rubicon tcase in place of np231? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
03_X
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rubicon tcase in place of np231?

can you swap out your 231 for the rubicon case and run that cv shaft instead of a sye kit?? if so what kind of work would be needed for the swap? thanks

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post #2 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 03:42 PM
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The Rubicon Tcase is larger and requires the Rubicon skid plate. It will not fit with your stock skid. Driveshaft will run about $400

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post #3 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
The Rubicon Tcase is larger and requires the Rubicon skid plate. It will not fit with your stock skid. Driveshaft will run about $400
depending where you go, mine cost $250



yes it will work but as stated you need the rubi skid, may be able to drill yours but i dunno, also usally rubi cases are expensive unless you found good deal


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post #4 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 03:51 PM
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What's so special about the Rubicon skidplate? Just bolt hole positioning for the tranny mount bolts maybe?

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #5 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
The Rubicon Tcase is larger and requires the Rubicon skid plate. It will not fit with your stock skid. Driveshaft will run about $400
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnemovr View Post

yes it will work but as stated you need the rubi skid, may be able to drill yours but i dunno, also usally rubi cases are expensive unless you found good deal
Thats incorrect. The skid has nothing to do with it. And I bet you can find someone willing to give you an old rubi skid if you really want one


If you do a 241 Rubicon t case swap you wont need to get an SYE. If you do the swap on a pre 03 TJ you will either need a new transmission mount or need to modify the stock mount. You can find a new 03+ TJ mount online for about 35 bucks. I chose to just modify mine which wasn't too hard. As with any SYE kit, you will need a CV drive shaft. I bought a stock front drive shaft from a TJ and had it modified at the local drive line shop. You can easily do that for under 150 bucks.

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Last edited by snellav; 07-31-2008 at 04:09 PM.
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post #6 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I have seen RUBI driveshafts on ebay for as cheap at $75. Granted they may be jacked up but other than that seems pretty simple to swap. Maybe I will contact Daveys Jeep and see what he has. Would this be an advised swap or would you stick with the 231 and SYE? Also I have the D35, would the ujoints match up etc etc?
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post #7 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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also would i need a new transfer case shifter or anything else?
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post #8 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 04:44 PM
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The Rubi t-case uses a 1330 u-joint, your D35c (and 231) uses a 1310 u-joint but people like Tom Wood make a hybrid 1310/1330 u-joint. I wouldn't use a Rubi driveshaft which is not a CV driveshaft, I'd go with an aftermarket CV driveshaft. Caution on using a 4:1 t-case (the Rubi t-case is a 4:1) with your stock Dana 35c rear axle, it only increases the torque the Dana 35c must withstand and that would make it tough for it to survive a tough offroad setting.

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post #9 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Tough offroad and ohio don't mix. =) the wheeling here around columbus is more of trails through woods, nothing major. i think it'd be ok.. someday i'll get my D44.
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post #10 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 08:18 PM
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Tough offroad and ohio don't mix. =) the wheeling here around columbus is more of trails through woods, nothing major. i think it'd be ok.. someday i'll get my D44.
If that's the case, why spend the money for the Rubi t-case now? Why not spend that money on other mods? And I disagree with the previous poster that suggested you could get someone to 'give' you a 241. Everyone I know that's done this swap has spent $800 - $1200 to get a 241 in good shape.

But if you, TW can build you a CV shaft that is falnged for the 241, and has the 1310 yoke you need. You will also need to get a 1310 yoke, splined for the 241, for you front d/s. I got all this stuff from TW when I did my swap.
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post #11 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 08:31 PM
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Tough offroad and ohio don't mix. =) the wheeling here around columbus is more of trails through woods, nothing major. i think it'd be ok.. someday i'll get my D44.
looking at your profile. I'd spend the 241 money and regear first. 33's with 4.56 and the 231 make a nice crawl speed.


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post #12 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 09:36 PM
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I have swapped out the 241 for the 231 in a standard TJ. It took about 4 hours to do. The stock skid plate works just fine. the stock linkage was reused too. We had to get a new rear driveshaft, but we were able to reuse the front drive shaft with a new output flange on the 241.

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post #13 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 09:46 PM
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Tough offroad and ohio don't mix. =) the wheeling here around columbus is more of trails through woods, nothing major. i think it'd be ok.. someday i'll get my D44.
I'll 2nd the vote for regearing rather than putting in a 4:1 case... You'll get better on and off road performance that way v. a mod that isn't really all that useful for the type of terrain you wheel and which doesn't help you regain lost power in the other situations.

Plus, if you do the math, your crawl ratio is nearly identical in both of those situations.
4.02 (NV3550 1st) x 4.56 (new axle ratio) x 2.72 (stock 231 4-low) = 49.86:1
4.02 (NV3550 1st) x 3.07 (old axle ratio) x 4.00 (rubi 241 4-low) = 49.37:1

axle gear change actually nets you a very slightly better crawl ratio plus has benefits the other 95% of the time...

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post #14 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 10:16 PM
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If the stock skid plate will work on a 241, why does Jeep use a different skid on the Rubicons that hangs down 1" to 1.5" below the standard TJ skid?
That's a loss of precious ground clearance.

97 TJ 4.0, AX15, E-Fan, 5" Full Traction Long Arm - D44s /4:88s, 36" TSL/SX Swampers on Cragar Bead Locks, Atlas ll, Outback Extreme OnBoard Air, Hand Throttle, Homemade Sliders, Homemade Rear Roll Cage, M.O.R.E. High Clearance Bumpers, Currie Currectlync Steering, Currie Anti rock, Warn 9.5XP, OR Fab Sport Cage Up Front, I've lost control.
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post #15 of 27 Old 07-31-2008, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PyroXian View Post
I'll 2nd the vote for regearing rather than putting in a 4:1 case... You'll get better on and off road performance that way v. a mod that isn't really all that useful for the type of terrain you wheel and which doesn't help you regain lost power in the other situations.

Plus, if you do the math, your crawl ratio is nearly identical in both of those situations.
4.02 (NV3550 1st) x 4.56 (new axle ratio) x 2.72 (stock 231 4-low) = 49.86:1
4.02 (NV3550 1st) x 3.07 (old axle ratio) x 4.00 (rubi 241 4-low) = 49.37:1

axle gear change actually nets you a very slightly better crawl ratio plus has benefits the other 95% of the time...


Very good advice

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