A pillar posts for my windshield mounting plates to mate to the A pillar, and my door surrounds to fit into their slots. I also discovered that my door surrounds in their proper location, would not fit due to both the A pillar spreader and the grab handles. I used my die grinder and carved the forward plastic mount to fit around the A pillar spreader, then i had to adjust the grab handle mount position so that it straddled the forward mount. One i did all of this, i used a transfer punch and marked the hole positions and then i drilled ONLY after i double checked that my doors closed properly.

Check and double check all measurements and level. When satisfied, mine was not perfect, tack weld all joints.


Back cage.....


The instructions here are for an LJ. Noting this, they give the wrong pipe center measurement for the B to C spreader bars. They state 8.5 inches, it should be 8 inches on center to match your front bars.

Be aware that if you have a hard top, the back C pillar spreader will hit your wiper cover. Your options here are to either shorten the B to C spreders and move things in, OR you can remove the cover completly. I opted to trim off about 6 inches of the cover and reinstall. functional, looks OK untill you open your glass. Not a big deal, just be aware.

__________________________________________________ _______________


If i had to do this all over again, i would completely remove the dash first. I think that if i would have done this, i would have allowed me to custom fit my dash hole to my cage and also allow me to better square things up a bit.


Also note that on the drivers side, the fit of the A pillar is sort of tight. You will have to shoe horn it to the side of the air duct and also, on the newer TJ's there is a large bundle of wires in position that makes fitment tough. I am stil comtemplating if i am going to try and re route these wires or leave them where they are. The cage is pressing against them and my fear is that over time, the inusulation will wear thin and cause a short. When i remove my dash to take my cage out for paint, i will give a closer look and decide what to do then.

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post #2 of 11 Old 01-22-2012, 01:42 PM
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sooooooooooooo how bout some pics?
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-22-2012, 01:49 PM
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lots of pics so we can see it
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-22-2012, 02:34 PM
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Yes, pics please...

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post #5 of 11 Old 01-22-2012, 05:18 PM
BobA
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Kinda useless with no pic's

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post #6 of 11 Old 01-22-2012, 05:22 PM
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-22-2012, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
windkn0t
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hard top is on right now, but here are a few highlighting a few points. When i remove the hard top and i will snap a few more showing door surround placement.

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post #8 of 11 Old 01-23-2012, 08:03 AM
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Looks good so far, anxious to see more pics.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-29-2012, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
windkn0t
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A few more shots.

Instead of cutting my wiper cover, i decided that i would move the C pillar spreader in about 2.5 to 3 inches. This not only allowed me to use the full size cover, it also made a very small amount of head room and it eased the fit of my soft top.
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-29-2012, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
windkn0t
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I had the dash and cage out for powder coating, so i thought i would snap a few pics of the wire loom that gets pinch on the drivers side. The first shows the loom in it original location, the others show that you have room to either move it to the side, or loop it around the down tub.

Once i get my cage back, i will decide which.
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post #11 of 11 Old 01-29-2012, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
windkn0t
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Alright, these pics show how to remove the pins from the speaker pod connectors.

1st, remove the grey lock by using and awl or other pointed tool to depress the tab and push it out.

Then, use either a dental pic or another slim pointed tool to probe the lock and release the wire.

Then, you can snake the wire harness through the roll bar. Open the existing hole in the roll bar to 3/8's and everything will fit
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