Super 35 or Built Axle - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 39 Old 05-08-2020, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
Tymeks
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Super 35 or Built Axle

Hello,

1st time post here. Finally pulled the trigger on a base ‘06 TJ. It needs some love. I’m a shade tree mechanic without issue but my question is this. The rig needs to be regeared along with a bunch of other stuff. I figured since the fluid needs changing, and the seals need changing, mine as well do it right.

This will not be a rock crawler, it will be a light trail at most with the family type of rig.

So the question is this.

Doing it right, do I swap in a Super 35 or a built axle from G2 or Currie or something like that.

The question is more geared towards the labor part of it. I don’t feel like I’ll be able to set the pre-load or complete the regearing myself so I’ll want that done by a shop. But I would have no issue dropping an axle and replacing it with a built one already.

So since, I’ll have to pay for labor on the Super 35 but not on the built axle, am I better off just swapping in the axle?

It currently only has a 1 inch body lift on it, but I do plan on lifting it more to put 33’s or 35’s on it. But for sure, just light camping trails is all it’ll probably see.

Lastly, since this is not going to be a rock crawler of any kind, what’s the most effective diff for me?

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post #2 of 39 Old 05-08-2020, 01:33 PM
sycboi
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Trail use and light off-road I would think a Super 35 setup should last you the life of the Jeep. 33s won’t be a problem at all. An aftermarket differential will end up costing way more than setting up what you have...

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post #3 of 39 Old 05-08-2020, 03:03 PM
Wheelin98TJ
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A Super 35 would work for you. Cost will end up being around $2k including the regear and install.

You could try to find a used Dana 44, but it's not easy and they're not cheap. Here is one for $1,200:

https://daveysjeeps.com/parts/produc...ar-axle-3.73/?

Personally I wouldn't pay $1,200 for a stock TJ D44. You'll spend another $800-1,000 regearing it. That puts you at S35 cost, but without a locker.

If you could find a Rubi axle with a working locker for say around $1,200, that wouldn't be a bad deal.
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post #4 of 39 Old 05-08-2020, 04:52 PM
fxrsliberty
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A bunch of people are about to tell you about the 8.8 it's a waste of your time and you don't sound like you want to weld, re-gear or spend 100$ extra. The Super 35 will do everything you want and 35s aren't out of the question. If you can, drop the axle off at shop just for the re-gear and carrier upgrade. A lot of them charge less if your not taking up a lift. I tried to upload my Jeep pics as evidence that I've done this but they are v to big...

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post #5 of 39 Old 05-08-2020, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
Tymeks
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Thatís actually a fantastic idea to keep the costs down. Thank you for that. Not really sure why i didnít think of that before. Thatís what Iíll do, Iíll drop the axle myself and pay a shop to regear it for me. Teamwork makes the dreamwork!! Thanks again.
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post #6 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 07:58 AM
rikkards
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxrsliberty View Post
A bunch of people are about to tell you about the 8.8 it's a waste of your time and you don't sound like you want to weld, re-gear or spend 100$ extra. The Super 35 will do everything you want and 35s aren't out of the question. If you can, drop the axle off at shop just for the re-gear and carrier upgrade. A lot of them charge less if your not taking up a lift. I tried to upload my Jeep pics as evidence that I've done this but they are v to big...

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X2, and I can say that since I have an 8.8. There is a good sense of security in the fact that I don't need to worry about breaking anything with what I have but when I did it the S35 wasn't available and if I was going to do it now I would have gone that route

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post #7 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 10:39 AM
TheBoogieman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikkards View Post
X2, and I can say that since I have an 8.8. There is a good sense of security in the fact that I don't need to worry about breaking anything with what I have but when I did it the S35 wasn't available and if I was going to do it now I would have gone that route
Damn, your Jeep is old! I think the S35 was available in 01'? The HP 30 and 8.25 on my XJ seem to hold up very well with upgraded shafts. I could have got a lot of free 8.8 axles years ago. My buddy loved his Ford ExPloders and the transmissions went bad way before the rear axles ever had a problem.

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GOT IT BACK on 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
SOLD 99' XJ /4.0L-AW4/ 5.5" lift / 33" DC tires.
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post #8 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
Tymeks
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My plan at this point is to drop the axles and drop them off at a shop to be regeared.
With that being said, what’s a fair price I should expect to pay a shop for labor to install the new gears and E-Locker?
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post #9 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 12:53 PM
NashvilleTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tymeks View Post
My plan at this point is to drop the axles and drop them off at a shop to be regeared.
With that being said, whatís a fair price I should expect to pay a shop for labor to install the new gears and E-Locker?


Are you planning to do the super 35?

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post #10 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 01:34 PM
Stumptown
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Call your shop and ask them if it makes a difference to them if the axles are out or not. I know when I regeared, it was the same price. Now I wished I would have ponied up and payed for the lockers at the same time...
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post #11 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 01:43 PM
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I would not pull axles to have them regeared unless I had gotten a quote stating that it is significantly cheaper over leaving them in the Jeep. It is not easy to remove and reinstall them. It's not rocket science, but it is quite a bit of work. It's worse if you've never done it or if none of the bolts have been touched since the Jeep was built.

Maybe I'm wrong, but it doesn't seem like you have done much reading and considered all of your options.

Camping trails don't require much more than stock. 31's and an auto locker up front go a long way. Locking the D35 without upgrading axle shafts is generally considered unwise. There are other things to be considered when going to 35's.

I would guess $2000 for one Eaton E-locker and both gear sets installed.

97 TJ sport.
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post #12 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
Tymeks
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Iíve been doing a bunch of reading but for sure, Iím new to the Jeep world. Iíve built race cars a plenty in the past but am quickly learning that it doesnít translate much to the Jeep world. :/ But thatís ok, I enjoy wrenching and building.

My plan is to do a super35 with upgraded axles and a locker in the rear, regearing both the front and the back at the same time. Current gearing is the stock 3.07ís. So I was going to fit in some 4.56ís. Does that sound about right? If matching the gearing upfront, do I need to put a locker in there as well?

That seems to be the most cost effective way of building it right without wanting to build a rock crawler.
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post #13 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 02:07 PM
bobjp
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None of that sounds bad depending on what else you plan to do. Tire size and transmission type drive many other changes including gear choice. It doesn't sound like you've nailed down the tire size and maybe not considered the other things required for that particular size including the gearing, lift, steering, and brakes.

What transmission do you have? There are a lot of documented opinions out there about the appropriate gear for a particular tire size and transmission.

Choose a tire size and lift height, and then go from there.

No, a front locker is not required to match the rear. I would install one, but I also do more than camping trails.

97 TJ sport.
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post #14 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
Tymeks
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I have the 6 speed trans. So I figured with the 6th gear overdrive I wouldnít need anything smaller than 4.56ís. Itís really the wifeís Jeep so for sure, highway gearing is still important. So I figured a compromise was 4.56ís. Is that about right?

I plan on doing a 3 inch lift ( I started a separate thread on that ). As well, I plan on 33ís. I was thinking 35ís because......well, itís cooler to say I have 35ís, lol. But in reality 33ís will look good and get the job done.....light camping trails.
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post #15 of 39 Old 05-09-2020, 02:24 PM
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Sorry, didn't notice, but stick or auto? If auto, go as deep as you can. I have 5.13's and wish I was lower. But that is a new front axle, and I don't want to do that.

You think you are building a soft camping vehicle. You are not. You will buy incremental upgrades as you thing you need them, and spend a ton of money in the process. Just rip the band-aid and go big. Lift, gears, lockers maybe if you are just camping. If you aren't rock crawling and mudding, that front axle is just fine.

And as a mild family rig? Stock is perfectly fine. Define your real usage, and build to that. Not a rock crawler, fine. Not a mudder, fine. Precious cargo inside? My first mod would be a cage to keep them safe.

I came from the racing world also. The jeep stuff is surprising cheap in comparison. Just having a set of tires that I can take off road more than once is awesome!
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