Pull tub for rust control - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-30-2019, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
Goatman#1
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Pull tub for rust control

I know the obvious things. Body mounts, fuel filler, A/C, heater, electrical, master cylinder, shifter e-brake and transfer, and fenders. But what else is involved in pulling the tub up and off so I can really get rust under control? Figure that's really the only way to get the under side and frame scrubbed and POR15. I'm sure a few ground straps will be left, but other than that am I forgetting anything? I've got an overhead chain plus a couple of loaders for the heavy part. Easy, right?

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post #2 of 13 Old 05-01-2019, 02:34 AM
sycboi
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Off the top of my head...
Body mounts
Taillight connections
Third brake light connection
Fuel filler
A/C lines
Heater hoses
Computer wire harness connections
Forward light harness
Master cylinder brake lines
Steering column shaft
Transmission shifter/cable
Emergency brake shifter/cable
Transfer case shifter
Fenders
Grille strut rods (tub side)
Hood
Battery

That’ll get you close...

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post #3 of 13 Old 05-01-2019, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
Goatman#1
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And just how difficult is this? Realistically doable by a 50+ year old guy with sciatic issues, or send it to the body shop? NY means it has to get done by someone. Or is there another way to completely coat the underside? Is pulling the drivetrain and gas tank gonna let me get to all the books and cranies?
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-01-2019, 10:15 PM
sycboi
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It’s definitely an undertaking. If you have nothing but time go about it a section at a time and get it done that way. If you have the money pay to have it done, although it probably won’t be exactly cheap. If it’s bad enough to warrant dismantling maybe consider finding a better tub/frame/Jeep. Just depends on what you really have sitting in front of you...

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post #5 of 13 Old 05-02-2019, 03:41 AM
rikkards
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If you are going to that much effort I would be doing a proper underliner than POR15. It is hard but not infallible

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post #6 of 13 Old 05-02-2019, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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What do you mean by proper underliner? I thought the POR15 was as good as it gets. The tub is in good shape now. A few salty NY winters, then not so much. Want to do what I can now. Past CJ's have shown me that waiting until it needs repair means there is no metal left to repair.
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-02-2019, 11:21 AM
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It works until it doesn't. It goes on thick (real thick) for a paint but I don't find it is as resilient as the real undercoatings. I would do a good bedliner inside and out (I think Line-X has one for underneath and Raptor and Herculiner are good inside) over POR15. It isn't an undercoating as far as I am concerned. I did my frame in 2009 and have had to patch and recoat areas every other year. It works great if you can fully encapsulate every single square inch on every side but the moment there is the smallest crack in it rust will creep underneath and all of a sudden a whole strip of paint will peel off. 2 weeks a

More or less all I can say is don't think that POR15 is a permanent solution it is better than Rustoleum but you will probably still have problems in the usual areas (i.e the torqueboxes inside the frame especially around any hole). If a proper liner is not too much of a financial burden, for the work of pulling it all apart better off doing that.

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post #8 of 13 Old 05-02-2019, 05:20 PM
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I have lifted a YJ tub off the frame for rust repair using ratchet straps and rafters. It was time consuming, but worth it if you're really going to tackle rust. I think your list of items to disconnect is correct.

However, what is the current condition of the tub? Are you sure that all you need to do is paint? No patching? What will you do about the inside of the torque boxes? Rust starts from the inside out. If you're seeing rust, it is probably deeper than you realize. You really have to get rid of it if you are going to go through this effort. Painting over rust is not reasonable.

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post #9 of 13 Old 05-02-2019, 06:00 PM
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You might find going under an easier choice since you have a loader. You can get the tank, transfer case and trans out of the way with a floor jack. Then you can lean it up with your loader and secure it. That will give you the space you need. I was able to do it alone and I used a forklift I had access to. I ground, sandblasted and epoxy coated everything one side at a time. Then did the center. It was messy though.
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-03-2019, 08:08 AM
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Is your rust bad enough to even think about doing that? If not, just wire wheel everything and spray it with some Eastwood products. If it is, sell the Jeep and buy a rust free one. The work and expense isn't worth it. Jeeps are like women, if you don't get too attached to them, it's easier to just replace them with one in better condition.

p.s. If my GF logged in here with my account, I was just joking. If not, I mean it.
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GOT IT BACK on 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
SOLD 99' XJ /4.0L-AW4/ 5.5" lift / 33" DC tires.
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post #11 of 13 Old 05-03-2019, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Damn CJ, that is enough to bring a tear to my eye! Beautiful. Just beautiful work. Can you ballpark me how many weeks it took you to get to those pictures? And what did you use to protect all that clean tin?
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post #12 of 13 Old 05-03-2019, 09:16 AM
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Some people have more dollars than (common) sense.

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TheBoogieman is a jerk.
GOT IT BACK on 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
SOLD 99' XJ /4.0L-AW4/ 5.5" lift / 33" DC tires.
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post #13 of 13 Old 05-03-2019, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatman#1 View Post
Damn CJ, that is enough to bring a tear to my eye! Beautiful. Just beautiful work. Can you ballpark me how many weeks it took you to get to those pictures? And what did you use to protect all that clean tin?
Hi Goat and Thank You. It was part of a refurb of my Scrambler. I ran it for about 8 years as my daily driver here in CT and the salt kicked it's ***. Two years back I decided to fix it up to how it was when I got it back in 05 because it was just getting too rusty. I decided to do a motor swap to make it more fun to drive too. That being said it has been down for two years and the frame and bottom of the tub portion has probably taken a quarter of that time up. Keep in mind I am working on it mainly in the summer when my business is slower and I have relatively no time in the winter to work on it. So if I had 8 hour days to put into it I probably could have got it the underside done in a month I would estimate???? I used two stage epoxy primer from a rattle then put chassis black over that, it took maybe four cansof primer. Not much money in materials, just lots of time. Here is a link to the epoxy. I got it at my local auto paint store but here is what it looks like. https://repaintsupply.com/spraymax-3...SABEgJNK_D_BwE

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