radiator Blew Up. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-12-2018, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
buffy1
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radiator Blew Up.

I bought this 99 jeep wrangler sahara last winter and it had a small coolant leak around bottom hoses. We put new hoses on it, (The radiator was brand new) and made sure that it was tight and it still had a small coolant leak around the bottom hoses only. We could not pin point why it leaked it was sporadic. It runs great never gets too hot but last night it was sitting running in the driveway and we heard what sounded like a shotgun and the whole top of the radiator and hose blew off and it shut the engine down.

My question is does anyone know why this would happen? I have read on here of people that have replaced all of their hoses and clamps and still have a little coolant leak but I have never seen one BLOW up.

next question does anyone know of a good fan radiator combo and the correct hoses and clamps to get before I sink alot of useless money in it. We wont be doing big off roading we mainly drive it on a nice day with the top down and backroads.

It does have a body lift and the fan looked like it had several holes drilled to make fit.
Thanks in advance for the advice I would like to get this going getting nice weather in Tennessee!

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post #2 of 13 Old 04-12-2018, 02:02 PM
mukluk
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Could be the radiator cap failed to release excess pressure in the system, or the overflow port or hose going to the expansion tank was blocked, another possibility is the radiator was poor quality and had a material failure.

The best setup for a radiator and fan is the stock one, preferably OEM parts and not the bargain bin stuff. It would be wise to try to determine the exact cause of the failure of the current setup and correct it before installing and possibly damaging the new parts.
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post #3 of 13 Old 04-12-2018, 02:12 PM
blubaru2002
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Replace everything broken in your cooling system with Mopar factory equipment. Trust me.
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post #4 of 13 Old 04-12-2018, 02:50 PM
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Are you sure coolant hadn't gotten low due to the leak? What was the coolant/water mix you were running? What temperature had it been running at? Steam expands.
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post #5 of 13 Old 04-12-2018, 04:13 PM
toximus
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Before spending money on a new rad I'd probably double check that your engine is fine. It's possible a new engine may come with a free radiator and save you a few bucks.
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post #6 of 13 Old 04-13-2018, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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it has been running at normal temp and we just checked the coolant and had redone the every hose and brand new coolant had been added the 50 /50.
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post #7 of 13 Old 04-13-2018, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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we quick started the engine and it seems to be fine. We are not mechanics just know enough to be dangerous. Is there a better way to check the engine before ordering a new radiator and hoses?
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post #8 of 13 Old 04-13-2018, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Will the OEM parts work with the body lift just making sure?
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post #9 of 13 Old 04-13-2018, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffy1 View Post
Will the OEM parts work with the body lift just making sure?
Yes, though that answer also depends on what was done before to insure the radiator's fan shroud cleared the engine fan. Is there a motor mount lift? Or was the fan shroud moved down an inch so it lined up with the engine fan?

X2 on sticking with a Mopar radiator. If you have an automatic transmission make sure you get the model made for an automatic so it has the required transmission cooler ports for the transmission cooler lines to connect to.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #10 of 13 Old 04-13-2018, 02:32 PM
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There's no reason to check the engine before you replace an exploded radiator. You still need a radiator, and a stock radiator is good.

I'm at a loss for the comment about a new motor coming with a radiator. I've never heard of such a thing, but maybe it does. Lots of rebuilds come with a new water pump.

You mentioned that you changed the fluids and hoses, and seemed to imply you wonder if you caused a problem. It's very possible you didn't get the air out of the system, and that may have made it overheat or let the pump cavitate. It still should not have exploded. The radiator cap is designed to let excess pressure out. Sometimes stuff is just old, or ready to break.

Make sure you replace the radiator cap with the correct stock pressure, and use a quality cap, something like a Stanton. Personally, I'm a fan of the ones with the pressure relief lever, in case you want to get into it when it isn't completely cooled down.

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post #11 of 13 Old 04-13-2018, 02:58 PM
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There is EVERY reason to check the engine before going after this problem. The only time I saw this radiator explosion happen (on an XJ) it was due to a head gasket failure that allowed high pressure from one cylinder into the cooling system. This only happened in a hot engine.

The root cause of that particular problem was that somebody tried to use a thick, copper-clad aftermarket head gasket to replace a standard gasket that had failed. The problem cost a new radiator to fix, plus removing the engine and machining the block and cylinder head flat.

Remove all the plugs and run a compression test. If you see any traces of coolant in any cylinder, time to machine block and head and freshen the cooling system with radiator, hoses, thermostat, and gaskets.
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post #12 of 13 Old 04-13-2018, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azzkicker View Post
It's very possible you didn't get the air out of the system,
The TJ cooling system is self burping/purging and all you have to do is keep the coolant reservoir full to its proper level...
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post #13 of 13 Old 04-22-2018, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
buffy1
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I bought an OEM radiator and was going to go ahead and replace the water pump and thermostat. Now my problem is that the water pump is not coming off because of the power steering bolts are in the way. Does anyone know if I have to remove that too? I did not want to get into that. Thanks in Advance.

Also the overflow tank was completely to the top after the radiator exploded and I had made sure before we drove it that day that it was just to the full mark on a cool engine. Not sure what that means.
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