Installed new clutch, won't disengage - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-23-2019, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
wallyhaasjeep
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2019
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Installed new clutch, won't disengage

Hi all, hopefully you can help me out.

I've got a 2005 Jeep TJ, 2.4L. I needed to replace the clutch on it, so I pulled everything up to and including the transmission off. I bought a replacement clutch kit that included the pressure plate from the dealer. Took the old pressure plate off and the clutch disc inside looked really bad. Flywheel looked fine though, just a few rough marks which I hand sandpapered to clean. I used spray9 to ensure everything was free of dust, dried it off. When I inspected the clutch fork and throwout bearing, everything moved nice and easy. I installed the new disc and pressure plate, lined it up with an alignment tool, put everything back together. Unfortunately now when I press the clutch pedal, it feels like the clutch does not disengage.

When the engine is off, I can go through all the gears. When the transmission is not in a gear, I can start the Jeep. But when I attempt to put it in to gear, I hear this thunk and it does not go in to gear. I have not and don't want to attempt to force it. But I don't hear a grinding, I hear a thunk. When I raise the Jeep on jackstands and use the clutch override (and pull the ASD relay), I can use the starter to get the Jeep wheels to move. The amount of movement on the wheels seems to be the same whether or not the clutch is depressed.

I thought maybe I had a problem with my clutch master/slave cylinders, but when I pulled that out and compressed it by hand, when a helper pressed down on the clutch pedal the post moved out very smoothly. When I reinstalled the slave cylinder back in there was pressure against the clutch fork, so I think I lined it up right. Since before I put it back together the clutch fork and throwout bearing all seemed to be OK, I don't know what I could have done wrong here.

I've been thinking about taking out the starter just to make sure that the fork is moving when I hit the clutch, but if that works, then OK what can I check after that? Is there something I can do to diagnose this a bit more before pulling the tranny again?

Thanks,

Wally

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post #2 of 7 Old 09-23-2019, 03:12 PM
mukluk
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Pull the slave cylinder and see if the shift fork can be moved/pivoted up and down from its normal centered position; the fork may have popped off its pivot ball at the right side of the bellhousing. The other issue that comes to mind is the clutch disc may be installed backwards.

2000 TJ SE
2005 LJ Rubicon
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post #3 of 7 Old 10-19-2019, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
wallyhaasjeep
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OK I do have an update but unfortunately still can't find the problem. I pulled the slave cylinder off, no play in the clutch fork so that wasn't it. I pulled off the starter and put a snake cam in the hole and pressed on the clutch pedal. It was really hard to see but I could clearly tell the clutch fork was moving. Didn't think that was the problem. Pulled transmission out, inspected pressure plate and clutch plate, everything seems fine! Clutch disc was installed correctly and both the disc and the pressure plate look just like the parts they replaced. I also checked the fluid level in the transmission, it is just below the fill hole, so that also seems OK.

It just feels like the clutch won't disengage. Maybe the slave cylinder isn't moving the peg the full or correct amount? I did notice a tiny amount of fluid leak from it when I pulled the transmission the first time but I topped it off at the master cylinder.

Any thoughts out there?
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-19-2019, 09:09 AM
bobjp
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If the master/slave were working fine before there shouldn't be a problem now.

I know you said you installed the disc correctly, but did you consider that it could be backwards? In some applications installing the disc backwards will do exactly what you describe.

97 TJ sport.
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-19-2019, 12:30 PM
mukluk
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Check the pilot bearing and the end of the transmission input shaft. If either are damaged or the bearing isn't lubed, the input shaft will stick and not allow rotation at a different speed than the flywheel. Likewise, if the splines on the transmission input shaft aren't in good shape and very lightly greased, the clutch disc can bind and drag on the flywheel.

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2005 LJ Rubicon
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post #6 of 7 Old 10-20-2019, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
wallyhaasjeep
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Hey bobjp, yeah I can understand what you're saying but when I checked the clutch plate the side that said "this slide flywheel" (or something like that) was correctly against the flywheel. And I installed it back the same way. Well, I'm putting it back together now anyway. Just got the tranny in yesterday.

mukluk, thanks for the tip. I did take a good look at the pilot bearing, didn't seem like there was any damage there. I didn't put more lube into it but when I ran my finger over the bearings it seemed to be nice and slippery and I could feel the bearings move that were under my finger. I think that could be a good thing for me to check though. Like I said above I've just got the tranny back in yesterday but haven't put the transfer case on or anything. If I reconnect the stick shift and put it in to gear, I think I should be able to spin the transmission shaft manually and the flywheel shouldn't move, as long as I also reinstall the clutch mechanism.

I guess maybe now what I could use is what would be the best way for me to check if I've reassembled the thing properly? How can I test the clutch without installing everything again (transfer case, prop shafts, etc)
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post #7 of 7 Old 10-20-2019, 06:58 AM
bobjp
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I agree, Reinstall the slave cylinder and shifter. Put it in gear with the clutch pressed (use a stick or something), and try to spin the output shaft of the transmission. I would put it in 4th gear so it is 1:1.

You could also just reinstall the starter, start the engine, and see if the output shaft spins when in gear with the clutch pressed. However, keep in mind that shifting in this scenario will always be easier because there is no driveline resistance. You have to look at the shaft.

Maybe you lost a bleed in your hydraulics, but it sounded like you checked that. To bleed push the slave cylinder in by hand many times. It's not a reliable method, but it's worth trying.

You could find another way to press on the clutch fork. A steel plate bolted to the slave studs with a hole in the middle, a nut on the back side, and a bolt through the nut could be used to press on the clutch fork. I did this on a custom setup where stackup/having the right parts was in question. Even with the screw method, the clutch would not release. That's when it turned out that the clutch disc was backwards.

97 TJ sport.
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