T-Case adjustment - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
threeb
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T-Case adjustment

1.25" body lift. After body lift the LJ started popping out of 4-low, so I installed the drop bracket for the linkage. Adjusted (per recommendations stated from FSM), that didn't help. I then read the adjustment procedure from the FSM, and readjusted, still pops out of 4-low.

I'm engaging 4-low, verifying the t-case is in 4-low, loosening the collar nut, pushing it toward the front of jeep and retightening.


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post #2 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 12:37 PM
NotURMailman
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Any wear on the shifter linkage bushings?
A good permanent fix, if you want to spend the scratch, would be a cable shifter.


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post #3 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 12:40 PM
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This may have nothing to do with your issue, but might be worth looking at...

I ran into an issue (no BL, etc) where my shifter would bounce a bit when I hit bumps and discovered it was due to worn out trans-mount that was allowing movement on the drive line. I have a kit that links the shifter directly to the transfer case and no longer relies on the body, however in 4LOW the shifter has no more movement (pulling up)... and that limit was enough to cause "downward" movement when I hit a bump just right to cause the linkage to shift the t-case into Neutral by means of slipping into N. After I replaced the trans-mount, issue went away.

But if your linkage is still relying on the body, it can be a real challenge sometimes to get the adjustment right, where it's not holding the lever on the edge of engagement. I switched to a bodyless linkage after fighting that battle for some time.
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post #4 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 12:47 PM
Alaska-HWY JK
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I did a JKS 1.25" BL and 1" MML at the same time and no adjustment was needed. I've since put Savvy's cable shifter in though.
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post #5 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK View Post
I did a JKS 1.25" BL and 1" MML at the same time and no adjustment was needed. I've since put Savvy's cable shifter in though.
Who ever thunk of attaching the shift linkage to the body should have had their paycheck docked for a month.
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post #6 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 12:59 PM
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I just installed a 1.25" BL and there is no t case shifting problems without installing the bracket. The angle wouldn't cause that, even without adjusting it. Do you have a t case drop too?
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post #7 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotURMailman
Any wear on the shifter linkage bushings? A good permanent fix, if you want to spend the scratch, would be a cable shifter.
Nothing I've noticed, I guess I'll need to get someone to shift it for me while I watch. Yes I was looking at shifters... But I'm needing rear suspension stuff at the moment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK
I did a JKS 1.25" BL and 1" MML at the same time and no adjustment was needed. I've since put Savvy's cable shifter in though.
I do have a jks motor mount a waiting installation. I guess that might be on the short list, this week or next.

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post #8 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
Who ever thunk of attaching the shift linkage to the body should have had their paycheck docked for a month.
It worked perfectly fine for my 14 Jeeps, when adjusted correctly.
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post #9 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman
I just installed a 1.25" BL and there is no t case shifting problems without installing the bracket. The angle wouldn't cause that, even without adjusting it. Do you have a t case drop too?
I didn't have any issues on my last tj either. No drop, but do have a 2.75" SL.

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post #10 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threeb View Post
I didn't have any issues on my last tj either. No drop, but do have a 2.75" SL.
The SL doesn't matter. Check the angles and the linkage. I never use the drop bracket, unless I have a t case drop too. It's angled slightly, but doesn't effect the shifting at all.
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post #11 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman
The SL doesn't matter. Check the angles and the linkage. I never use the drop bracket, unless I have a t case drop too. It's angled slightly, but doesn't effect the shifting at all.
They send the drop with the bl, it worked until I got it into a in to a bind then started popping out. I had thrown the thing away and decided to order another one because I couldn't get it adjusted to work. I guess I gotta work on my adjusting.

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post #12 of 18 Old 05-05-2016, 04:59 PM
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When you do your adjusting make sure the T case is all the way in 4L and that the shifter is in 4L position, but not completely up against the edge of the bezel. This will ensure that the travel in the shifter is enough to engage 4L.
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post #13 of 18 Old 05-06-2016, 02:17 AM
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My NP231 has 5 shift positions and I'm still using the original OEM shift mounting brackets and linkage.


This is with a MML, BL and a Belly Up. I did modify the transmission mount, it shifts just fine for me...
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post #14 of 18 Old 05-06-2016, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
Who ever thunk of attaching the shift linkage to the body should have had their paycheck docked for a month.
If anything they probably got a raise. When you think about it, the body doesn't move and the shift lever is attached to the body so why would that be a bad thing?


Chrysler is only concerned with how it ships from the factory, not whether the owner is going to end up doing a body lift which is an aftermarket modification.
(that said they went cable for the JK)

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post #15 of 18 Old 05-16-2016, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Update. The bolt heads on drop bracket were interfering with the linkage and not letting the transfer case fully engage in 4low. I removed bracket and readjusted (with an extra hand this time) and all is back to normal. Should have slowed down the first and I wouldn't have spent $15 on the drop bracket (I tossed the one that came with the BL).

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