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-   -   Lift and gears (https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/lift-gears-3564690/)

365Jeep 01-03-2016 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knuckelhead
Keeping the wheels centered in the wheel wells is important for clearance when articulating the suspension... HTH

True, but there are plenty of reasonable lifts out there based on the stock control arms. IMO, the main value for a "normal" lift of 3"-4" is in the spherical type ends over the adjustability. Clearly the ideal is to have all 8 adjustable for fine tuning, but, if budget is a concern, I would prioritize the uppers.

365Jeep 01-03-2016 11:06 PM

Yeah, I'm pretty sure my last response is contradictory.

Knuckelhead 01-03-2016 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knuckelhead (Post 33436746)
Both upper and lower axle control arms come into play when changing chassie lift and drivetrain. The front upper control arms may not need to be addressed in most cases with 4" and lower lifts.
Keeping the wheels centered in the wheel wells is important for clearance when articulating the suspension... HTH

Quote:

Originally Posted by 365Jeep (Post 33436858)
True, but there are plenty of reasonable lifts out there based on the stock control arms. IMO, the main value for a "normal" lift of 3"-4" is in the spherical type ends over the adjustability. Clearly the ideal is to have all 8 adjustable for fine tuning, but, if budget is a concern, I would prioritize the uppers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 365Jeep (Post 33436898)
Yeah, I'm pretty sure my last response is contradictory.

I stand by my last post, like it or not... ;)

Jeeper69 01-04-2016 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WKdeuce (Post 33425810)
I wish I was back in college saving for a TJ build.
Hold onto your money for a bit while you're figuring it out.
A 4 banger will only produce so much torque.
A D35 rear will only live through so much torque.
Going from 4.10s to 4.88s, if done by a shop, you're likely to be about $2000 out the door.
(I'm sure someone will tell me that number is wrong by some marginal amount)
That two grand is a lot of cost opportunity for a young man, and isn't going to deliver in spades.
Sure, it will allow you to get slightly larger tires on your Jeep, and make it slightly cooler.
Problem is, if you only go maybe once a month, the fun delta between a 4.88/33" 2.5L TJ and a 4.10/32" 2.5L TJ, is going to be barely noticeable, especially if you're open/open.
If I had your Jeep, money, responsibilities, (and your seemingly infinite supply of potential future wives), I'd get a lunchbox locker for the front, and keep a few dollars in the bank for whatever maintenance might come up.
A front autolocker is one of the most cost effective dollars to performance you can do in one of these things.
I'd keep that TJ in top condition for whatever life might throw at me.

Easy for me to say as a monday morning quarterback talking.
Good luck with your schooling and your Jeep, in that order.

:cheers:

I second what this guy said.

rda616 01-04-2016 04:54 AM

You will be ok with the RC arms. Just take care in assembly of the flex joints they give you, or they will fail. If they do fail you can replace them with a real Johnny Joint. Personally I would buy a set of used Currie, or Savvy arms off the classified adds here when they come available. If you don't do a SYE and double cardan driveshaft you will be setting the rear arms to stock length anyway. The front adjustable arms will be the only adjustment you will likely make to correct caster.

Metalcloak is the only adjustable track bar I would buy for a 2.5" lift.

I would also suggest Old Man Emu shocks.

Ben 01-04-2016 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 365Jeep (Post 33436530)
That's up to you. The main advantage is articulation and flexibility. The next is adjustability.

An added bonus to lowers is durability, however, at a certain point the axle end mount will suffer, depends how you drive I guess.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Denbowcj7 (Post 33430690)
deal just came up for a locker. Aussie locker for around 250, good deal? Bad brand?

That's not really a deal or bad deal, that's just about what they cost.
Aussie is a good brand, as is Spartan, and another that's escaping me right now.
Keep researching, you're getting a lot of good info in here, but there's a ton more out there.
A quality track bar was a good point whoever mentioned that.
Don't let your Christmas money burn a hole in your pocket...

Ross 01-04-2016 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Denbowcj7 (Post 33435490)
yea I need some control arms and I planned on get the track bar soon. What brand should I go on the control arms? RC alright?

I have been running the new RC adj arms for almost three years now and they have been great. I have 3" susp, 1 inch body lift and a belly up, ARBs front and rear. They have been down the road, rougher trails and rocks, mud, water etc and I have had no problems at all.

What I have experienced on the trial is getting stuck behind broken dana 35s. If you plan on locking and or regearing your axles I would STRONGLY recommend upgrading the dana 35 before ANYTHING else. .

Your RC springs, a body lift stock control arms, a dana 44, lockers and gears will get you further down the trial than 35s, the best lift in the world and a broken dana 35.

365Jeep 01-04-2016 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knuckelhead (Post 33437074)
I stand by my last post, like it or not... ;)

Hey Knucklehead, no reason not to stand by your post. Everything you said is spot on, and my comment about my contradictory post was about my post being internally contradictory to itself.

My intent was to suggest, for those on a tight budget, a priority and a little clarity about my opinion. A full set of high quality control arms can easily cost as much as many budget lift kits.

Again, and more clearly, high quality control arms offer some type of flexible joints at the ends that help reduce binding and improve articulation. High quality control arms are typically adjustable. If I were to prioritize based solely on adjustability, I would choose the uppers to adjust driveline angles.

For those less budget minded, I would recommend 8 fully adjustable control arms for their fine-tuning ability for precise driveshaft angle adjustment and for precise location of the axles.

365Jeep 01-04-2016 08:08 AM

I will double down on my original recommendation. This is my recommendation. There are many and probably many more qualified and credible than mine.

The most important advice I would give would be to focus on school and avoid debt! I built 4 motocross bikes and started my CJ-7 build while in college. I graduated with a Master's degree in 2000, and I'm still paying off debt! Sure the debt paid for my tuition, but it also paid for axle and suspension parts for a Jeep I no longer own. Be patient and smart.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 365Jeep (Post 33429362)
I would suggest 4.88s on 33s with your 4 banger.

For suspension, I would go for the absolute highest quality I could afford. Lockers are definitely cool and helpful, but I would wait and apply the cost of a locker to the suspension. Don't compromise suspension performance for a locker.

Building on a college budget is hard, but take your time and do it right the first time. If you are impatient, you can make costly compromises. Trust me, you don't want to make the same modification two or three times! I've been there!


Ross 01-04-2016 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 365Jeep (Post 33439402)
I will double down on my original recommendation. This is my recommendation. There are many and probably many more qualified and credible than mine.

The most important advice I would give would be to focus on school and avoid debt! I built 4 motocross bikes and started my CJ-7 build while in college. I graduated with a Master's degree in 2000, and I'm still paying off debt! Sure the debt paid for my tuition, but it also paid for axle and suspension parts for a Jeep I no longer own. Be patient and smart.

OP, this is something to think about. The harder you wheel the more risk you run of busting something on the Jeep. If money is tight and you bust your Jeep what happens if you have no money to fix it? Can your Jeep sit a few moths while you save the money to fix it or do you need your Jeep on a regular basis?


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