Savvy Off Road is about to finally release the long awaited Under Armor. We want to release the first few to existing customers so we can get feedback on the installation and fit. You will need to be ready to install right away.
Savvy Under Armor is a complete system to protect the engine, transmission and transfer case. The kit will include a 1" motor mount kit, 1.25" body lift, exhaust hanger, low profile transmission mount, two cross members and the formed aluminum under armor.
I am hoping savvy has these in stock. I had to wait like 6 weeks or so to get my kit. If they arent, I am going to see if i can just modify it to make it work while I wait.
Ok, one more question and I should be done... I didn't get much time today to work on Jeep. I got the C braket installed and the cross member bolt to those.
My question is about the fuel lines and brake line. It seems like the lines will be sitting against the c braket and crossmember. I am a bit worried about rubbing. Am I missing something?
I am thinking about just getting a rubber hose cutting it and putting around the lines. Should that work?
In my opinion a 1.25" BL is absolutely necessary. I know a couple who still had to do some massage work on the tub even with 1.25" BL. Underneath a TJ is tight, [every little bit[/I] of clearance helps.
So after getting the crossmember put in, adjusting pinion angle, remeasuring drive shaft, etc, finally sitting in the Jeep with all but the plate installed and the motor skid installed.
My hand is hitting the dash on the top three gears. I have the Currie 1" MML installed and Zone 1.25" bl installed.
It is definitely drive able like this, but very annoying... Should I have expected to have to bend my shifter? Will the bushings in the crossmember settle?
I drove the Jeep to work this morning. I didn't have an issue with hitting the dash too much, but it was on my mind. Might take a look at bending it this weekend if I have time.
It feels so weird shifting now though. The position is so different after driving around with the MML and BL for so long.
So I had to throw the top on the jeep to go camping, and holy crap, the transmission passed so much heat through the body my right leg was uncomfortably hot... I take it the UA pushes the tranny up so much it passes heat through the body, but what can I do to make it bearable. I am willing to do whatever. Even with the doors off and in 50* weather my leg was burning.
I commonly drive hundreds of miles at a time in my rig and know your pain. I’ve laid down a double layer of heat shield underneath my center console to help things out but it still gets darn hot. I don’t have any carpet in favor of a spray in bed liner but I think carpet would help too. I ended up putting down some carpet floor mats I still had and that helps a bit too.
I commonly drive hundreds of miles at a time in my rig and know your pain. I've laid down a double layer of heat shield underneath my center console to help things out but it still gets darn hot. I don't have any carpet in favor of a spray in bed liner but I think carpet would help too. I ended up putting down some carpet floor mats I still had and that helps a bit too.
My install is a bit different in that it coincided with the mid arms which required far more exhaust work. My new main cat is sitting forward of the skid. I haven't noticed any significant increase in cabin heat.
With it being forward of the skid, is it pretty much right next to the starter now? I was thinking about trying that, but wasn't sure if the extra heat would damage the starter
Try a completely flat belly, a 6/0 and TH400, and 3 inch exhaust. Mine gets HOT. Like burn your hand hot. I put some foil insulation under the carpet back when I ran carpet. Helped a ton. Just a wheeler now, so I don't worry about it anymore.
Got my Savvy engine skid installed a few days ago, mounted to the factory transfer case skid. I added a washer between the t-case skid and engine skid on all 4 mounting bolts just to get a little more clearance between my trans drain plug and trans temp gauge sensor and the engine skid. I had to trim a little off the drivers side of skid that was up against the exhaust pipe. I also ground off a little of the corner on the upper end of the drivers side front strut because it was hitting the hardware that holds the motor mount frame bracket. Satisfied customer.
The bolts at the bottom of the frame motor mount should have the nuts inside. They are serrated flange hex nuts and will lock in place without the use of a wrench up inside there. Just hold them with your finger, start the bolt, and then you can tighten them without a back up.
Had a weld crack on my skid. Received extremely poor and unprofessional customer service from savvy. I would be very cautious about spending this much money on a product that has that kind of customer service behind it.
you're over hear spamming your bull**** too? get bent dude. you sound like a child. they are offering to repair a weld on a 3+ year old item and you're upset that you have to ship it to them?
what customer service do you expect, would you like them to bring you a new skid and swap it out for you?
In my experience customer service from Savvy for me has always been top notch. I've got a 2003 TJ with the full Under Armor, Savvy LED Tail Lamps and a Savvy Fuel Tank Skid which has seen some of the toughest trails like the Fordyce, Rubicon trail 3X, Pritchett and many others with hardly a ding. I've never experienced any quality control issues, installation issues or lack of clear installation instructions. I've had to modify mine from time to time to clearance things when I added a Rubicon Rock Trac 241 transfer case and an Advance Adapters Rubicrawler. More than anything I love the extra ground clearance and how it looks with everything tucked up to frame level.
The team at Savvy have consistently provided top notch support of my needs and over the years they have supported my efforts to keep our public lands open in Nevada through support of the Hump-N-Bump.
If I were to have a problem especially after years of use I would not complain that they were being unreasonable for not offering to pay freight both ways. It saddens me to see them unfairly slammed when their offer to fix (weld the crack) seems more than fair and reasonable to me. I'm not aware of any manufacturer warranty that offers a lifetime warranty for a skid plate for taking damage. If they did, everyone's price would need to be adjusted up to pay for it.
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