Outboard project in the works- WITH PICS! - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 26 Old 04-21-2014, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
kdukes4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Don't forget about your other limits--steering TRE misalignment capability, drive shaft joints, and your rear brake line.

IMO, that's too much shock for short arms, especially when they aren't flat at ride height and you don't have at least 6" of up travel.
Good point Imped. Is this where I've seen some add a mount that comes off the front axle and appears to center the shock right beneath the upper tower mount?

like this:


Also, in the rear, binding on the SYE/drive shaft length are a couple items that would also need to be checked/reviewed if I want a longer shock.

EDIT: I think I need to sit back and think a little before doing anything next. Now that I'm lowered, I'd like to re-claim some clearance with a UCF TT. not so sure that I really "need" to have the ultra high skid or not, it's more of a want I think. But this will also change the drive shaft a little... thoughts?


'04 tj, Outboarded
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post #17 of 26 Old 04-21-2014, 02:19 PM
LeeMasterGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdukes4 View Post
Good point Imped. Is this where I've seen some add a mount that comes off the front axle and appears to center the shock right beneath the upper tower mount?


Also, in the rear, binding on the SYE/drive shaft length are a couple items that would also need to be checked/reviewed if I want a longer shock.

EDIT: I think I need to sit back and think a little before doing anything next. Now that I'm lowered, I'd like to re-claim some clearance with a UCF TT. not so sure that I really "need" to have the ultra high skid or not, it's more of a want I think. But this will also change the drive shaft a little... thoughts?
I've got the same rear springs as you on my rig... I never snag my TT. I've got the UCF original clearance with a lo-pro mount. Granted I do snag my control arms and frame side control arm mounts from time to time... So without those I might hit my TT occasionally. Bottom line, I would think you'd be ok with the original clearance unless you start really going crazy.

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post #18 of 26 Old 04-21-2014, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
kdukes4
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Originally Posted by LeeMasterGT View Post
Is it possible to see a picture of the lower shock mounts and also how you welded the plate to the back side of the tower on top of the frame? I'm currently collecting parts for this swap. Just tryin to decide whether to go with 11 inch fox shocks or 12 inch... Decisions, decisions.
here you go man! I set them at 8*




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post #19 of 26 Old 04-21-2014, 10:13 PM
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Perfect, thanks! The mounts I'm looking at buying will be way overkill and they should work just great now that I've seen this picture.

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post #20 of 26 Old 04-22-2014, 09:53 AM
MisfitSeven
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Just curious as to why the lower shock mounts aren't parallel to the axle tubes?

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post #21 of 26 Old 04-22-2014, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
kdukes4
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Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
Just curious as to why the lower shock mounts aren't parallel to the axle tubes?

That would be somewhat of a brain fart when I mounted them. ideally they should be mounted parallel to the axle. the good news is that with this bracket type, with the bolt running fore/aft there's really no side effects to the shock just because the mount is offset. this mount style creates the least amount of binding as the axle cycles through its range of motion. so even as the axle moves up and down, the shock is resting in the mount and won't bind any. If it appears to be an issue, then I'll address it.

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post #22 of 26 Old 04-22-2014, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdukes4
That would be somewhat of a brain fart when I mounted them. ideally they should be mounted parallel to the axle. the good news is that with this bracket type, with the bolt running fore/aft there's really no side effects to the shock just because the mount is offset. this mount style creates the least amount of binding as the axle cycles through its range of motion. so even as the axle moves up and down, the shock is resting in the mount and won't bind any. If it appears to be an issue, then I'll address it.
Yes, I know. When you get the chance to test the flex/bumpstop/tire clearance you should check to see if the shock binds on the high (outside) side.

Otherwise, great job. I'm getting closer to doing mine finally. My shocks are out...board...but not out boarded... They are outside of the frame, but I want to do it the right way. Hopefully mine turns out as nice as yours.

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post #23 of 26 Old 04-22-2014, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
Yes, I know. When you get the chance to test the flex/bumpstop/tire clearance you should check to see if the shock binds on the high (outside) side.

Otherwise, great job. I'm getting closer to doing mine finally. My shocks are out...board...but not out boarded... They are outside of the frame, but I want to do it the right way. Hopefully mine turns out as nice as yours.
Thanks! I think I remember seeing some photo's of your setup on a thread or two as I was gathering notes and doing my research. I may have time this weekend and I'll double check things. This is also why I made the curve on the walls of the lower shock tab. to give the shock eyelet a high range of motion as it moves with the axle without any interference from the mount itself.

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post #24 of 26 Old 04-22-2014, 09:21 PM
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Yessss
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post #25 of 26 Old 04-22-2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven
Yessss
What's wrong with this way if you have the room for the shock to flex without frame contact?

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post #26 of 26 Old 04-22-2014, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
kdukes4
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I think I see where you're going here. It's a little hard to tell in the photo above but the shock can above the eyelet will in no way hit the mount. the shock would need to rotate to a < 60* angle from the center of the axis on that photo. I made sure to check this when I made them. If the shock did bind with the mount, I think i'd have more than just that shock mount to worry about.

As the axle falls the shock will fall in line with the center of the mount. as the axle rises, the shock body's angle will become steeper per se to the mount, but should still clear from any contact because of the curved walls of the mount. The more I think about it, I think this is why I angled the mount in this position. if mounted level, as the axle would drop and swing, I was afraid this would expose the possibility of contact with the shock adjuster knob and the mount, so angling it slightly, would give me some safety room.

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