MML install total disaster - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
cbmadcow
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MML install total disaster

As stated I tackled my MML install today, and had a total disaster.

I followed the directions from this link:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/MML.html

What was happening is when I got the original mounts off trying to raise my engine to get the through bolt in was just not happening. I was lifting the engine right from the front it would lift about 1/2" then the both the frame and engine would start to lift. I did remove the transmission bolts. Should I also remove my TC drop (will that help)?

Are you people really sure about not needing and Body lift to have this? I was told in a previous thread that I do not need a 1" BL yet this site says I do.

Please any help would be greatly appreciated.

After about 4.5 hours of work I was able to get the originals back in.

Kevin



Previously owned jeeps:
1993 Wrangler YJ 4.0L 5 speed
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post #2 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 10:01 PM
CETROV
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check the fan and make sure you are not hitting the shroud.
check you exhaust and make sure it is not hitting the body.
Check trans and the top of the bell housing area.

you should have the mml if you did a body lift - to help align the radiator and shrould. also with the suspension lift - this will also help to lessen the drive line angle and avoid vibrations. 4

Been driving the same TJ since 2001.
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post #3 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 10:12 PM
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It took me about 30 minutes this afternoon to install More 1" MML. An air gun and a long extension make it much easier. I don't have a body lift.

I put these in because one of my mounts was broken. Make sure your transmisson mount is loose and your fan shround unbolted.

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post #4 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 10:23 PM
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Where were you jacking from?

Try jacking from the bellhousing.. you do not need a 1" body lift to install a 1" MML.


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post #5 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
cbmadcow
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Hey people,

Fan shroud was removed, Trans bolts were removed, Nothing was hitting.
I was first jacking from the oil pan with a 2x4 to distribute the load.
At the front of the engine is the balancer, i was just behind it. I believe that is the bell housing.

Kevin


Previously owned jeeps:
1993 Wrangler YJ 4.0L 5 speed
1998 TJ 4.0L 5 speed
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post #6 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbmadcow
Hey people,

Fan shroud was removed, Trans bolts were removed, Nothing was hitting.
I was first jacking from the oil pan with a 2x4 to distribute the load.
At the front of the engine is the balancer, i was just behind it. I believe that is the bell housing.

Kevin
Jacking from the oil pan is fine, just know that the coils will pop up a bit as the load of the engine is relieved off of them... and as a result, the frame will come with the engine for a couple of inches. Same thing happens when installing a body lift.


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post #7 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well next sunday I'm going to tackle this again.

So what it sounds like is i need to lift the engine a lot more. Need some more 2x4 extensions on my jack.
So how far up is too far?
Can I break anything if I lift the engine too much.

Kevin


Previously owned jeeps:
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post #8 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 11:49 PM
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Just jack it up some and look inside the engine compartment to make sure that the motor is not hitting the firewall. If it makes contact with the firewall that is pretty much as far as it is going to go..
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post #9 of 20 Old 12-02-2007, 11:50 PM
Jerry Bransford
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I hope you're installing one side at a time and not trying to do both at once. Jack the engine up using a 2x4 between the jack and engine, near where the new motor mount is being installed. There was/is no need to undo ANYTHING other than the specific mount you are replacing. Once that is done, then switch to the other mount.

One of the bolts is difficult to get in and out but keep jiggling things around and eventually the bolt will slip right out or in and you won't even know how it happened. I've done this four times and each time it was like this.

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post #10 of 20 Old 12-03-2007, 02:12 AM
Roland's06RubiLJ
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I did the right side 1st, just lift enough to relieve pressure on bolt then slide out and replace with new 1" MML. For left side i had to remove the motor mount bracket from the engine block to slide bolt out and replace MML, not a hassle just takes a few more moments. Turned out sweet, good luck.
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post #11 of 20 Old 12-03-2007, 06:29 AM
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I removed the entire MM bracket, three bolts, from the driver's side, this made my install a bit smoother given the additional room.
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post #12 of 20 Old 12-03-2007, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by betorok
I removed the entire MM bracket, three bolts, from the driver's side, this made my install a bit smoother given the additional room.
ditto i believe this is what my jks bmml instructions said to do as well

dont ask for it; go win it on your own, do that and you will succeed
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post #13 of 20 Old 12-03-2007, 07:16 AM
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X2 made it WAY easier by removing the entire DS mount.

Dave Shannon
Durango, CO


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post #14 of 20 Old 12-03-2007, 07:35 AM
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If you still are having problems, try lossen up the TC shifter mount (the four bolts on the driver side tunnel.) It may be binding.

Also, leave everything loose until you get both mounts in. Then tighten it all down. Good luck!

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post #15 of 20 Old 12-03-2007, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
cbmadcow
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Thanks for all the replies jeepers.

As stated above I was following the directions from the link I posted. I did remove the TC bolts, I did remove the fan shroud and radiator overflow, I did try one at a time. On the drivers side I did remove the mount attached to the engine.

I don't mean to be harsh I just wish people would read the entire thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
I hope you're installing one side at a time and not trying to do both at once. Jack the engine up using a 2x4 between the jack and engine, near where the new motor mount is being installed. There was/is no need to undo ANYTHING other than the specific mount you are replacing. Once that is done, then switch to the other mount.

One of the bolts is difficult to get in and out but keep jiggling things around and eventually the bolt will slip right out or in and you won't even know how it happened. I've done this four times and each time it was like this.

Jerry I was doing one at a time but i could not get the engine to go high enough so then I tried both at the same time. I think I am going to try your method jack it up from the mounts. In the end putting the originals back in that is what I had to do I put the jack right under the mount and lifted it up as high as it could go to get the bolt in.

Kevin


Previously owned jeeps:
1993 Wrangler YJ 4.0L 5 speed
1998 TJ 4.0L 5 speed
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