Savvy/Currie/Fox Suspension and outboarding questions - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-04-2019, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Savvy/Currie/Fox Suspension and outboarding questions

I apologize if I am asking elementary questions or ones that have been answered a million times but I am doing my suspension and steering on my LJR and have a few questions.

I am using Savvy aluminum short arm kit with Currie 4” springs track bars and bump kits, Paul Coplin tuned Fox Shocks, Poly Performance universal outboarding kits for the front and rear, Currie Savvy steering. I already have Black Magic 17” Big Brake kit and BFG 35” Raptor take off tires and a 1” body lift on it.

My first question is that about front lower shock mounts. The ones that come with the Poly kit don’t have a place to go on the front axle and all of my searching hasn’t turned up any good pics. If someone could either direct me to commercially available mounts or post pics to show me how they have done theirs I would appreciate it.

My second question is on bumpstops. I am cycling my front suspension to get measurements and at full bump I am seeing 4.25” between my lower bump pad and upper bump mount (cup removed) on the drivers side and 2.5” on the passenger. I was planning on using the Currie bumps as presented because that would give me about 5.5” of static bump and I read that I need to allow for approximately an extra inch of dynamic compression. Does this sound right?

I’ve been reading a ton of threads and have learned a lot. The scope of this project feels huge because I’ve never done a TJ suspension before and I’m working by myself so it is going slowly. I’m OK with that as I really want to get this right.

Thanks,
Kenny

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post #2 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 08:27 AM
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While that kit is well,well,well out of my price range it seems that something is amiss if you only have 2 1/2 inches on one side. But yes you want to slow for at least 1/2" to 1" at the bump stops.
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Goatman#1 View Post
While that kit is well,well,well out of my price range it seems that something is amiss if you only have 2 1/2 inches on one side. But yes you want to slow for at least 1/2" to 1" at the bump stops.
Nothing is amiss. Those measurements are mechanical bump measurements taken by removing the springs, shocks, bump stops, and bump stop cups and jacking the axle up to its maximum bump and then measuring between the lower spring mount/bumpstop pad and the upper spring retainer/bumpstop mount. The figure is larger on the driver's side than the passenger side because travel stops earlier on the driver's side due to interference with between the trackbar and the axle.
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatman#1 View Post
While that kit is well,well,well out of my price range it seems that something is amiss if you only have 2 1/2 inches on one side. But yes you want to slow for at least 1/2" to 1" at the bump stops.
Nothing is amiss. Those measurements are mechanical bump measurements taken by removing the springs, shocks, bump stops, and bump stop cups and jacking the axle up to its maximum bump and then measuring between the lower spring mount/bumpstop pad and the upper spring retainer/bumpstop mount. The figure is larger on the driver's side than the passenger side because travel stops earlier on the driver's side due to interference with between the trackbar and the axle.
Pictures would probably help explain what's going on a bit. While you do want to maximize up travel as much as possible, you still want to have the shocks setup equally on the left and right front, meaning that you should limit both equally at the soonest point of interference.

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post #5 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 01:28 PM
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Not really sure what you're getting at by saying dynamic compression, but I set up my shock mounts so that there is still about 1/4" of shaft showing at full bump, whether that be with the axle articulated fully, full bump on both sides or somewhere in between. You just want to prevent the shock being used as the bumpstop as it will damage the shock over time. The 1/4" helps allow for frame flex or other unexpected things like bending the bumpstop cups when you hit hard

As far shock mounts, artec, poly performance, synergy, ballistic Fab, ruffstuff, etc. Whichever version you like best, probably going to have to require some creative thinking to make something fit. Also not hard to Fab your own too
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Pictures would probably help explain what's going on a bit. While you do want to maximize up travel as much as possible, you still want to have the shocks setup equally on the left and right front, meaning that you should limit both equally at the soonest point of interference.
They will be set up equally. Those were the measurements when I cycled the suspension with no bumps in whatsoever, which is the first step in setting your bumps.
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Not really sure what you're getting at by saying dynamic compression, but I set up my shock mounts so that there is still about 1/4" of shaft showing at full bump, whether that be with the axle articulated fully, full bump on both sides or somewhere in between. You just want to prevent the shock being used as the bumpstop as it will damage the shock over time. The 1/4" helps allow for frame flex or other unexpected things like bending the bumpstop cups when you hit hard

As far shock mounts, artec, poly performance, synergy, ballistic Fab, ruffstuff, etc. Whichever version you like best, probably going to have to require some creative thinking to make something fit. Also not hard to Fab your own too
Dynamic compression is pretty simple. You are going to get about another inch of compression out of the bump stops themselves when you land hard on them as opposed to just jacking the axle up. So if you only left 1/4” you didn’t leave enough.

I’m fully aware of the companies that make shock mounts and have a lot of fab equipment available to me. I just don’t like reinventing the wheel and if someone had a mount in mind that worked with a similar setup, I’d like to see it. I saw a pic yesterday of a guy who ran his lower front shock mount off of his LCA axle mount and appeared a likely candidate for my plagiarism.
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 06:53 PM
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An inch of compression on Currie bumpstops strikes me as excessive. OEM jounce bumpers? Yes. That's why you measure from the metal cup and not the bumpers, but I don't believe Currie BS give much at all.

Lower shock mount and control arm mount have to work together absolutely. There is no magic though. The level of modification you are talking about here you have to be prepared to just figure it out.
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Not really sure what you're getting at by saying dynamic compression, but I set up my shock mounts so that there is still about 1/4" of shaft showing at full bump, whether that be with the axle articulated fully, full bump on both sides or somewhere in between. You just want to prevent the shock being used as the bumpstop as it will damage the shock over time. The 1/4" helps allow for frame flex or other unexpected things like bending the bumpstop cups when you hit hard

As far shock mounts, artec, poly performance, synergy, ballistic Fab, ruffstuff, etc. Whichever version you like best, probably going to have to require some creative thinking to make something fit. Also not hard to Fab your own too
Dynamic compression is pretty simple. You are going to get about another inch of compression out of the bump stops themselves when you land hard on them as opposed to just jacking the axle up. So if you only left 1/4” you didn’t leave enough.

I’m fully aware of the companies that make shock mounts and have a lot of fab equipment available to me. I just don’t like reinventing the wheel and if someone had a mount in mind that worked with a similar setup, I’d like to see it. I saw a pic yesterday of a guy who ran his lower front shock mount off of his LCA axle mount and appeared a likely candidate for my plagiarism.
Never heard of dynamic compression then. Bumpstops are the two hard metal pieces that are going to hit each other and hopefully stop your suspension from compressing anymore than it has already. If whatever you're measuring to is soft and going to compress, you don't care about it, find the next hard metal thing above it and measure from there. I wouldn't try to guess how much the bump is going to compress, cause you're probably going to be wrong and ordering shock parts. If you overestimate and have half an inch extra shock shaft, go find a bigger whoop to hit and use it.

Nothing special for shock mounts, I welded two little ugly tabs off the side of my CA mount and have been meaning to go back and redo it, but they haven't broken yet so I have higher priorities. If you want some handy, I would make the lower mount hole a vertical slot, and set up the mount with the bolt buried at the bottom of the slot when setting clearances. If you ever have or plan on taking your shocks off more than a few times I think this would make it so much easier. Definitely what I'll be doing for lower mounts when I redo my shocks again

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post #10 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 07:45 PM
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Here's how Blaine & I did it on several TJ/LJ's we worked on.

We'd carefully cut the stock shock mount off & attach a filler plate to get a better finished look & add the lower shock mount & weld and paint things up.

We'd cycle the axle with make-shift fake shocks attached so that we would be able to place the mounts exactly where they need to go.

Easy stuff.


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post #11 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
Here's how Blaine & I did it on several TJ/LJ's we worked on.

We'd carefully cut the stock shock mount off & attach a filler plate to get a better finished look & add the lower shock mount & weld and paint things up.

We'd cycle the axle with make-shift fake shocks attached so that we would be able to place the mounts exactly where they need to go.

Easy stuff.


This looks a lot like mine (which was done with Blaine's phone input from 3000 miles away).
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post #12 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 09:21 PM
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Yep, mine is very much like the one above. If my attachment works, you will see my lower mount tacked in before it's all welded up and boxed. It takes a bit of customizing the lower mount to get it to fit/work. Like many of us, it's a slow process of cutting and grinding the mount, at least it was for me the first time I did it. Keep asking questions, that's what I did and how I learned.
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-05-2019, 11:10 PM
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Hey Kenny. I've done both the above using the supplied Synergy mount, and I've also tabbed off the side of the lower CA mount.

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post #14 of 14 Old 06-06-2019, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Nice thanks to all. I am super excited to try these shocks Paul. I can’t believe it has taken me this long to get around to installing them.
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