Problem after replacing Radiator, Water Pump and Stat - Overheating - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
fishnyc22
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Problem after replacing Radiator, Water Pump and Stat - Overheating

Hey guys, ran into an issue after replacing Radiator, Water Pump and Stat hoping for some guidance.

Anyway. last fall I had bypassed my heater core after it was leaking. I bought a new one, drained and flushed the system, removed the dash, replaced the core, refilled the coolant and it seemed to be working great. Over the winter, started smelling antifreeze (maple syrup) when driving around town. I opened the hood and noticed the rad was leaking (at the top where the plastic and metal are clamped together and there was a crack in plastic to the left of the cap. Wonderful. Jeep is a 2005 so it was about due (would have been nice for it to be when I just replaced the core, but whatever.

I bought a new OEM Radiator, Water pump and thermostat (as I read that it's important to do all 3 if doing the rad). Drained the system, remove the rad, water pump and stat housing, cleaned where the gaskets mounted to the block, installed the new stat with new gaskets. Installed the new water pump with new gasket. Tightened everything to torque specs. I put in about 1 container of 50/50 coolant. Tried to burp the system with the cap off, got some more coolant in (not much more). Added some to the coolant overflow reservoir. Started the car. The coolant came up pretty quick, I didnt run it for more than a few seconds before I had to turn it off. Tried burping some more, did the same thing again. Then put the cap on and ran the engine for about 10 min. I was squeezing the upper rad hose when it got really hot and hard, started seeing boiling signs in the top of the rad and ran to turn the jeep off. Temp gauge was all the way up in the red. YIKES!

Turned it off. Backed slowly away from the jeep trying not to make eye contact with it . And now I'm here to ask what the hell is going on.

Kinda freaking out. Now I'm wondering if the crack that appeared in the old rad was from some weird pressure build up. Temp gauge had never gone through the roof like that before so not sure if that is a new thing that is causing the rad to build up pressure.

Would really appreciate some guidance here. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 06:06 PM
pagrey
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You did replace the radiator cap right?

I wouldn't worry too much, just watch the temps and get out all the air from the system. The temp gauge wont read correctly until you get it full.
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post #3 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
fishnyc22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pagrey View Post
You did replace the radiator cap right?

I wouldn't worry too much, just watch the temps and get out all the air from the system. The temp gauge wont read correctly until you get it full.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, replaced the radiator cap before running it for that 8-10min run. There was a lot of pressure building up. I could see bubbling long the top seam of the radiator. Didn't seem right at all. I read somewhere that the stat may be defective. That would suck.
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post #4 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
fishnyc22
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After it cooled. I removed the rad cap, and also noticed that the reservoir is empty. So I add more coolant to the rad and the reservoir again I guess?
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post #5 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 06:20 PM
jkp
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Yes, it purged air in the system and pulled in the coolant in the jug.

It should not have built up enough pressure to make the new rad leak at the seams though. The cap should have vented the pressure before that happened.

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post #6 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
fishnyc22
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Hmm. The cap was replaced just prior to me purchasing it a year ago. I received all the paperwork for any work the shops performed. I guess it could have gone bad. Could the rad have been damaged by that pressure. I guess I'll add more coolant and give it another shot.
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post #7 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 06:31 PM
jkp
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Also verify you have the belt routed correctly so that the water pump in pumping coolant the correct direction.

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post #8 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
fishnyc22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp View Post
Also verify you have the belt routed correctly so that the water pump in pumping coolant the correct direction.
Yikes. Just panicked I routed the belt wrong. I just double checked and it appears right. I think it would be hard to get it wrong as it wouldn’t fit any other way. I followed thus diagram
https://goo.gl/images/yyuSSL
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post #9 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 06:57 PM
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Squeeze the top rad hose a bunch of times, sounds like you had an air bubble trapped in there. I like to pour coolant into the heater core hoses until it comes out the other side too.
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post #10 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 07:10 PM
pagrey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishnyc22 View Post
Yes, replaced the radiator cap before running it for that 8-10min run.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishnyc22 View Post
Hmm. The cap was replaced just prior to me purchasing it a year ago. I received all the paperwork for any work the shops performed. I guess it could have gone bad.
So you have a receipt that says your cap might have been replaced...

If the radiator leaks at the seams it is bad and needs to be replaced.

By OEM do you mean Mopar, those normally last more than 5 minutes.

Keep us in the loop, I can't wait for the next twist in this story.
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post #11 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
fishnyc22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pagrey View Post
So you have a receipt that says your cap might have been replaced...
Well yes, good point, but it does look like its new. Not caked with filth and grease.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pagrey View Post
If the radiator leaks at the seams it is bad and needs to be replaced.
Ugh. Lovely. Now is it bad because pressure built up and killed it, or was it bad to begin with?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pagrey View Post
By OEM do you mean Mopar, those normally last more than 5 minutes.
I read a lot on that before purchasing and the consensus is that the OEM parts (especially RAD) are better off than aftermarket. So I got all MOPAR parts

I guess I'll reach out and see if I can get a replacement RAD from them.
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post #12 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 10:31 PM
Freeagent27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishnyc22 View Post
Well yes, good point, but it does look like its new. Not caked with filth and grease.



Ugh. Lovely. Now is it bad because pressure built up and killed it, or was it bad to begin with?



I read a lot on that before purchasing and the consensus is that the OEM parts (especially RAD) are better off than aftermarket. So I got all MOPAR parts

I guess I'll reach out and see if I can get a replacement RAD from them.


I think I would pull your thermostat and run it without to see what happens. Could be your thermostat stuck closed possibly. You mentioned OEM radiator, assuming OEM T-stat? Be sure none of your hoses are kinked either. Could a missing spring in the lower hose cause that hose to collapse?When I changed my cooling system last year, I filled the radiator and then I filled the rest of the way through my reservoir bottle .I think the only other thing that would cause these symptoms you describe is a faulty pump.
What part of the country are you in? Is it below freezing and maybe your mixture of coolant was off causing a freeze issue?


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post #13 of 25 Old 03-12-2018, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
fishnyc22
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Hey. Thanks so much for the reply for the reply.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeagent27 View Post
I think I would pull your thermostat and run it without to see what happens. Could be your thermostat stuck closed possibly.
I suppose its worth a shot. But to do that, would I would have to remove the rad, water pump and stat housing to get to it? Or can I JUST take off the stat housing and put it back without the stat installed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeagent27 View Post
You mentioned OEM radiator, assuming OEM T-stat?
They should have been OEM as that's what I ordered. The stat looked similar but the pinhole at the top had a slightly different flap/pin in the hole than the original (if the one I took out was in fact original). I got all the parts from officialwholesaleautoparts.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeagent27 View Post
Be sure none of your hoses are kinked either. Could a missing spring in the lower hose cause that hose to collapse?
When I removed the radiator I did in fact notice that the spring was in the lower hose. I don't believe anything was kinked but I will go and check again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeagent27 View Post
When I changed my cooling system last year, I filled the radiator and then I filled the rest of the way through my reservoir bottle.
I'll give it a shot for sure. Gonna try again in the AM. I added more in the radiator and refilled the reservoir again. Was going to start it up and see what happened. But if the radiator was bubbling during the last test. I'll need to replace it either way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeagent27 View Post
I think the only other thing that would cause these symptoms you describe is a faulty pump.
Interesting. Any way to test that? The impeller seemed sound and was spinning with the wheel when I inspected it before installing. I sent an email to the place I bought it from looking to get the radiator replaced. Maybe I should be asking to replace the pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeagent27 View Post
What part of the country are you in? Is it below freezing and maybe your mixture of coolant was off causing a freeze issue?
I'm in Telluride, CO (it's milder here than the east coast). But I actually used the 50/50 mixture. I installed everything but ran out of time to fill it with coolant. I had to leave the car sitting in my garage for 3 days while I was out of town before I could add the coolant. There was nothing in it to freeze at the time and when I finally added the coolant it was 50deg out. I didnt think there was any risk adding the coolant a bit later.

Anyway. Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.
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post #14 of 25 Old 03-13-2018, 06:13 AM
JimSmith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishnyc22 View Post
Tightened everything to torque specs. I put in about 1 container of 50/50 coolant. Tried to burp the system with the cap off, got some more coolant in (not much more). Added some to the coolant overflow reservoir.
So how much coolant did you get in the entire system????

It sounds like a hair more than a gallon. The capacity of the 4.0 cooling system is 10.5 quarts or just a little less than 3 gallons.

The Stant Superstat is what you want for a thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7YRNM...&creative=9325

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post #15 of 25 Old 03-13-2018, 08:51 AM
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I replaced my radiator and thermostat and still had overheating issues, mine did turn out to be the radiator cap. It was tested at the auto supply and found to be bad. Don't trust the shininess to mean it's new, I've got caps taken off of cars several years ago that still look new.

I had a lot of issues getting all the air out of mine. Make sure you get the full amount in as @JimSmith mentioned.

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