Info on the RCD 4" Lift Kit.. PLEASE - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 43 Old 05-09-2010, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
jloo88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmcastino View Post
The Rough Country kit would be a much better choice in my opinion. To me, the only thing I really like about the RCD kit is the Bilsteins.

wht do u think if i went with the rc kit and just upgraded the shocks?? would u say that was a good plan?? and r engine lift kits better than the t-case drop?? how logical would it be to do that instead, or do u have to do both??



I've been perfectly happy with my shocks and springs personally. I actually hooked up a 22' Centurion Elite Wakeboard/Ski boat yesterday to pull it out of the water (only pulled it around the parking lot, no way I was going to try and tow it anywhere ). With all the weight of the stuff in the boat and the trailer weight and what not, I would guess the boat weighed somewhere around 4500 pounds. I don't have the pictures on my computer yet, but I took pics of the weigh the Jeep sat with the boat on it and I still had several inches of clearance over the rear tires (33"x10.5" tires) with my 2.5" RC lift with a 1.25" body lift. I have had this setup for almost a year no and have no complaints.

cool def good to know.. i def am going to get a boat in the future so that reassuring!!



-3" body lifts are no good, small body lifts around 1" are just fine and are actually pretty necessary for certain things like high clearance skid plates
-You COULD run a t-case drop, but those are annoying. They look bad, they make shifting harder, mess with transfer case linkage, and kill ground clearance. Otherwise you will need the SYE, driveshaft, and a set of adjustable rear upper control arms, because without the adjustable uppers, you can't set the pinion angle for the SYE/Driveshaft. For me, the SYE, driveshaft, and uppers were about $525
-A 4" suspension lift and 33"s isn't a stupid thing to want, but personally its not something I would want to do by trying to scrape by with marginal at best kits, because I know after a week I wouldn't be happy with the results and would want to start replacing parts with the better stuff haha. For what its worth, I would suggest for the sake of price to go with something like what I have, you will get the look you want and the whole suspension setup including the MML only ran me $425 at most.
MML?? motor mount lift?? idk i have always more fond of the look and performance of the suspension lift.. if i do need to get the sye and cv ds, cani get away with not having it for a while??


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post #17 of 43 Old 05-09-2010, 10:59 PM
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The MML (motor mount lift) corrects your driveline angle so that you might not have to use a SYE and CV driveline. If used in conjunction with a small bodylift (1.25") it will also put your radiator fan back in line with the shroud. That's the route I would take along with a small suspension lift (2.5"-3"). I believe the RCD springs are progressive as well offering a better ride.
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post #18 of 43 Old 05-09-2010, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by madZJ View Post
The MML (motor mount lift) corrects your driveline angle so that you might not have to use a SYE and CV driveline. If used in conjunction with a small bodylift (1.25") it will also put your radiator fan back in line with the shroud. That's the route I would take along with a small suspension lift (2.5"-3"). I believe the RCD springs are progressive as well offering a better ride.
i was going to do a 3 inch lift with the possibility of a body lift after that.. but then i just figured i would go with the 4 inch sl since i was already going to go 3 inches that 4 wouldnt be that much bigger of a deal.. but is it?? or should i just go with the 3 inch suspension lift with 1.25 inch bl??

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post #19 of 43 Old 05-10-2010, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jloo88 View Post
MML?? motor mount lift?? idk i have always more fond of the look and performance of the suspension lift.. if i do need to get the sye and cv ds, cani get away with not having it for a while??
See below

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmcastino View Post
-You COULD run a t-case drop, but those are annoying. They look bad, they make shifting harder, mess with transfer case linkage, and kill ground clearance. Otherwise you will need the SYE, driveshaft, and a set of adjustable rear upper control arms, because without the adjustable uppers, you can't set the pinion angle for the SYE/Driveshaft. For me, the SYE, driveshaft, and uppers were about $525
And yes, actually that extra inch is a bigger deal than you would think. Every inch means a lot when it comes to suspension and driveline angles and what not. I would stick to 3" at most of suspension lift if you are trying to adhere to a tight budget. And as far as looks go, a 1.25" body lift doesn't stick out like a sore thumb like a 3" does, if you are interested, check out my build thread, there are pics of my TJ on 33"s and a 2.5" lift plus a 1.25" body lift and the body lift doesn't bother me at all personally
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post #20 of 43 Old 05-10-2010, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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And yes, actually that extra inch is a bigger deal than you would think. Every inch means a lot when it comes to suspension and driveline angles and what not. I would stick to 3" at most of suspension lift if you are trying to adhere to a tight budget. And as far as looks go, a 1.25" body lift doesn't stick out like a sore thumb like a 3" does, if you are interested, check out my build thread, there are pics of my TJ on 33"s and a 2.5" lift plus a 1.25" body lift and the body lift doesn't bother me at all personally

ok cool man thx.. yea its just like i think i know that what i have to do but i just want want to admit it and just do it.. but it prob makes sense.. thx for your help bro and i will def check out your thread..

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post #21 of 43 Old 05-10-2010, 10:18 AM
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I had a 2001 Chevy Silverado with a 6" RCD lift and 3" body lift with 36X14.50-16 Parnelli Jones dirt grip tires. Let me tell you, that lift was top notch high quality all the way. That truck drove just as good with the lift and 36's as it did the day I bought it. Had I know RCD was coming out with a 4" TJ lift I would have waited and gotten it instead of the RC lift I have. Dont get me wrong, i am satified with the RC lift considering what I paid for it but if I could have paid extra and gotten an RCD lift for my jeep I would have. You cant go wrong with RCD.
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post #22 of 43 Old 05-10-2010, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by maxum3300 View Post
I had a 2001 Chevy Silverado with a 6" RCD lift and 3" body lift with 36X14.50-16 Parnelli Jones dirt grip tires. Let me tell you, that lift was top notch high quality all the way. That truck drove just as good with the lift and 36's as it did the day I bought it. Had I know RCD was coming out with a 4" TJ lift I would have waited and gotten it instead of the RC lift I have. Dont get me wrong, i am satified with the RC lift considering what I paid for it but if I could have paid extra and gotten an RCD lift for my jeep I would have. You cant go wrong with RCD.
everyone is saying that they make great truck lift but who knows about jeep lifts.. i feel that if they made a great truck lift then y would they not make a great jeep lift??

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post #23 of 43 Old 05-12-2010, 02:44 PM
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If I was to do my budget build all at once it would be this.

RC 3.25 suspention KIT $377 with the forum discount 10%
RC 1.25 BODY LIFT $100
MML $55
Adjustable track bar $130
4 2 inch bump stops $30
about 700 bucks or so.

This is a perfect fit for 33 inch tires on my TJ with lots of up and down travel. My shocks are fine and springs have no sag after some stiff wheeling and running the Maine back frost heaved roads at break neck speed. Whatever lift you get before doing any wheeling check your bump stops to make sure they are set up to make contact before the shocks bottom out. I am now looking to get a short arm kit to replace the factory arms. After that I will have a pretty capable rig. I now have 2 diseases (BRD)black rifle disease and Jeepitis. They both keep me lighter in the wallet and awake at night thinking about all the upgrades I could do. Bumpers, winches, lights etc. I have spent thousands and thousands in my mind. I think this is how junkies may feel.

Good luck,

AL
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post #24 of 43 Old 05-12-2010, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavitation View Post
If I was to do my budget build all at once it would be this.

RC 3.25 suspention KIT $377 with the forum discount 10%
RC 1.25 BODY LIFT $100
MML $55
Adjustable track bar $130
4 2 inch bump stops $30
about 700 bucks or so.

This is a perfect fit for 33 inch tires on my TJ with lots of up and down travel. My shocks are fine and springs have no sag after some stiff wheeling and running the Maine back frost heaved roads at break neck speed. Whatever lift you get before doing any wheeling check your bump stops to make sure they are set up to make contact before the shocks bottom out. I am now looking to get a short arm kit to replace the factory arms. After that I will have a pretty capable rig. I now have 2 diseases (BRD)black rifle disease and Jeepitis. They both keep me lighter in the wallet and awake at night thinking about all the upgrades I could do. Bumpers, winches, lights etc. I have spent thousands and thousands in my mind. I think this is how junkies may feel.

Good luck,

AL
thx for the post man.. much help.. the only thing is if im going to get the mml already, shouldnt i just go with the 4 inch kit??

if not, i think i am just going to go with this setup.. (3 inch sl witht the bl) seems to be the one that makes the most sense for my situation..

~JL NICE~

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post #25 of 43 Old 05-12-2010, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jloo88 View Post
thx for the post man.. much help.. the only thing is if im going to get the mml already, shouldnt i just go with the 4 inch kit??

if not, i think i am just going to go with this setup.. (3 inch sl witht the bl) seems to be the one that makes the most sense for my situation..
A MML is usually not enough to correct the vibes you get from a 4" lift.

Usually you need an SYE, adjustable upper comtrol arms, and a double cardon driveshaft in the rear for that much suspension height. Or you end up dropping the t-case back down.

If you want to do the lift for under or around $1,000, I would go with a 3" suspension lift.

Then add a body lift if you still want more height.
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post #26 of 43 Old 05-12-2010, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
A MML is usually not enough to correct the vibes you get from a 4" lift.

Usually you need an SYE, adjustable upper comtrol arms, and a double cardon driveshaft in the rear for that much suspension height. Or you end up dropping the t-case back down.

If you want to do the lift for under or around $1,000, I would go with a 3" suspension lift.

Then add a body lift if you still want more height.
yea u see i was thinking that originally i would have to get the sye and cv shaft, but then mad people were saying that they didnt need the sye and cv and everything was working just fine without it with the 4 inch kit.. idk i think im just going to go with the 3 inch kit (prob bds) then get the bl.. seems to be the best setup for my situaltion.. thanks for the post tho!!

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post #27 of 43 Old 05-12-2010, 03:03 PM
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If you are looking at the 3" BDS, also consider the 3" Zone Off-Road kit.

Zone has the same owners as BDS and many of their products are very similar if not identical. Zone is basically rebranded BDS stuff.

Zone has a 4.25" combo kit that includes a 3" suspension lift, 1.25" body lift, and a 1" MML for $600.
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post #28 of 43 Old 05-12-2010, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
If you are looking at the 3" BDS, also consider the 3" Zone Off-Road kit.

Zone has the same owners as BDS and many of their products are very similar if not identical. Zone is basically rebranded BDS stuff.

Zone has a 4.25" combo kit that includes a 3" suspension lift, 1.25" body lift, and a 1" MML for $600.
ooooooooooo really?? that sounds great!! ill def check it out.. is zone good quality tho?? im def not trying to get a crappy kit, i know its after product of bds, but look at it this way, i would rather spend a few more buck to get a 30 rack of coors light then save a couple bucks to have keystone light.. keystone is just the bottom of the barrel coors light lol

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post #29 of 43 Old 05-12-2010, 04:25 PM
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Zone is at least Coors level.

Its above Busch light, Keystone light, and Natty light.

Not quite a Guiness or Bass, but still very refreshing.
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post #30 of 43 Old 05-14-2010, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
Zone is at least Coors level.

Its above Busch light, Keystone light, and Natty light.

Not quite a Guiness or Bass, but still very refreshing.
thats what im talking about!!! this is the best forum post exchange on here right now haha!!

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