Painted-over torx bolt breaking my bits - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
skifast1
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Painted-over torx bolt breaking my bits

Hey all - putting on a Bestop tire carrier and have to remove two T-45 bolts where the rollbar comes down to the body on the passenger side. Got the first one no problem, but the second one has 'eaten' 2 bits by shearing ff the Torx bit teeth. I suppose I could clear out some of the paint with a Dremel, but does anyone have a tried-n-true way to get out a painted over torx bolt?

FWIW, my last resort is to take a Dremel and grind away all of the paint on the bolt head and soak the hell out of it with PB blaster.

Thanks,
ski

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post #2 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 05:34 PM
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use the dremel to slice across the head making it fit a slot screwdriver?


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post #3 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 08:41 PM
Jeepin_Jeffster
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Since you're drilling, I assume you stripped them out? Otherwise, the best way is to get a breaker bar and use slow, constant pressure to break them free. A breaker bar will give you a lot more pressure to use to free them. Won't help though if you've already stripped them out.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin_Jeffster
Since you're drilling, I assume you stripped them out? Otherwise, the best way is to get a breaker bar and use slow, constant pressure to break them free. A breaker bar will give you a lot more pressure to use to free them. Won't help though if you've already stripped them out.

Doesn't sound like he stripped to bolts themselves ... just the bits he was using...
How are the Bolts??

Has anyone tried a Impact Wrench... Was working on a friends back seat and had to take the seat belt mounts out ...Took forever... ended up using a really long ratchet.. with one of us pushing down on the head .. and the other cranking the pipe slid over the end...
We thought about the impact wrench but didn't know what to think?

Mike
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 09:09 PM
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They are usually coated with Locktite. I use a propane torch to heat 'em up. Here's how I do it to keep from ruining the paint. Take a Torx and put it on an extension. Put the Torx in the bolt head and hold with pliers. Use a torch to heat the extension and Torx bit. The heat will radiate down the extension and bit, thus heating up the bolt. You can get the bolt hot enough to loosen the Locktite and still not fuk up the paint. I took some door hinges off yesterday like this and never damaged the paint on the hinge.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
skifast1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3vqh
Doesn't sound like he stripped to bolts themselves ... just the bits he was using...
How are the Bolts??
The offending bolt shows some paint stripped where it sheared off the torx bit teeth, but with both bits I was able to seat them and get a good, slow start with the breaker bar. Looking at the broken torx bits, it just looks like they're not getting deep enough in the bolt head to have enough 'bite'.

Impact wrench is a thought, though if slow steady pressure didn't do it, a hammering impact wrench on those thin torx teeth won't hold any better.

What about a screw extractor? I don't need to salvage the screw, but if there are other options to try first I'll take 'em.

Hmm - now i'm wondering if the bolt extends beneath the body to where I can see the threads underneath. If I can get a couple of nuts on the prodruding end, I can jam them together and back it out that way.

-ski
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skifast1
The offending bolt shows some paint stripped where it sheared off the torx bit teeth, but with both bits I was able to seat them and get a good, slow start with the breaker bar. Looking at the broken torx bits, it just looks like they're not getting deep enough in the bolt head to have enough 'bite'.

Impact wrench is a thought, though if slow steady pressure didn't do it, a hammering impact wrench on those thin torx teeth won't hold any better.

What about a screw extractor? I don't need to salvage the screw, but if there are other options to try first I'll take 'em.

Hmm - now i'm wondering if the bolt extends beneath the body to where I can see the threads underneath. If I can get a couple of nuts on the prodruding end, I can jam them together and back it out that way.

-ski
Are you using the cheap torx bits from the local parts house? I had some of those and thay are a POS. I ended up getting some Husky bits at HD for $19 and they work much better. Those cheap black ones strip out way too easy.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 10:01 PM
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sears has some serious torx bolts, 7 bucks a peice, i bought it after stripping the bolt, torx sucks....the heating method is what my body shop suggested to loosen the locktite.....also said a swift smack with rubber hammer may jar them lose

as for the stuck ones, i have yet to figure it out on mine
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 10:07 PM
chevtech
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Invest in Snap-On torx bits. 10 years as a grease monkey and I have only broken two. I broke 25+ of the cheap ones (Matco) before biting the bullet.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-07-2004, 10:12 PM
Dave Mathews
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What works every time for me is to use a hammer and tap the end of the socket pretty hard to break it loose then they spin right out. Hope this is better for you.
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-08-2004, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Got it!

On a hail-mary, I took a pair of channel lock pliers and got enough of a grip around the bolt head to break it free. All that paint that filled the torx hole actually gave me better grip around the round rim. When I took it out I could see red loctite all the way up the threads; no wonder it was stripping out my bits (BTW - they were Lisle brand from the Sears Hardware store)

The Bestop tire carrier is now lookin' sharp - just hope the wife doesn't notice
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