Rear Main Seal and skid plate - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 38 Old 04-29-2020, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
TeamDem4
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Rear Main Seal and skid plate

Hi folks,

Trying to decide if I want to tackle the RMS and oil pan gasket myself or have it done. There are some great write ups and videos on this but I'm confused. I know the exhaust needs to be loosened but some say you need to support the tranny and drop the skid plate. Others make no mention of the skid plate. I've got a 1999 TJ with 4.0, does the skid plate stay, or go?

Thanks.

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post #2 of 38 Old 04-29-2020, 05:21 PM
jjandascog
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I drop the skid plates (support the auto transmission with a jack) because it makes it much easer for me to get to the exhaust connection between the "3rd" cat and the rest of the exhaust pipe. FWIW I also completely move the exhaust from the manifold to that connection so I have plenty of room to work (mine is an 04 6 cyl). Other have different ways but that is what works for me

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post #3 of 38 Old 04-29-2020, 05:22 PM
2jhanna
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Not to hi-jack your thread, but I also am considering the same on my 02, and my question is the exhaust Y-pipe. Are there gaskets at the header end (top end on pipe) that need to be replaced once broken loose ?And the other end as well ?

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jhanna
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post #4 of 38 Old 04-29-2020, 08:20 PM
Arty McGeep
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There’s only one gasket (where the pipe meets the secondary catalytic converter). I reused mine when I did my rear main. I pulled the Y pipe all the way out. I didn’t find any need to drop the transmission skid, or lift the engine. But, my TJ has 41/2” lift kit and I had the Jeep supported by the frame on an automotive hoist. Doing this job on the ground or jack stands is probably a lot more challenging. Definitely want to let the front axle droop.
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post #5 of 38 Old 04-29-2020, 08:31 PM
bonza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2jhanna View Post
Not to hi-jack your thread, but I also am considering the same on my 02, and my question is the exhaust Y-pipe. Are there gaskets at the header end (top end on pipe) that need to be replaced once broken loose ?And the other end as well ?
I just recently replaced the RMS while replacing the clutch.

there are gaskets on the top end of the pipes where they connect to the exhaust manifold. they fit into a taper within both. didn't notice anything on the other end where it connects to the tail pipe

when re-fitting the exhaust pipe back in I didn't renew the 2 gaskets even though I had spares. they were wedged in place and seem fine so I bolted up the pipes real tight and no leaks.

you may want to have spare bolts for attaching the flanges to manifold though. the heads on mine weren't good and one of them had to have a die run over the threads as partially stripped

for doing the RMS I would remove the skid plate as makes it easier to get the exhaust pipe out and gives more working room

no hoist for me, working on the ground with the Jeep on jack stands

2005 TJ Light Khaki
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post #6 of 38 Old 04-29-2020, 08:31 PM
2jhanna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGeep View Post
There’s only one gasket (where the pipe meets the secondary catalytic converter). I reused mine when I did my rear main. I pulled the Y pipe all the way out. I didn’t find any need to drop the transmission skid, or lift the engine. But, my TJ has 41/2” lift kit and I had the Jeep supported by the frame on an automotive hoist. Doing this job on the ground or jack stands is probably a lot more challenging. Definitely want to let the front axle droop.
This info helps. I would have put jack stands under axle.

I am multi-talented, I can talk and piss you off at the same time.

jhanna
denton county, tx
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post #7 of 38 Old 04-29-2020, 08:33 PM
2jhanna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonza View Post
I just recently replaced the RMS while replacing the clutch.

there are gaskets on the top end of the pipes where they connect to the exhaust manifold. they fit into a taper within both. didn't notice anything on the other end where it connects to the tail pipe

when re-fitting the exhaust pipe back in I didn't renew the 2 gaskets even though I had spares. they were wedged in place and seem fine so I bolted up the pipes real tight and no leaks.

you may want to have spare bolts for attaching the flanges to manifold though. the heads on mine weren't good and one of them had to have a die run over the threads as partially stripped

for doing the RMS I would remove the skid plate as makes it easier to get the exhaust pipe out and gives more working room
Also thanks, good info.

I am multi-talented, I can talk and piss you off at the same time.

jhanna
denton county, tx
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post #8 of 38 Old 04-30-2020, 01:13 AM
Arty McGeep
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“there are gaskets on the top end of the pipes where they connect to the exhaust manifold. they fit into a taper within both. didn't notice anything on the other end where it connects to the tail pipe”
~good to know. I’m glad mine didn’t fall off! :0)
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post #9 of 38 Old 04-30-2020, 01:54 AM
Jonny Jeep
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Just did mine recently too. Jeep sat on ground. No need to remove skid or support anything. I got a set of snaps-ups with my fel-pro oil pan gasket. They make refitting the oil pan and seal much easier. The rear most hanger for my Banks cat back had rotted again (replaced it twice before now) so I've bought a stainless bolt on hanger to support the rear.
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post #10 of 38 Old 04-30-2020, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
I got a set of snaps-ups with my fel-pro oil pan gasket. They make refitting the oil pan and seal much easier.
What are these- never heard of them ?

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post #11 of 38 Old 04-30-2020, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueFl.Wrangler View Post
What are these- never heard of them ?


Fel-Pro® Oil Pan SnapUps® 8mm bolts
Designed to hold up the pan and gasket, for one person installation
Sold in sets of four and are reusable
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post #12 of 38 Old 04-30-2020, 06:23 AM
bonza
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^^ thats what I used.

they are included with the felpro gasket. makes installation so much easier especially when lying on your back under the engine offering the gasket in place


screw the snap ups in place into the 5/16" holes, fit the gasket and the snap ups hold it there, offer the oil pan in place with the snap ups still there as they act as dowels guiding the pan, screw in all the other 1/4" bolts and remove the snaps last then screw in the remaining 5/16" bolts. works like a charm

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post #13 of 38 Old 04-30-2020, 07:24 AM
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5/16" is the correct size as bonza has mentioned.


Fel-pro used to list 8mm for our engines - until I pointed out their error and sent a screenshot of the parts list with the thread sizes listed.


I'd have bought some years ago but they're not available in the UK. I was glad to find a seller on ebay uk with snap-ons included. Worked out cheaper than rockauto. Not often that happens.
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post #14 of 38 Old 04-30-2020, 08:52 AM
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Thanks

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post #15 of 38 Old 04-30-2020, 09:09 AM
2jhanna
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I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but I hoping the RMS is my last leak. In the past months I've addressed various other seal and gasket leaks from front to back. I've had the Jeep for over 12 years and the RMS has always leaked, but much less than the last few years. I keep a piece of cardboard under it now.

I thought D30 front axle seals required a lot of work for such small/cheap part (and only one of mine was leaking), but I now believe the RMS gets the "much work trophy".
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I am multi-talented, I can talk and piss you off at the same time.

jhanna
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