Rubicon Locker Indicator Light - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 09-18-2019, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
53flattie
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Rubicon Locker Indicator Light

Sorry for yet another Rubicon locker question... I searched and couldnít find an answer.

I canít seem to get the front locker light to stay illuminated. When I engage the front locker, I am 100% sure it locks (steering changes drastically, I can see the ďchurningĒ of the inside tire when doing an S turn, etc). But the light never goes solid.

I disconnected the electrical connector at the differential - everything looked good. I applied some dielectric grease and reconnected. Same story for the connector back at the pumps on the trans skid. Still no solid light.

Ultimately, the locker is working, which is great. But Iím a stickler for things working right and I REALLY want that light to function like itís designed. Any suggestions on what to do next?

Thanks!


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post #2 of 24 Old 09-18-2019, 06:02 PM
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Sometimes the sensor becomes sticky. How old is the gear oil? Have you tried driving with it engaged for a decent distance?

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post #3 of 24 Old 09-18-2019, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Sometimes the sensor becomes sticky. How old is the gear oil? Have you tried driving with it engaged for a decent distance?


Unfortunately, I donít know how old the gear oil is. The Jeep is new to me. Probably worthwhile to just go ahead and change the fluid anyway.

Iíve heard that the sensor (at least on the rear) is pretty fragile. Is the front the same way? Or can I try to ďactuateĒ it with a screwdriver or something, to make sure itís moving freely? Or is it better to just leave it alone?


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post #4 of 24 Old 09-18-2019, 07:54 PM
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I'd change it. There are drain plugs on the bottom of the diffs. I've never had my covers off, just always drained from the bottom, but I don't think you really have access to it with out removing the carrier. Don't unscrew it from the outside!

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/r.../#post35473922

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post #5 of 24 Old 09-19-2019, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Well Iíll be damned - Iíve never seen a drain plug on a D44 (probably bc Iíve always dealt with older axles). That sure makes it a lot easier.

Iím going to try driving it for a while with the front locker engaged, to see if it corrects itself before digging deeper.

Thanks!


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post #6 of 24 Old 09-21-2019, 12:42 AM
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Does the front locker lamp illuminate during a cluster test? Press and hold the odometer reset button while you turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN, release the button after a few seconds and the cluster should go through a lamp and gauge self test. If the lamp checks out during the self test, check the switch in the differential with a meter or test light.

Disconnect the locker switch, engage the locker, then see if you have continuity through the position switch. No continuity means a bad switch or it has come out of position in relation to the actuator ring. Good continuity points toward a problem with the indicator switch sense wire.

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post #7 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mukluk View Post
Does the front locker lamp illuminate during a cluster test? Press and hold the odometer reset button while you turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN, release the button after a few seconds and the cluster should go through a lamp and gauge self test. If the lamp checks out during the self test, check the switch in the differential with a meter or test light.

I did the cluster test. Neither the front nor the rear locker light illuminated during the test? Are you sure they are supposed to? I know the rear light works correctly, but it didnít come on during the gauge test.



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post #8 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 12:24 PM
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@53flattie
Just went out and ran the cluster test in my '05 and neither locker lamp illuminated during the test despite otherwise working normally, sorry for the bad information. Apparently those two lamps are hard wired versus completely EMIC controlled -- grounding the VT/WT wire should make the lamp illuminate, and you should have good continuity to ground at the black wire in the connector.

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post #9 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mukluk View Post
@53flattie
Just went out and ran the cluster test in my '05 and neither locker lamp illuminated during the test despite otherwise working normally, sorry for the bad information. Apparently those two lamps are hard wired versus completely EMIC controlled -- grounding the VT/WT wire should make the lamp illuminate, and you should have good continuity to ground at the black wire in the connector.


Thanks for the confirmation. I have a multimeter that is supposed to arrive sometime today. Iíll be checking the switch for continuity and will report back.


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post #10 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Okay - I checked the switch. Iím getting around 55-60 on on the rear switch, with it engaged (I have no idea what unit of measure that is). On the front, with the locker engaged, Iím getting 3-5 (same unit of measure, whatever that is).


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post #11 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 04:30 PM
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You should have the meter set to measure resistance in ohms.

Are you measuring the dash switch? Or the sensors in the axles?

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post #12 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Rubicon Locker Indicator Light

Please forgive my ignorance, but I though I was testing for continuity between the pins of the switch at the differential, when the locker is engaged.

Iím using this setting on the multimeter:




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post #13 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 05:31 PM
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Since your meter is auto ranging, take note of whether it says ohm, k ohm, or m ohm for the units... preferably you're getting just ohms.

The next step would be to check to see if you have continuity to ground at the connector's black wire (you should), and if the dash light comes on with the locker engaged and the VT/WT wire grounded (it should).

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post #14 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 05:54 PM
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Ok, when the lockers are engaged the resistance between the pins of the axle switch should be very low. As Muckluk suggested, when you measure the switches look at the units displayed in the upper right. In your pic, it is showing Mega Ohms.
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post #15 of 24 Old 09-23-2019, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Mukluk and jkp - excellent info and thanks for bearing with me.

I now realize why someone told me they didnít like an auto ranging DVM. Itís kind of annoying and it takes quite a while to settle. Now I know to pay attention to ďKĒ or ďMĒ. Live and learn.

Iíll check for continuity to ground on the black wire tomorrow.

Mukluk - can you explain what you mean by this statement: ď...and if the dash light comes on with the locker engaged and the VT/WT wire grounded...Ē

Iím not sure what ĎVT/WTí means either.


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