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mountaineertom 09-01-2018 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Altonymous (Post 39871481)
What I have left after installing the belly pan skid...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...888327b48b.jpg


I recently bought a Savvy engine skid myself. In your picture it looks like you have four 3/8 coarse thread bolts/nuts and four 3/8 fine thread bolts/nuts. Mine came that way too and with no instructions (which I was aware there wasn't any instructions).

Where are the fine thread bolts/nuts suppose to go? In the brackets that go on the motor mount frames, or where the steel struts attach to the skid?

Or does it matter? Why would they send two different kinds. I called Savvy and asked, but the girl that answered the phone didn't know and said they usually send all the same hardware.

mrblaine 09-01-2018 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountaineertom (Post 40335451)
I recently bought a Savvy engine skid myself. In your picture it looks like you have four 3/8 coarse thread bolts/nuts and four 3/8 fine thread bolts/nuts. Mine came that way too and with no instructions (which I was aware there wasn't any instructions).

Where are the fine thread bolts/nuts suppose to go? In the brackets that go on the motor mount frames, or where the steel struts attach to the skid?

Or does it matter? Why would they send two different kinds. I called Savvy and asked, but the girl that answered the phone didn't know and said they usually send all the same hardware.

Fine thread are preferred when possible but, the ones that go into the motor mount bracket are coarse thread because they are in a difficult place to access and the coarse thread are easier to start in that spot. No, they don't usually send all the same hardware and that fastener combination has been in use since day one.

The ones at the braces are rarely perfectly aligned and the fine thread is a bit easier to pull stuff together with when you want to make it behave.

mountaineertom 09-01-2018 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrblaine (Post 40335537)
Fine thread are preferred when possible but, the ones that go into the motor mount bracket are coarse thread because they are in a difficult place to access and the coarse thread are easier to start in that spot. No, they don't usually send all the same hardware and that fastener combination has been in use since day one.

The ones at the braces are rarely perfectly aligned and the fine thread is a bit easier to pull stuff together with when you want to make it behave.

Great! Thank you mrblaine, for the quick response. : )

mountaineertom 09-09-2018 07:17 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Got my Savvy engine skid installed a few days ago, mounted to the factory transfer case skid. I added a washer between the t-case skid and engine skid on all 4 mounting bolts just to get a little more clearance between my trans drain plug and trans temp gauge sensor and the engine skid. I had to trim a little off the drivers side of skid that was up against the exhaust pipe. I also ground off a little of the corner on the upper end of the drivers side front strut because it was hitting the hardware that holds the motor mount frame bracket. Satisfied customer.

mrblaine 09-09-2018 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountaineertom (Post 40345187)
Got my Savvy engine skid installed a few days ago, mounted to the factory transfer case skid. I added a washer between the t-case skid and engine skid on all 4 mounting bolts just to get a little more clearance between my trans drain plug and trans temp gauge sensor and the engine skid. I had to trim a little off the drivers side of skid that was up against the exhaust pipe. I also ground off a little of the corner on the upper end of the drivers side front strut because it was hitting the hardware that holds the motor mount frame bracket. Satisfied customer.

The bolts at the bottom of the frame motor mount should have the nuts inside. They are serrated flange hex nuts and will lock in place without the use of a wrench up inside there. Just hold them with your finger, start the bolt, and then you can tighten them without a back up.

mountaineertom 09-10-2018 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrblaine (Post 40345229)
Quote:

Originally Posted by mountaineertom (Post 40345187)
Got my Savvy engine skid installed a few days ago, mounted to the factory transfer case skid. I added a washer between the t-case skid and engine skid on all 4 mounting bolts just to get a little more clearance between my trans drain plug and trans temp gauge sensor and the engine skid. I had to trim a little off the drivers side of skid that was up against the exhaust pipe. I also ground off a little of the corner on the upper end of the drivers side front strut because it was hitting the hardware that holds the motor mount frame bracket. Satisfied customer.

The bolts at the bottom of the frame motor mount should have the nuts inside. They are serrated flange hex nuts and will lock in place without the use of a wrench up inside there. Just hold them with your finger, start the bolt, and then you can tighten them without a back up.

Uh oh. Should I change them?

I got a boxed end wrench up in the bottom opening of the MM frame and held the bolt heads and was able to torque nuts down to 33 ft lbs (which I seen someone in another post mentioned using for the torque) and blue loctite on the threads. The angle on the boxed end was perfect for fitting on the bolt head.

mrblaine 09-10-2018 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountaineertom (Post 40345407)
Uh oh. Should I change them?

I got a boxed end wrench up in the bottom opening of the MM frame and held the bolt heads and was able to torque nuts down to 33 ft lbs (which I seen someone in another post mentioned using for the torque) and blue loctite on the threads. The angle on the boxed end was perfect for fitting on the bolt head.

No, they work the same either way, it is just much easier to hold the nut with your finger instead of fishing a wrench up in there.

mountaineertom 09-10-2018 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrblaine (Post 40345679)
Quote:

Originally Posted by mountaineertom (Post 40345407)
Uh oh. Should I change them?

I got a boxed end wrench up in the bottom opening of the MM frame and held the bolt heads and was able to torque nuts down to 33 ft lbs (which I seen someone in another post mentioned using for the torque) and blue loctite on the threads. The angle on the boxed end was perfect for fitting on the bolt head.

No, they work the same either way, it is just much easier to hold the nut with your finger instead of fishing a wrench up in there.

Ok, thank you.

bigmac 09-11-2018 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountaineertom (Post 40335451)
I recently bought a Savvy engine skid myself. In your picture it looks like you have four 3/8 coarse thread bolts/nuts and four 3/8 fine thread bolts/nuts. Mine came that way too and with no instructions (which I was aware there wasn't any instructions).

Where are the fine thread bolts/nuts suppose to go? In the brackets that go on the motor mount frames, or where the steel struts attach to the skid?

Or does it matter? Why would they send two different kinds. I called Savvy and asked, but the girl that answered the phone didn't know and said they usually send all the same hardware.

Sure, they all ship with the same hardware... course thread and fine thread in every bag that goes out. Once you start installing just ask yourself as your lying under the jeep with a face full of dirt which location you'd rather monkey around with getting the fine thread nut started on the bolt. If you choose wrong it will quickly become apparent.

Edit: strangely just had another 12 posts populate, I can see now this has already been answered... Hey MrBlaine :wave:

bmxrules39 02-27-2020 01:36 AM

Had a weld crack on my skid. Received extremely poor and unprofessional customer service from savvy. I would be very cautious about spending this much money on a product that has that kind of customer service behind it.

Ironhead 02-27-2020 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmxrules39 (Post 40886317)
Had a weld crack on my skid. Received extremely poor and unprofessional customer service from savvy. I would be very cautious about spending this much money on a product that has that kind of customer service behind it.

you're over hear spamming your bull**** too? get bent dude. you sound like a child. they are offering to repair a weld on a 3+ year old item and you're upset that you have to ship it to them?

what customer service do you expect, would you like them to bring you a new skid and swap it out for you?

bonofied suiter 02-27-2020 11:42 AM

Savvy Products
 
1 Attachment(s)
In my experience customer service from Savvy for me has always been top notch. I've got a 2003 TJ with the full Under Armor, Savvy LED Tail Lamps and a Savvy Fuel Tank Skid which has seen some of the toughest trails like the Fordyce, Rubicon trail 3X, Pritchett and many others with hardly a ding. I've never experienced any quality control issues, installation issues or lack of clear installation instructions. I've had to modify mine from time to time to clearance things when I added a Rubicon Rock Trac 241 transfer case and an Advance Adapters Rubicrawler. More than anything I love the extra ground clearance and how it looks with everything tucked up to frame level.


The team at Savvy have consistently provided top notch support of my needs and over the years they have supported my efforts to keep our public lands open in Nevada through support of the Hump-N-Bump.

If I were to have a problem especially after years of use I would not complain that they were being unreasonable for not offering to pay freight both ways. It saddens me to see them unfairly slammed when their offer to fix (weld the crack) seems more than fair and reasonable to me. I'm not aware of any manufacturer warranty that offers a lifetime warranty for a skid plate for taking damage. If they did, everyone's price would need to be adjusted up to pay for it.


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