MetalCloak Arched or Poison Spyder XC - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
grininmonkey
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MetalCloak Arched or Poison Spyder XC

I just about have the ol PayPal balance loaded up enough for my next mod.. Front Fenders.

Originally I was set on MC Arched fenders, but recently started thinking about the PSC XC High-Line.

MC Arched (Powder Coated with LED kit and shipped) roughly $887 and likely 4 weeks until delivery

PSC XC 3" (Raw Metal without LED and optional Vented Inner Kit shipped) roughly $859 and in stock.

I understand the difference in work and modification between the two. MC fenders will not require hacking/cutting relocation etc... as the High-Line approach will require.

Its not the work, but rather or not the extra work will be worth it in the end for my Jeep. Im sorta at a cross-roads.

I only started considering the PSC XCs because of my low lift and the thought of taking advantage of the weee bit more clearance gained over the MCs using a High-Line fender... and the fact I can get those now and not have to wait until next month. But I will still have to pay more for painting/coating, LED markers... etc..

I am using 2.5" RC springs and actually ridding more so in a 3" range. There is no question that 35" tire and High-Lines will work.. but I wonder about 35" tire and MC arched fender.

What are some thoughts from those who have installed either one of those fenders?

Other suggestions ?

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post #2 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 12:37 PM
biffgnar
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I believe the XCs give you more than a wee bit more clearance. In addition to raising the fender line they open up the wheel well.

I believe MC materially exaggerates the gains from the arched fenders. Then there are the aesthetics of the arched fenders. Personally, not my thing.

XCs are one of only two fenders I would run. You don't see them much though as the hood work/replacement scares away a lot of people.
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post #3 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 12:44 PM
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The MC fenders don't actually move up the flat part of your fender (where the hood sits).
Much more clearance gained from the PS XCs.
Don't forget that you also have to buy the inner fender kit to go with the XCs. (or make your own)
And, as stated, you will have to buy a hood or cut yours.


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post #4 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
I believe the XCs give you more than a wee bit more clearance. In addition to raising the fender line they open up the wheel well.

I believe MC materially exaggerates the gains from the arched fenders. Then there are the aesthetics of the arched fenders. Personally, not my thing.

XCs are one of only two fenders I would run. You don't see them much though as the hood work/replacement scares away a lot of people.
Yeah... I feel ya on the aesthetics. I'm not scared to cut my hood etc.. but just wonder how many gotchas I might run into. I found a few somewhat decent write-ups and it doesn't seem to much of a challenge but rather just a time consuming job.

One good point made by someone in another thread was.. the XCs have no "choice" on fender flare where as MCs you can run without a flare and if you are driving thru a state that requires flares etc.. you can slap a flare on in a few minutes. A good point.. but I have no Clue if I would be visiting such states that have strict tire coverage laws.
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post #5 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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I tried to call Sales at PSC twice now to find out the weight difference between the Steel and Aluminum. I am curious as to how much one weighs over the other... with low lift springs one thought was to use the Aluminum to counter act additional weight from bumper + winch.. but if compared to stock its minimal difference.. then I should be ok with the lower cost steel variety?
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post #6 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 12:51 PM
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I'm the wrong one to ask that question.
If I can get something in aluminum I'm going to do it.
I hate freaking rust!




I have been eyeballing the PS XC DeFender 3" tapered flare aluminum version for a long time.
Just been too cheap to do it...


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post #7 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
One good point made by someone in another thread was.. the XCs have no "choice" on fender flare where as MCs you can run without a flare and if you are driving thru a state that requires flares etc.. you can slap a flare on in a few minutes. A good point.. but I have no Clue if I would be visiting such states that have strict tire coverage laws.
A non-issue. If your vehicle is legal in its state of registration you do not need to worry about other states you may be transitting.
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post #8 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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A non-issue. If your vehicle is legal in its state of registration you do not need to worry about other states you may be transitting.
I have heard it both ways, but havn't cared enough to actually look at authoritative information.. Im in South Carolina, so as long as you have working Brake Lights and a seat belt.. its legal.
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post #9 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
I have heard it both ways, but havn't cared enough to actually look at authoritative information.. Im in South Carolina, so as long as you have working Brake Lights and a seat belt.. its legal.
It is not a question. That reciprocity among states is part of the foundation of the country. You may find LEOs in the wrong mood who will write the ticket, but it will never hold up.
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post #10 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotURMailman View Post
I'm the wrong one to ask that question.
If I can get something in aluminum I'm going to do it.
I hate freaking rust!




I have been eyeballing the PS XC DeFender 3" tapered flare aluminum version for a long time.
Just been too cheap to do it...
Yeah... roughly 200 buck difference between steel and aluminum... and the tapered is the exact one I am eyeballing myself.

If I get aluminum.. I can put of painting it for while right
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post #11 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 02:48 PM
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I've been looking at doing the XC's also.

Two things that I have found, not sure if you are aware, but will add to cost.

Your stock airbox will not fit, so you need to go with a CAI of some sort...

Also It doesn't look like the stock windshield wiper fluid container will fit either, so a small one will need to be sourced.

It looks like you can retain the stock hood latches. I would prefer to just go with hood pins though.
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post #12 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Superjay5 View Post
I've been looking at doing the XC's also.

Two things that I have found, not sure if you are aware, but will add to cost.

Your stock airbox will not fit, so you need to go with a CAI of some sort...

Also It doesn't look like the stock windshield wiper fluid container will fit either, so a small one will need to be sourced.

It looks like you can retain the stock hood latches. I would prefer to just go with hood pins though.
At first I thought it would be nicer to have the hood pins.. but then you are left with an empty dent where the latches where.. but that's just OCD I think..

I will try to find the thread, but one fella got the stock air box to work by simply removing the cone, but I have thought about doing the air filter in the center/middle vent near the windshield thing as well.

The windshield fluid thing I knew about... but haven't researched what the replacement that would work... would be.

EDIT: This guy was able to re-use the stock air box: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/po...stall-2119161/
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post #13 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 03:06 PM
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I think the aluminum is the way to go. Here's how I setup my engine compartment. The washer fluid is from a cherokee and it accepts two pumps so my hard top washer still works.
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post #14 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
At first I thought it would be nicer to have the hood pins.. but then you are left with an empty dent where the latches where.. but that's just OCD I think..

I will try to find the thread, but one fella got the stock air box to work by simply removing the cone, but I have thought about doing the air filter in the center/middle vent near the windshield thing as well.

The windshield fluid thing I knew about... but haven't researched what the replacement that would work... would be.
Good deal, just things to add to the cost of it all. I figured to go the XC route its gonna be close to $1,000 when you are all said and done with it. Throw in some paint if you go that route and it can climb even higher depending if you have the ability to paint or not.

This is prolly my next upgrade also. So I have been researching away...

I don't mind the small indents left from the latches in the hood, at least it removes the holes. Poison Spyder mentions that the stock hood latches can be retained, just looking at pictures I just don't see how. I have yet to see a picture of someone using stock latches. I get your OCD though.... I may have a little of my own.

They do make a nice edge molding that has glue inside, you can trim the cut end of your hood to finish it off a little nicer. I believe the company is called trim guard. They do have it in a lot of colors I believe, they may have one that matches the color of your jeep.... depending on color
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post #15 of 74 Old 06-03-2016, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 4lowco View Post
I think the aluminum is the way to go. Here's how I setup my engine compartment. The washer fluid is from a cherokee and it accepts two pumps so my hard top washer still works.
XJ or SJ Fluid Tank?
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