Lj rubicon air locker diff in an lj? Will it fit - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
jetties2003
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Lj rubicon air locker diff in an lj? Will it fit

I have an 2004 jeep lj that i lifted and now i feel like i need 410 gears. It has 373's and it dosent run to well in overdrive with the 33's on the highway. There is a guy that has an 06 rear factory jeep lj rubicon air locker with 410 gears for sale for $250 near me. Thats all it comes with though. Does anyone know if it will fit and what else i would need. I know i will need a compressor and he said something about the actuator deal.......he reused the piece. He said he installed a front factory air locker in the rear because it is stronger and reused some of the parte. It only has 8000 miles on it. He just switched to a heavier duty one. I have a dana 44 stock axle in the back. Anything helps thanks

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post #2 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:08 PM
Sweeney
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Not a lot to go on, but...

Does it come with the pinion gear? You know you'll also need to change the front gears too, right?
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post #3 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:15 PM
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Yes it works, I did this last summer when I blew my pinion gear.
Here is the instructions we used from someone on the net, don;t remember who. The only differance was I used a Rubicon air pump. Everything is working great.

Gord

For starters, fit the locker with set up bearings and without preload shims with the air actuator in place and mark the bearing cap for air line nipple clearance. I can tell you now that you have to notch DEEP into the bearing cap. Roughly halfway if my memory serves correct. Pretty sure I used a 1/4" end mill. I suppose you could use a 4.5" angle grinder for the bearing cap mods, but I personally wouldn't.

Yes, the right bearing cap needs to be milled making it narrower on the inside. Otherwise, even though it appears to fit, the air actuator gets shoved/cocked all the way to the left when the bearing cap bolts are torqued down, engaging the locker. It will not disengage...at all. And it's not fully engaged either...it will make some awful racket if you try and drive it...I test drove slowly around my yard. One lap and pulled back in the garage and yanked the rear back out. I do not remember how much I milled off. This was a long time ago. I think it was around .125. I think .090 would have cleared, but I didn't want to do this twice and took off some extra material just to be sure. If you want exact dimensions, like I said, you have to wait on me to pull the diff cover and measure. But I'm busy. And it's not real high up on my priority list right now.

My advice is don't rush. Remove small amounts of material at a time and do multiple test fits. Take a short piece of fuel hose and pressurize the actuator with 7-10 psi of air to test engagement and disengagement. When it works your done.

Double check when the ring and pinion is set up and carrier preload is established just to make sure nothing is in a bind.

Yes, use the "thick" Dana 44 gears like used on the Rubicon. Have fun with the ring gear bolt/sleeve spacer issue...

As for air line, I used fuel line. It'll easilly handle the pressure, and is oil, grease, fuel, and ozone resistant.

Since this is a low pressure system unlike an ARB, I cheated. I got two air line nipples and a very short section of pipe...basically a coupler. I drilled a hole into the diff cover parallel to it's mounting face in a area that allowed the most clearance from the rotating parts inside. I tig welded this inside and out. A short piece of hose connects the actuator ring to the nipple inside the cover, and then there is a nipple outisde of the cover pointing straight up. Air line connects there and runs up front to my ARB air compressor. Why drill the housing if you don't have to?

Up at the compressor I'm using a Norgren micro regulator to step the ARB's normally high pressure down to a low pressure the Rubicon actuator can handle. The regulator is 1/4" pipe in and out, and handles 0-25 PSI. Got it from McMaster...
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post #4 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:29 PM
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um not quiet sure how mechanically inclined you are but do you know how to set up gears? I.E. install them? cause if you dont its gonna cost you a grand pretty much in labor plus you have to regear the front OBVIOUSLY. so i might be cheaper just to buy a brand new arb or detroit or ected or ect.......good luck
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post #5 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:30 PM
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just saw that was your first post WELCOME!
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post #6 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:37 PM
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Yep it will work and yes a front is stronger. Since he has already had it in a rear diff he has already shaved the locker so it should be a simple install. I'd take it to a good gear guy and have him regear the jeep but honestly if your paying for a regear go to 4:56 not 4:10. It's much better for your tire size.


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post #7 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Recoil View Post
Yep it will work and yes a front is stronger. Since he has already had it in a rear diff he has already shaved the locker so it should be a simple install. I'd take it to a good gear guy and have him regear the jeep but honestly if your paying for a regear go to 4:56 not 4:10. It's much better for your tire size.
Make that 4.88, his Unlimited will have the 42RLE.
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post #8 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:53 PM
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Or a 6 speed like mine. If he's running 33s 4:88 would be a little deep.

Hey OP what transmission you running?


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post #9 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Recoil View Post
Or a 6 speed like mine. If he's running 33s 4:88 would be a little deep.

Hey OP what transmission you running?
2004 MY Unlimiteds only came with the 42RLE.
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post #10 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 07:06 PM
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I was unaware the first gen unlimited was only available with the auto. If that's the case 4:88 it is.


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post #11 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newguy2005 View Post
um not quiet sure how mechanically inclined you are but do you know how to set up gears? I.E. install them? cause if you dont its gonna cost you a grand pretty much in labor plus you have to regear the front OBVIOUSLY. so i might be cheaper just to buy a brand new arb or detroit or ected or ect.......good luck
A grand in labor for a locker install and gear set up in one axle? You got ripped off if you think it should cost that.

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Jeepinmichguy is a jerk.
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post #12 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
jetties2003
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Hey thanks man u guys are quick yes i am mechanically inclined. Im an aicraft mech. Just did a 3.5 rubicon express install amoung soe other goodies. Looks like i might just do it. Thanks. Thanks. Thanks
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post #13 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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456 or 488 sure seems like alot a gear. I drive it daily. Do you guys really think 410's are to high a gear?
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post #14 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 07:58 PM
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Well I don't have your transmission but for me 4:88 on 35s are perfect. But I have the 6 speed. From what the dude above me earlier said you would be happier running 4:88 with your 33s. I suggest you do a search but I am certain you will regret putting 4:10s in when you could have gone deeper.


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post #15 of 16 Old 12-16-2010, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetties2003 View Post
456 or 488 sure seems like alot a gear. I drive it daily. Do you guys really think 410's are to high a gear?
In a word? Yes

I have 33's, auto and 4:10s The first thing I do every time I drive is turn the OD off. For me (not exactly living in hill country) it is tolerable, that's it. You can't go deeper than 4:88 with your D30 front.

The only advantage for you going 4:10 is you just have to change the front to match the rear. If you are able to change both go 4:88 , you'll never regret it.

When I regear I'm going either 5:13 or 5:38
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