Re-Gear 01 Dana 30/44 3.73 to 4.88 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
qwerty123
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Re-Gear 01 Dana 30/44 3.73 to 4.88

I have read enough on this forum to feel somewhat comfortable at attempting to re-gear from 3.73 to 4.88's. This is not my DD so down time isn't an issue. I read most replies back to these re-gearing topics pushed to get it done at a shop. I want to learn how to do this so any help is appreciated. Hopefully someone in my situation can come across this and get help from is also...

I have both axle housings stripped down. Tear down was easy and I didn't find any noticeable extreme wear. Fought the 44 carrier for a while then used the trick to feed a shop rag through the housing in between the R&P. Popped out with ease.

I made setup bearings for carrier and the outer pinion also made an inner setup race.
The new inner pinion bearing has been pressed on."I froze the pinion and boiled the bearing. Went on way easier than I expected."
The new outer race has also been set in the housing. The outer race was a little more difficult to press in.

This is how the Dana 44 3.73was pulled out.
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My old pinion had a g +1 on the pinion button. From my understanding the new gears do not come with +/- for helping with the calculations for setup, they now come with the actual size. Mine has 2.625 stamped on the Ring so in the old way, that would be a "0". Being nominal is 2.562 for a 44.
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With a +1 on my old and 0 equivalent on my new I should theoretically need to adjust my inner shim -0.001?
I configured my pinion shims as close as I could just to get a starting point.
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My pinion preload was showing 10 in/lbs at 220ft/lbs so I made a -.009 outer shim adjustment. Preload read 12 in/lbs at 210ft/lbs.

Moved on to install the carrier with the same shim thickness as old.
My backlash was huge. Wrapped the dial gauge a fewtimes, way out of tolerance. >.250

I have now made 4 attempts to reduce backlash.
Added shims to Inner Pinion
Moved shims from RGS to NRGS

Shim adjustment log
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I am still dealing with extreme backlash!!! I knew this would be frustrating, but DAMN!!!

My next try "5" I plan on
-Putting my carrier shims back to original
-Add .030 more shim to my inner pinion stack. This will put me +.041 > original shim stack
-While I have the pinion out I will add .003 to my outer shim stack to bring the pinion preload down a little at 220ft/lbs.
Am I on the right train of thought to reduce the backlash?

Being I already move almost all my NRGS shims over to RGS with huge backlash, the only thing I could think of is to add shims to the inner pinion stack to create more contact. From reading what others did,.041 increase in shims seems high.

Any help would be appreciated...


Last edited by qwerty123; 05-10-2017 at 09:24 PM. Reason: spacing
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post #2 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
qwerty123
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I just checked on my phone and the picture attachments didn't come up. Can you guys viewing this on a computer see the attachments. Might be an issue with my post count being low.
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post #3 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 04:04 PM
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no we cant see them, its your low post count.

im no help on gear set up, sorry.

glfwda #6624
2005 rubicon sahara lj #592
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post #4 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
qwerty123
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Thanks Joe...
The picture really help. Until my count increases can anyone tell me if my last suggested step will help increase the backlash?
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post #5 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 07:44 PM
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how much have you added to your pinion shim stack vs. stock? Just to make sure, you're checking the backlash with the bearing caps on and torqued, right?

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post #6 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
qwerty123
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Think I figured it out. Did a lot of reading but missed the carrier split was 3.73 and down thought I read it was 3.73 and up. Looks like I will be getting lockers after all.
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post #7 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Trevlaw. I was at .040 over my original inner pinion shim stack and moved all of my NRGS shims over to RGS. Backlash lowered to .200 from .240. I knew something was way off. Probably didn't get an answer being all assumed I had the correct carrier.
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post #8 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by qwerty123 View Post
Trevlaw. I was at .040 over my original inner pinion shim stack and moved all of my NRGS shims over to RGS. Backlash lowered to .200 from .240. I knew something was way off. Probably didn't get an answer being all assumed I had the correct carrier.
Yep that'll do it haha. I'd take a look at that D44 Eaton E locker in the Jeepforum classifieds before anything else
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post #9 of 36 Old 05-10-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the lead... I was originally thinking ARB. Not having worry about a compressor wearing out is a plus.
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post #10 of 36 Old 05-11-2017, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by qwerty123 View Post
Thanks for the lead... I was originally thinking ARB. Not having worry about a compressor wearing out is a plus.
Worrying about a compressor wearing out? Don't think I have ever heard of that as an ARB problem.
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post #11 of 36 Old 05-11-2017, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by biffgnar
Worrying about a compressor wearing out? Don't think I have ever heard of that as an ARB problem.
After 13 years mine had a slow leak at the o-ring between the tank and compressor body. I didn't feel like ordering one so I used some rtv that I had laying around to re seal it. It's been great since. I don't think I'd be too worried about a compressor wearing out either.
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post #12 of 36 Old 05-11-2017, 12:50 PM
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i would be going ARB over Eaton IMO anyways. Stronger case and I am not sure they fixed their Cross pin issues.

Or a Yukon Zip locker..

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post #13 of 36 Old 05-11-2017, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TJnBC View Post
i would be going ARB over Eaton IMO anyways. Stronger case and I am not sure they fixed their Cross pin issues.

Or a Yukon Zip locker..
Did the Eaton have issues with the cross pins in the D44 version as well? I was under the impression only their 8.8 locker had that issue, hence why I went ARB over the E locker, which I would have preferred over the ARB if it would have worked. Instead my 8.8 ARB leaks like crazy when the diff is cold, but holds air fine once it gets warmed up a bit, after talking with ARB it seems to be just an expansion issue with the O rings, which they offered no fix for...

If I can't do Eaton next time around I'll probably be giving the Zip locker a shot

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post #14 of 36 Old 05-11-2017, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Did the Eaton have issues with the cross pins in the D44 version as well?
@Wheelin98TJ has a pretty good handle on what axles Eaton's E-Locker are good/not so good in. Hopefully he will chime in here with his knowledge.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #15 of 36 Old 05-11-2017, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Did the Eaton have issues with the cross pins in the D44 version as well?
@Wheelin98TJ has a pretty good handle on what axles Eaton's E-Locker are good/not so good in. Hopefully he will chime in here with his knowledge.
I would be interested in finding out as the e locker has always seemed appealing over ARB's as the several small air leaks have definitely been inconvenient.
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