SYE. Please help. Speedo gear. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-14-2012, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
wrangler2
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SYE. Please help. Speedo gear.

Have 02' jeep wrangler tj. With 4" lift on 33's with slip yoke eliminator and ext rear drive shaft.

All but one thing works great! My speedo gear will not catch the drive gear. I've tried seating it multiple times and had 2 mechanics look at it. But for some reason it won't catch. One time I fumbled with it I got it in a drove and the speedometer (in vehicle) would jump! Up then drop down continuously. (uh oh) sure enough pulled it out and the speedo gear tip got lightly mangled. So I ordered a new speedo gear but it will not seat. Any ideas?

I have deq inspection to do but I can't do it until all engine codes are cleared and speedo sensor is throwing a code.

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post #2 of 9 Old 09-14-2012, 02:58 PM
biffgnar
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You have to rotate the speedo assembly in the tail housing. There should actually be number ranges printed on the assembly and you clock it to the range for the gear you put on.
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-14-2012, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
You have to rotate the speedo assembly in the tail housing. There should actually be number ranges printed on the assembly and you clock it to the range for the gear you put on.
You are correct as usual, but to clarify, most aftermarket tail cones do not have the raised dot at the 6 o'clock position that you use to line up the number range on the side of the sensor housing.

For the OP, identify the gear by the number of teeth is has, there are 4 positions the sensor can be installed in. Find the range of numbers on the side of the housing that match the gear and that goes straight down or at 6 o'clock.

Insert the sensor housing into the hole and do the final alignment with the tension fork. It has two flat prongs at 90 degrees that will fit into slots in the top surface of the sensor. Stick the prongs into the slots and use them to turn the housing slightly to line up the small bolt that holds the fork down.

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post #4 of 9 Old 09-15-2012, 03:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you. Will try again and report back!
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-15-2012, 06:08 AM
Richisinyoface
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Garage
I just went through the same thing

Just Empty Every Pocket.......yup they are empty all right.................

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post #6 of 9 Old 09-15-2012, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Works! Thank you!
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-28-2014, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
You are correct as usual, but to clarify, most aftermarket tail cones do not have the raised dot at the 6 o'clock position that you use to line up the number range on the side of the sensor housing.

For the OP, identify the gear by the number of teeth is has, there are 4 positions the sensor can be installed in. Find the range of numbers on the side of the housing that match the gear and that goes straight down or at 6 o'clock.

Insert the sensor housing into the hole and do the final alignment with the tension fork. It has two flat prongs at 90 degrees that will fit into slots in the top surface of the sensor. Stick the prongs into the slots and use them to turn the housing slightly to line up the small bolt that holds the fork down.
Should the housing fit flush against the transfer case when pushing it in by hand? Mine doesn't, even with lots of force. I just shear the o ring. ??
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-28-2014, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeeper69 View Post
Should the housing fit flush against the transfer case when pushing it in by hand? Mine doesn't, even with lots of force. I just shear the o ring. ??
Yes, the o-ring will pop into the bore and the housing will fit flush. If you try to force it in without it clocked correctly, the gear will force it off kilter a bit and cause problems.

Also, it doesn't hurt a thing to lube up the o-ring. if you've already shaved some off, RTV is a wonderful solution.

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post #9 of 9 Old 07-28-2014, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Yes, the o-ring will pop into the bore and the housing will fit flush. If you try to force it in without it clocked correctly, the gear will force it off kilter a bit and cause problems.

Also, it doesn't hurt a thing to lube up the o-ring. if you've already shaved some off, RTV is a wonderful solution.
I dip my finger into the t-case to get some atf and rub it on the o-ring if that's what you mean to lube it. I can't seem to clock it correctly into position. Each time I try to pull it back out of the transfer case to realign the housing, the speedo gear pops off and I need to pull it out of the t-case with pliers. Hmmm. I've watched two different videos on Youtube showing how to do the speedo gear change. I feel stupid!

Also, in regards to the rtv, would I just apply it to the edge of the speedo gear housing? The surface of the housing that fits flush to the t-case?

Thank you, sir.
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