New parts, new wobble - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-23-2019, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
dankleader420
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03 wrangler, 4 inch lift, 33's

So I just upgraded my stock draglink/trackbar to a beefier one and swapped out my stock track bar to a JKS adjustable track bar. Was not having issues really with the stock ones, just a bit of loose steering so figured I'd upgrade some parts with a bonus I got. Plus I have a 4 inch lift so the parts were starting to get extra wear on them. Anyway, after the install I eyeballed the toe in and took it to get an alignment shop to get it dialed in. Took it out for a drive and the steering still feels loose and has play in the steering wheel still. When I was going about 55 I hit a decent bump in the road and got some major death wobble that wouldn't stop until I slowed down to 5-10 mph. Drove around some more to try to replicate it but could not. Went home and double checked everything was tight and it was. Decided to drive it to work tonight and didn't have any problems until I was almost to work and hit another rough part of road going about 45 and got the wobble again that wouldn't stop until I came to almost a comple stop. Any ideas what could be causing this? Or why my steering is still loose after these upgrades? parts were torqued to spec and greased before driving.

I'm suspecting the trackbar, but I don't know if that is how it's supposed to be or not. The chassis side I can move with my hand on the spherical urathane bushing. I can't move where it's actually bolted but I can move the whole trackbar easily because of that ball joint. Is that right? I have a video but don't know how to post it.

EDIT: added video in the comments.


Last edited by dankleader420; 10-23-2019 at 10:39 PM. Reason: add link to video
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-23-2019, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
dankleader420
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Here is the video...I don't think I should be able to move the track bar like that but I have never had a bushing like that.

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post #3 of 16 Old 10-23-2019, 11:29 PM
OldGloryLJ
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Are you sure the jam nut is tight? With a rubber bushing on the axle side it should not rotate like that.
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-23-2019, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
dankleader420
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It should be but I guess that is one I didn't double check. I will make sure that is tight
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-24-2019, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
dankleader420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGloryLJ View Post
Are you sure the jam nut is tight? With a rubber bushing on the axle side it should not rotate like that.
Looks like that was it. I had tightened it when I installed it. I'm wondering if they loosened that well doing an alignment and forgot to tighten it or if maybe I didn't quite tighten it down tight enough and it loosened itself up while driving. Either way, thanks for the help! I will probably throw some lock Tite on there to make sure it doesnt come loose again. Next step is swapping out coils! 😀
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-24-2019, 06:09 AM
Ironhead
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what ft lb are you tightening it down to? if properly secured, theres no need for loctite.

as for the coils, are they not giving you the ride height that you want?

are you running the OEM pitman arm?


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post #7 of 16 Old 10-24-2019, 07:28 AM
Ross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dankleader420 View Post
Looks like that was it. I had tightened it when I installed it. I'm wondering if they loosened that well doing an alignment and forgot to tighten it or if maybe I didn't quite tighten it down tight enough and it loosened itself up while driving. Either way, thanks for the help! I will probably throw some lock Tite on there to make sure it doesnt come loose again. Next step is swapping out coils! 😀
I have an older Currie that looks like that. I installed in about 2002-2003. I haven't had to retightened the lock nut since. The bolt to the frame did loosen and I would retightened and used lock tight. It ended coming loose again and breaking (scary ride for my wife). I got a new bolt and but a two nuts on it. That was maybe 10 years ago and no problems since.

01TJ33sWarn,ARBs F&R,bellyup,4.0,4.56s,5spd
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-24-2019, 09:19 AM
jjandascog
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Have you done a "Dry Steering Test" to see if you have some more loose/worn parts under there?

2004 Jeep TJ Sport, 4.0, Auto, 3.5 SL, 1.25" BL, BFG's cool mud jack across the hood
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-24-2019, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
dankleader420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
what ft lb are you tightening it down to? if properly secured, theres no need for loctite.

as for the coils, are they not giving you the ride height that you want?

are you running the OEM pitman arm?
Frame side was 110 ft lbs and axle side was 55 ft lbs. The jam nut I just grabbed some channel locks and tightened the **** out of it.

The coils are fine height wise. They are Fabtech and seem to be built for a fully loaded and heavier jeep and are making for a rough ride. Not sure on the actual spring rate. I have already replaced shocks with bilisteen 5100 and have my tires aired down to i believe 18psi. Im running KM2's so I know the load range E tires are not helping, but I was on load range D tires before and it was just as bad. Im not sure what else the rouch ride could be coming from besides the coils, so I am going to try that and then go from there. I have already bought some Currie coils and will be getting those installed this weekend. The current coils are about 8 years old and starting to rust anyway, so it was time to upgrade. Northern Utah turns everything to rust.

Yes OEM pitman arm and no drop brackets.

After I get the coils installed I will be looking to get some adjustable control arms to help fix my caster angle, which will help with the wandering on the road.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-25-2019, 07:31 AM
Ironhead
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JKS recommends 135 and 65.

can't go wrong with currie coils.

18psi is a bit low for the road


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post #11 of 16 Old 10-25-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
dankleader420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
JKS recommends 135 and 65.

can't go wrong with currie coils.

18psi is a bit low for the road
I will tighten em up. I guess the specs I was looking at were for stock parts.

I know 18 is low but you can't even tell they are deflated because of the 10 ply and the light jeep. I'm gunna see how the coils ride and then possibly sell/trade the tires and get a load range d tire. I only have about 5k miles on the tires so should be able to get a fair amount back for them.
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-25-2019, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dankleader420 View Post
I know 18 is low but you can't even tell they are deflated because of the 10 ply and the light jeep. I'm gunna see how the coils ride and then possibly sell/trade the tires and get a load range d tire. I only have about 5k miles on the tires so should be able to get a fair amount back for them.
When I had my E rated tires (Yokohama Geolander ATS 245/75r16) I was at 20 psi. So 18 wouldn't be to low.. IMO
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post #13 of 16 Old 10-25-2019, 02:41 PM
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When I had my E rated tires (Yokohama Geolander ATS 245/75r16) I was at 20 psi. So 18 wouldn't be to low.. IMO
Not too low for even tread wear, but too low for max MPG.

Wonder what your MPG difference is between 18 and maybe 26 or so PSI? Be interesting to know.
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-26-2019, 10:52 AM
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It look like youíve still got the OEM upper arms.. IMO for a 4 in lift they are too short and you have a caster issue thatís causing the death wobble.
As far as ride quality goes.. go ahead and put the curries on.. you said the others are rusting anyway so why not.. not donít be too surprised if the ride doesnít improve in the way youíre expecting.. youíve already acknowledged that you need to get rid of the load range E tires and that will help the most.. the other is the 5100 shocks.. some people like them, some donít due to how they respond to small bumps or washboard type roads. Good luck and post your results
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post #15 of 16 Old 10-26-2019, 11:13 AM
Ross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dankleader420 View Post

After I get the coils installed I will be looking to get some adjustable control arms to help fix my caster angle, which will help with the wandering on the road.
You'll find a lot of conversation about various brands of control arms. The thing you want to make sure you get is at least one side that flexes, it's adjustable in there are no polyurethane joints in it. I have had RC adjustable arms for almost seven years now and only had one issue because how I ran my exhaust. You'll find a lot of people here hate on RC. They still sell fixed arms with polyurethane joints that are nothing I would recommend. My kid just got an XJ and it has some RC shocks on it they do ride rough.

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