My plans to fit 35's - will it work? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
alex_c
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My plans to fit 35's - will it work?

So my original build plan was for 33's..but I figured with the 8.8 swap, 35's might be better.

I'm going to do a 3" coil up front and 2" spacer in the rear with a 1" BL/MML and trimmed flares. SYE, and Currie arms will also be going in. I already have longer shocks, bumpstop extensions, and extended sway bar links.

The front axle will be a D30 with 4.10 gears. The rear is a 8.8 w/LSD and 4.10 gears.

I plan on (eventually) going up to 4.88's with an HP D30 up front, but that's not in the budget right now. 4.10's and 35's isn't perfect but it's still better than the 3.07's and 31's I'm running now.

I will be getting an adjustable track bar for the front, and maybe an adjustable one for the rear, depending on whether or not the height of the aftermarket 8.8 track bar bar bracket is much higher than the stock one (plus the added height of the axle tube etc)

Brakes will probably be centric rotors with EBC pads and steering will get an v8 ZJ tie rod.

Oh, and I'm torn between KM2's and MT/R Kevlars. Leaning towards the goodyears as they apparently have good road manners and are longer wearing (this jeep will be a DD)

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post #2 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 12:21 PM
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I would highly consider upgrading your entire steering setup. If you can't afford the currie go with the crown upgrade. I only have 33' but I can drive down the highway at 55mph and steer my Jeep with one finger. You may also want to consider the Durango steering box upgrade.

The brake upgrade seems ok but I would flush and run new brake fluid just to freshen things up.

With that amount of lift in mind be prepared to bump stop to the hills. You will mostly likely realize that your jeep rides aweful due to your axles constantly making contact with the bump stops. The only fix for this is more ride height or some trimming.

I have 2.5" up front and 2" in the rear at the moment. 1 1/4 BL and I still have to run 3" of BS of front, I would imagine 35's would require at least another inch.

Food for thought, good luck.

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post #3 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 12:35 PM
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Before I had tube fenders I was hitting the front fenders (with 4 inch lift) With the addition of tube fenders I have no clearance issues in the front. The backs only once in a great while will touch the outside of the fender flare.

(I am running 4.10's with 35's as well.. I have a plan for that.. a 5.9 engine swap lol)
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post #4 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 12:40 PM
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post #5 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
alex_c
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bleh... Maybe I'll stick with the 33's for now. Maybe when they start to wear out I'll have the cash to get the 35's done right. 33's with 4" of total lift and 4.10's looks like it will be better overall performance for a DD and will put less stress on the drive train. I want to do things properly, that's why I'm asking you guys for your opinions on the above setup.

I wheel the snot out of my jeep on 31's, so 35's are really appealing as I won't have to beat on it as hard to get where I wanna go. I guess 33's would be a good compromise. I'm a big fan of building once but I think the setup I have now will be upgradeable to 35's down the road without wasting too much money. Maybe lockers and full armor would be a better investment than getting 35's to just barely work.
DECISIONS DECISIONS....
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post #6 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 01:04 PM
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Sounds like you have everything figured out. I went with the MT/Rs cuz I found a better deal on them, but both tires are a great choice. You can't go wrong with either

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post #7 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 01:09 PM
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Here, look at these... I'd stick with 35s and buy a set of these and just trim the rears....

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ne...angler-959981/

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post #8 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 01:16 PM
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This is almost exactly what I plan on doing to a t. The only difference is I plan on going to 33's while I save up for the other things needed for 35's. By the time I can save up for all these things I figure the 33's would be worn enough to replace, especially if I get some used ones with some decent tread.
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post #9 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Those flares look pretty sweet, but unfortunately they won't be V.I. friendly where I live due to wheel coverage laws.
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post #10 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 01:33 PM
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As already stated above, you should be able to clear no problem as long as you don't mind highlining your setup. By December I should have 2.5" of lift with 35x12.5s. Search for rs4race's build thread on the forum. Should give you a good idea of what it'll look like if you go that route.

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post #11 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Highline is out of my budget as of this point in time.
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post #12 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Here's another question, did you notice a HUGE difference in off road performance when you went from 33's to 35's?

Is it really worth the extra 2 grand to make it work properly?
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post #13 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex_c View Post
Is it really worth the extra 2 grand to make it work properly?
It is if you plan on going bigger than 35s in the future. But where are you getting the 2 grand number from? Besides the brake and steering upgrade, everything else you need for 35s you should be doing for 33s anyways.

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post #14 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex_c View Post
Here's another question, did you notice a HUGE difference in off road performance when you went from 33's to 35's?

Is it really worth the extra 2 grand to make it work properly?
I ran my 35's last weekend for the first time (had 33's prior) and at least on the trails and hills I was on, the 35's did not make much difference. I've lost some power and so far, I am not overly impressed. I can attribute some of that to not having low enough gearing.
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post #15 of 43 Old 07-29-2010, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGipe View Post
It is if you plan on going bigger than 35s in the future. But where are you getting the 2 grand number from? Besides the brake and steering upgrade, everything else you need for 35s you should be doing for 33s anyways.
If you had read my original post, you'd see that the axles I plan on putting in already have 4.10 gears, so add cost of gearing for another $1000 minimum for both axles.

I plan on running a 33x10.5, which means I can use my stock rims, and don't have to worry about wheel coverage. Tires must be fully covered where I live to pass V.I. Don't forget about the additional backspacing required for a 35x12.5 tire!

$600 for extended flares
$250 for 4 of the cheapest wheels possible

Plus the cost of 35's vs 33's
~$25-40 a tire more

I'm pretty sure that puts us right around the $2000 mark!
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