Steering wheel shakes at 40 MPH - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
maxum3300
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Steering wheel shakes at 40 MPH

Hello all, I replaced my used BFG 315/74-16 KM MT's on Saturday with brand new Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ's. The jeep drives and rides so much better now. Problem is I still get a vibration at about 40-50 MPH that causes the steering wheel to shake. Not Death Wobble though. With the old BFG's it would sometimes develop into death wobble. About a week ago I replaced the stock steering stabilizer with a RC 2.2 performance stabilizer and since the tires are new they are freshly balanced. Any ideas what may be causing this? Thanks.

BTW the BFG MT's are for sale if anyone needs some spares or may already have one or but need a couple more to make a good set. I would like to sell all 4 as a set for $200 with it known that one of the tires will not hold air and need to be pumped up every few days thats why i am mainly focus my attention to someone who may already have one or 2. Even though all 4 have about 1/2 the tread life left.

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post #2 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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I meant my tire size is 315/75-16, not 74. Typo.
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post #3 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:08 PM
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Have your tires balanced. Try to use a high-speed balancer. They usually yield better finer results.
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post #4 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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The tires were just balanced Saturday. They are brand new tires.
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post #5 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:18 PM
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It's tire balance man. Have them road force balanced. Just because they were balanced doesn't mean they were done right. Get 'em ROAD FORCE balanced.

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post #6 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:26 PM
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Just curious... i think this will benefit this thread. What is the difference between road force balancing and conventional balancing?
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post #7 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:29 PM
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Road force balancing does just that.....applies a significant amount of weight to the thread. The machine is also very accurate and can detect very small discrepancies in the tire and wheel. The process takes into account the tire and wheel and mounts them in such a way that the high and low spots are countered by each other....then the assembly is spun and balanced. If done right, it should take the guy doing a couple hours to get all of them balanced since he will have to be mounting, dismounting, and remounting to get the wheel and tire aligned correctly.

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post #8 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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I was just typing that very question when I saw you already asked it. Also are there any national chains that does road force balance? One of the shops that priced my tires recommended bead balancing which is beads that go inside the tire through the valve stem and centrifugal force as the tire spins forces the beads into the low spots of the tire. Any thoughts on that?
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post #9 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:36 PM
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Also check the torque on your lugs..... 100ftlbs, star pattern. Do it right, lotsa places that do tires (pep boys, etc.) don't do it right and you will get vibes like crazy at certain speeds.

I have read a lot about MTZ's being hard to balance properly, iirc....

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post #10 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:40 PM
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After extensive trial and error with beads, standard balancing, and road force balancing, definitely go road force. Bead balancing is a great idea and can work well, but only if your tires have virtually no lateral runout. Otherwise, they don't do squat. Discount Tire does road force balancing. I would recommend getting a lifetime road force balance plan. It won't be cheap but will be well worth it. The balance of a tire doesn't come into play until about 50mph so if you never or rarely exceed that, go beads. Hell, you can go without any media at all if 50mph is your limit. But if you drive on the highway, balance comes into play then. Larger, more aggressive tires don't stay in balance forever so that's why I would go with a lifetime plan. I've got it and will be getting mine balanced every time I rotate them, which should be done every 3k miles.

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post #11 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 12:46 PM
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Do not use beads, I always had a vibration at 45 with beads. Road force machines are often at the larger tire shops that deal with trucks and fleets.

The Actual machine is a Hunter GSP9700 here is a Website to locate one close to you. Hunter GSP9700 Wheel Vibration Control System

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post #12 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 01:07 PM
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The poor man's way to fix the problem is rotate the wheels to the rear, bring the rears to the front. I'm guessing when they balanced your tires, they put the tires taking the most weight up front. If we balance a set of tires and two take more weight than the others, we put them in the back.

There is another option as well. We can road force the tires without removing the tire from the rim. The next step would be to measure the rim on the balancer without the tire on it, but I've yet to see that done. When we road force the wheels mounted on the wheels, we can usually drop the amount of "road force" into the green without doing a true rim run out.
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post #13 of 23 Old 03-08-2010, 02:33 PM
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In addtition to what has been said about balance, Have the rims and the tires checked for true. A wheel with a flat spot or that doesn't run true, and a tire that isn't round or isn't molded 'straight' can balance 100% and still cause driving issues.

And since you had death wobble before, you more than likely still have worn components that need to be addressed. (The steering stabilizer did not cure the problem, it cannot - and it wasn't the cause in the first place.)


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post #14 of 23 Old 03-09-2010, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for all the advice and it all sounds like good suggestions but where can I get these things done? I did find a shop nearby with the Hunter GPS 9700 but where do i take my wheels and tires to have them checked for true?
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post #15 of 23 Old 03-09-2010, 04:11 PM
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They can easily do that too.
We aren't talking thousandths of an inch here. We are talking visible defect. Spin the assembly slowly, even by hand, and use a runout gauge, a laser pointer, even a pencil on a stick to find runout, out of round etc.


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