switch to synthetic oil - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
sbaird95
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switch to synthetic oil

Thinking of switching to mobil 1 synthetic oil in my 2.5L at 110,000 miles... any reason i shouldnt? or reasons i should?

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post #2 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 09:18 AM
Malebolgia
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I run Mobil 1 10w40 in mine and I am at 224,000 with no issues. It is more expensive but well worth it in my opinion.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 09:20 AM
biffgnar
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My RMS seeps faster if I run synthetic instead of dino at 131K miles.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 09:23 AM
PhulesAu
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Should have switched at 100 miles. you'll gain nothing now, and will probably develop new leaks.
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 09:31 AM
bail315
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In my experience synthetic tends to exploit any leaks. At 110,000k I don’t think switching to synthetic now would give you any noticeable benefits to justify the cost. If you just have extra money to spend, stick with conventional oil and change it twice as often.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 11:19 AM
Gary2
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I did for a bit and found a drip of oil under the Jeep . I switched to Valvoline VR-1 and no more drips plus it is a better oil from what I understand for our old style engine which has different requirments for Zinc I think it was.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 11:31 AM
JeffBowser
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I switch between synthetic and non-synthetic all the time. Back and forth, back and forth, depending on sales, and if I'm able to do it myself at the time or not. It's not that critical. As for leaks, I keep my seals in repair, I do not have leaks.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 11:43 AM
rjacobs
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Leaks when switching from conventional to synthetic might have happened when engines had cork gaskets. Last time I checked there were no cork gaskets used on "newer" engines of which I am sure the ones in the TJ are "newer". If you had an oil leak or "developed" an oil leak after switching to synthetic, it wasnt the change in oil. The seals have no clue what they are sealing from, it could be water and they would still do their job.

If you want a high zinc content oil there are a couple most notably the Amsoil Z-Rod oil which has a high ZDDP(zinc) content at around 1350PPM zinc. Rotela T is also another high zinc content oil at around 1200PPM.

I switched my TJ over to Amsoil OE series at 110k miles, although to be fair I have no clue what it had in it before. I wouldnt run Mobil 1 though especially when you get get the lower end Amsoil OE for the same or less cost than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 just isnt what its advertised to be anymore.
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 11:45 AM
TJJP77
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I'd personally just go with the Valvoline VR-1 if you are looking for a better oil that is ideally suited for our engines. I'm running it and couldn't be happier.

Chris
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 12:04 PM
Necko2529
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I switched to M1 10W30 Synthetic at 50K miles and had no leaks, now at 90K still no leaks and it runs great.

Rokmen TT, Rokmen control arms, Novak NV241 cable shifter, JKS 1.25" BL + 1" MML.

Anybody can take advice if it doesn't interfere with their plan.

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post #11 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 12:12 PM
06HardtopX
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The reason leaks tend to develop when switching to synthetic oil at high mileage is due to the cleaning action of synthetic oil. Regular oil will tend to coke up when not changed often enough. Usually the evidence of this is apparent from the black sludge you can see when you look down into the valve cover with the oil fill cap off. These deposits are also found behind rubber seals like crank seals and cam seals and can prevent a leak from an otherwise worn seal. Synthetic oil will remove these deposits after about two oil changes and that's how a leak develops. If your seals are in good shape, or if the dino oil was changed properly to begin with this shouldn't be a problem.
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-13-2013, 02:17 PM
Tjosh97
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I will have to try that VR-1, I'm coming up with the part # vv205

http://www.jegs.com/i/Valvoline-Raci...oductId=761749

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