Sleeving a JK Dana 44 Rubi front axle - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 359 Old 06-15-2011, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Sleeving a JK Dana 44 Rubi front axle

If one wanted to beef up a JK Rubi 44 front and bump it up to 3" axle tubes for strength first and then secondarily, so that all the aftermarket brackets that are made for 3" tube all work better, what would be the preferred method to go about it?

Assume you have a source for high quality 3" x .250 wall DOM.

Would you split it down the middle after cutting it to length, clamp it tightly around the tube and then weld up the split?

Would you cut each side in half and attempt to hammer/slide the 3" over the two halves and have them meet in the middle?

Would you slit one side knowing that all tubing tends to spring open a bit when it's split and then cut the existing tubes in half, slide on the slit piece and weld up the slit?

Would you measure over 3.25" from the inner knuckles and diff casting and cut the tubes off to that length and then make new tubes? The new tubes would be plug welded 6 times at each juncture, and have an interference fit of .006 when pressed on.

If one were to go the latter route, what would you consider to be an appropriate length of tube engagement into the new tube knowing there will be plug welds and full circle welds where the new tube butts against the inner C and the diff casting.


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post #2 of 359 Old 06-15-2011, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
If one wanted to beef up a JK Rubi 44 front and bump it up to 3" axle tubes for strength first and then secondarily, so that all the aftermarket brackets that are made for 3" tube all work better, what would be the preferred method to go about it?

Assume you have a source for high quality 3" x .250 wall DOM.

Would you split it down the middle after cutting it to length, clamp it tightly around the tube and then weld up the split?
probably the easiest and safest way.

Quote:
Would you cut each side in half and attempt to hammer/slide the 3" over the two halves and have them meet in the middle?
not sure you could press it that far without distorting the housing.

Quote:
Would you slit one side knowing that all tubing tends to spring open a bit when it's split and then cut the existing tubes in half, slide on the slit piece and weld up the slit?
no,seems weak to me.

Quote:
Would you measure over 3.25" from the inner knuckles and diff casting and cut the tubes off to that length and then make new tubes? The new tubes would be plug welded 6 times at each juncture, and have an interference fit of .006 when pressed on.

If one were to go the latter route, what would you consider to be an appropriate length of tube engagement into the new tube knowing there will be plug welds and full circle welds where the new tube butts against the inner C and the diff casting.
acceptable.would allow for caster/pinion angle changes.
I would think 6" of tube and two rows of plug welds at each end and welded to the center section and the "c"s.


the first option would acheive your goals with the least amount of work and expense.
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post #3 of 359 Old 06-15-2011, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
...Would you measure over 3.25" from the inner knuckles and diff casting and cut the tubes off to that length and then make new tubes? The new tubes would be plug welded 6 times at each juncture, and have an interference fit of .006 when pressed on...
this sounds like the strongest, but most complicated option with having to set pinion angle and caster. im sure with a custom jig it could be done easily and fairly quickly.

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post #4 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 05:56 AM
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Would you split it down the middle after cutting it to length, clamp it tightly around the tube and then weld up the split?
The easiest way for sure. You already know this though, I'm curious to see where you're going with this.

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post #5 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 06:07 AM
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Assume you have a source for high quality 3" x .250 wall DOM.
This along with some plug welds to the original axle tubes.

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post #6 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 07:33 AM
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so the factory jk d44 has 2.5 inch diameter axle tubes?
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post #7 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 07:40 AM
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yes I know ... not assuming all you asked, but you know about this kit, right?
http://www.rockslideengineering.com/...ell-Kit/Detail
somehow I have the feeling I will get fried now
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post #8 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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so the factory jk d44 has 2.5 inch diameter axle tubes?
Why yes, yes it does.

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post #9 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jeepster83 View Post
this sounds like the strongest, but most complicated option with having to set pinion angle and caster. im sure with a custom jig it could be done easily and fairly quickly.
If I said that the front axle was being attached with a custom mid arm to run 37's and I would like to have the caster angle set after the pinion angle is done, then what would you pick?

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post #10 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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acceptable.would allow for caster/pinion angle changes.
I would think 6" of tube and two rows of plug welds at each end and welded to the center section and the "c"s.

I'm not capable in the driveway of doing 6" of tube and besides, the piece of tube needed for the driver's side is 8.375" long.

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post #11 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 10:30 AM
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I like the split down the length of the tube for two reasons:

1. It allows the 3" tube to be stretched open a bit before it goes over the axle tube...that (theoretically) should let it slide on a lot easier. I know it won't move much, but it would move some, and then you have nothing but a long weld to make...which shouldn't be that hard. Clamping it back shut should be easy as well...plenty of simple solutions for that.

2. It handily serves your goal of "strength first and then secondarily, so that all the aftermarket brackets that are made for 3" tube all work better..." with the least work. Overall, it seems the most brainless to me...but that's based on what I know how to do. You get more metal on the tubes, and you get your "spacer" effect for the 3" brackets...and if you weld the new to the old along the length (or with plug welds, or whatever...I can't do that stuff but you can probably handle it) then you've got a hell of a strong assembly, and it's the right size. Why make it harder on yourself?

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #12 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Would you split it down the middle after cutting it to length, clamp it tightly around the tube and then weld up the split?
This is what I did for my HP D30....but I only went to the UCA mount. I used 3"x0.25" wall Schedule 40, since thats what was free & available to me. I beveled all the edges, and there was 4-5 passes total on each seam. It was uber low budget, a total under $40 including the consumables & nickel rod.

I really liked never_monday's D30 sleeve here:
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/30...ilt-us-957993/

he cut all the brackets off a JK HP30 and sleeved similar to what you describe.


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post #13 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
I like the split down the length of the tube for two reasons:

1. It allows the 3" tube to be stretched open a bit before it goes over the axle tube...that (theoretically) should let it slide on a lot easier. I know it won't move much, but it would move some, and then you have nothing but a long weld to make...which shouldn't be that hard. Clamping it back shut should be easy as well...plenty of simple solutions for that.

2. It handily serves your goal of "strength first and then secondarily, so that all the aftermarket brackets that are made for 3" tube all work better..." with the least work. Overall, it seems the most brainless to me...but that's based on what I know how to do. You get more metal on the tubes, and you get your "spacer" effect for the 3" brackets...and if you weld the new to the old along the length (or with plug welds, or whatever...I can't do that stuff but you can probably handle it) then you've got a hell of a strong assembly, and it's the right size. Why make it harder on yourself?
I should also mention that I'm going to be building another JK 44/60 and the option of split and slide won't work there. I'm going to take my aluminum knuckles and F-450 inner C's and attach them to a hybrid JK front for a good friend's rig that runs coilovers. So I'm also looking for a method that works there as well.

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post #14 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
This is what I did for my HP D30....but I only went to the UCA mount. I used 3"x0.25" wall Schedule 40, since thats what was free & available to me. I beveled all the edges, and there was 4-5 passes total on each seam. It was uber low budget, a total under $40 including the consumables & nickel rod.

I really liked never_monday's D30 sleeve here:
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/30...ilt-us-957993/

he cut all the brackets off a JK HP30 and sleeved similar to what you describe.
Pat and I talked about that axle several times. I'm still looking for one because I'm quite fond of it.

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post #15 of 359 Old 06-16-2011, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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I used 3"x0.25" wall Schedule 40, since thats what was free & available to me. I beveled all the edges, and there was 4-5 passes total on each seam. It was uber low budget, a total under $40 including the consumables & nickel rod.
This tube was 17.00 per foot.

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