Savvy Under Armor - Page 196 - JeepForum.com
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post #2926 of 2934 Old 09-01-2018, 12:13 AM
mountaineertom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Altonymous View Post
What I have left after installing the belly pan skid...


I recently bought a Savvy engine skid myself. In your picture it looks like you have four 3/8 coarse thread bolts/nuts and four 3/8 fine thread bolts/nuts. Mine came that way too and with no instructions (which I was aware there wasn't any instructions).

Where are the fine thread bolts/nuts suppose to go? In the brackets that go on the motor mount frames, or where the steel struts attach to the skid?

Or does it matter? Why would they send two different kinds. I called Savvy and asked, but the girl that answered the phone didn't know and said they usually send all the same hardware.


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post #2927 of 2934 Old 09-01-2018, 05:48 AM
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountaineertom View Post
I recently bought a Savvy engine skid myself. In your picture it looks like you have four 3/8 coarse thread bolts/nuts and four 3/8 fine thread bolts/nuts. Mine came that way too and with no instructions (which I was aware there wasn't any instructions).

Where are the fine thread bolts/nuts suppose to go? In the brackets that go on the motor mount frames, or where the steel struts attach to the skid?

Or does it matter? Why would they send two different kinds. I called Savvy and asked, but the girl that answered the phone didn't know and said they usually send all the same hardware.
Fine thread are preferred when possible but, the ones that go into the motor mount bracket are coarse thread because they are in a difficult place to access and the coarse thread are easier to start in that spot. No, they don't usually send all the same hardware and that fastener combination has been in use since day one.

The ones at the braces are rarely perfectly aligned and the fine thread is a bit easier to pull stuff together with when you want to make it behave.
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post #2928 of 2934 Old 09-01-2018, 10:03 AM
mountaineertom
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Fine thread are preferred when possible but, the ones that go into the motor mount bracket are coarse thread because they are in a difficult place to access and the coarse thread are easier to start in that spot. No, they don't usually send all the same hardware and that fastener combination has been in use since day one.

The ones at the braces are rarely perfectly aligned and the fine thread is a bit easier to pull stuff together with when you want to make it behave.
Great! Thank you mrblaine, for the quick response. : )

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post #2929 of 2934 Old 09-09-2018, 06:17 PM
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Got my Savvy engine skid installed a few days ago, mounted to the factory transfer case skid. I added a washer between the t-case skid and engine skid on all 4 mounting bolts just to get a little more clearance between my trans drain plug and trans temp gauge sensor and the engine skid. I had to trim a little off the drivers side of skid that was up against the exhaust pipe. I also ground off a little of the corner on the upper end of the drivers side front strut because it was hitting the hardware that holds the motor mount frame bracket. Satisfied customer.
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post #2930 of 2934 Old 09-09-2018, 07:05 PM
mrblaine
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Originally Posted by mountaineertom View Post
Got my Savvy engine skid installed a few days ago, mounted to the factory transfer case skid. I added a washer between the t-case skid and engine skid on all 4 mounting bolts just to get a little more clearance between my trans drain plug and trans temp gauge sensor and the engine skid. I had to trim a little off the drivers side of skid that was up against the exhaust pipe. I also ground off a little of the corner on the upper end of the drivers side front strut because it was hitting the hardware that holds the motor mount frame bracket. Satisfied customer.
The bolts at the bottom of the frame motor mount should have the nuts inside. They are serrated flange hex nuts and will lock in place without the use of a wrench up inside there. Just hold them with your finger, start the bolt, and then you can tighten them without a back up.

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post #2931 of 2934 Old 09-09-2018, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mountaineertom View Post
Got my Savvy engine skid installed a few days ago, mounted to the factory transfer case skid. I added a washer between the t-case skid and engine skid on all 4 mounting bolts just to get a little more clearance between my trans drain plug and trans temp gauge sensor and the engine skid. I had to trim a little off the drivers side of skid that was up against the exhaust pipe. I also ground off a little of the corner on the upper end of the drivers side front strut because it was hitting the hardware that holds the motor mount frame bracket. Satisfied customer.
The bolts at the bottom of the frame motor mount should have the nuts inside. They are serrated flange hex nuts and will lock in place without the use of a wrench up inside there. Just hold them with your finger, start the bolt, and then you can tighten them without a back up.
Uh oh. Should I change them?

I got a boxed end wrench up in the bottom opening of the MM frame and held the bolt heads and was able to torque nuts down to 33 ft lbs (which I seen someone in another post mentioned using for the torque) and blue loctite on the threads. The angle on the boxed end was perfect for fitting on the bolt head.

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post #2932 of 2934 Old 09-10-2018, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mountaineertom View Post
Uh oh. Should I change them?

I got a boxed end wrench up in the bottom opening of the MM frame and held the bolt heads and was able to torque nuts down to 33 ft lbs (which I seen someone in another post mentioned using for the torque) and blue loctite on the threads. The angle on the boxed end was perfect for fitting on the bolt head.
No, they work the same either way, it is just much easier to hold the nut with your finger instead of fishing a wrench up in there.

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post #2933 of 2934 Old 09-10-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mountaineertom View Post
Uh oh. Should I change them?

I got a boxed end wrench up in the bottom opening of the MM frame and held the bolt heads and was able to torque nuts down to 33 ft lbs (which I seen someone in another post mentioned using for the torque) and blue loctite on the threads. The angle on the boxed end was perfect for fitting on the bolt head.
No, they work the same either way, it is just much easier to hold the nut with your finger instead of fishing a wrench up in there.
Ok, thank you.

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post #2934 of 2934 Old 09-11-2018, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountaineertom View Post
I recently bought a Savvy engine skid myself. In your picture it looks like you have four 3/8 coarse thread bolts/nuts and four 3/8 fine thread bolts/nuts. Mine came that way too and with no instructions (which I was aware there wasn't any instructions).

Where are the fine thread bolts/nuts suppose to go? In the brackets that go on the motor mount frames, or where the steel struts attach to the skid?

Or does it matter? Why would they send two different kinds. I called Savvy and asked, but the girl that answered the phone didn't know and said they usually send all the same hardware.
Sure, they all ship with the same hardware... course thread and fine thread in every bag that goes out. Once you start installing just ask yourself as your lying under the jeep with a face full of dirt which location you'd rather monkey around with getting the fine thread nut started on the bolt. If you choose wrong it will quickly become apparent.

Edit: strangely just had another 12 posts populate, I can see now this has already been answered... Hey MrBlaine
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aluminum , belly up , crossmember , high clearance , savvy , savvy under armor , t-case , t-case skid plate , transfer case , transfer case skid , under armor

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