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Turn signal/Indicator/blinker not cancelling - switch repair write up.

30K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  SeaLawyer 
#1 · (Edited)
Mods. Not sure if this is best posted here or in tech articles/write ups. Move if you feel it's neccessary.

OK. First off apologies to all those who were posting in the earlier thread about this problem, where I stated I would do this write up. It's taken more than the two days I'd stated but here it now is - for any and all that are interested.

Parts for our vehicles can be expensive - even more so in the UK. When my indicator stalk stopped cancelling in one direction I just put up with it, for quite a long time too. It eventually wouldn't shift at all to indicate right, not good for wanting to turn across traffic. Well it would, but only just enough to get the flashers going and it had to be held there to keep them flashing. It felt like the force needed would break the stalk off. Time to get it fixed!

I figured it would just be a broken spring, and as I have access to a small selection in the parts trays at work I decided to strip the multi-function switch in the hope of having a spring that fitted. After all, if it can be fixed for free it's MUCH cheaper than buying a replacement switch unit. Prices I've seen posted are $50 off jeepsareus.com or $70 from the dealerships. Add cost to ship to the UK and import fees and tax...

On with the write up.

Tools I needed...
No. 2 crosshead screwdriver.
T20 and T15 torx drivers.
And a pick

Get the direction indicator multifunction switch from the steering column. No pics for this part. Remove the two screws that hold in the dash panel underneath the the steering wheel, then lower it down and unplug the headlamp leveller wiring plug. (It's on my RHD export so if it's not on US models ignore that part.) The panel will come off at the bottom the same way as the glove box does. There are three screws that hold the steering column shroud in place. Two at the front and one towards the rear.

The shroud halves can be removed with the dash surround in place, which is the way I did it, but the top half can be a bit of a struggle. It might be easier to do it with the dash surround removed. If you wanted to do that there are two visible screws at the bottom and two more under the windshield vent cover which pops off fairly easily without tools. The lower half requires the ignition barrel to be removed. To do that put your key in and turn it to the ON position. There is a hole in the lower half just underneath the barrel, you may need to probe around a bit with your screwdriver but there is a button on the underside of the barrel which will push in allowing the switch unit to be pulled out. The lower shroud can then be removed.

There is a metal frame with rubber seals over the hazard button and flasher stalk. Remove the two screws at the top and the T20 torx screw at the bottom. The frame can then be removed. The left multi-function switch can then be lifted slightly and moved away from the steering column to the left unplug the wiring connectors.

You will now have the multi-function switch ready for stripping apart. There are four T15 torx screws holding the unit together...



Hold the switch together while you remove the torx screws...



Hold the switch with one half of the case in each hand and gently separate the two halves. You will now have lots of bits...



This is the size of the tension spring I have used in the repair. The function of this spring is to hold the cancelling tab against the steering column so it catches as the column rotates causing the direction indicator to cancel...




The eyes on the spring needed widening slightly to fit on the location pegs, which I did by pushing it onto the end of a pick...



The spring looks too long when mounted to one of the pegs. It is longer than the peg separation but mounts in a curved position so this is OK...

 
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#2 · (Edited)
Mount the spring on one of the pegs as seen in the pictures then slide the stalk in place on the spring...



...before turning the stalk ready to mount the other end of the spring. The other (compression) spring, seen in the center of the picture helps center the switch when it does cancel...



Locate the gaps at the end of that spring over the pegs highlighted...



As I was fitting the second end of the spring over the peg when the other spring popped out of place...



...so I had to remove the spring from the peg to refit the other spring in it's slot. It fits in the slot and is held in it's centered position as the ends of the slot are narrower which leaves the gaps empty. Here's the sizes of that spring...




That portion of the switch unit can safely be laid aside while the other half containing the electrical contacts is prepared for the two halves to be fitted together. First sit the hazard switch slider in place. Then sit the other white piece in place making sure the small tab sits in the channel on the hazard switch section...

 
#3 · (Edited)
The next contact is for the high beam flasher circuit. Fit the tab numbered 1 in the top edge of it's slot, holding this part so the second tab (2) is towards you so the sprung contact can be fitted into position. Push the plastic towards the contact so the second tab can be lined up and slotted into it's guide. Only fit the second tab so it sits about 1/8" (approx. three millimeters) into it's slot. This will help in the tricky bit - fitting the two halves together...



To do this part requires a bit of dexterity. Do this with the half with the stalk at the top, and the electrical contacts at the bottom. Align the two halves, and when they are just together you need to look at the switch unit from this sort of angle. This is so you can see the tab and slot highlighted. The slot needs fitting into the tab and as they overlap so the contact can be pushed and pulled for the headlamp high beam to operate it will not just slide down onto it. This requires both hands so there is no photo of the actual method used which I will describe as well as possible.



I'm right handed so I used my left hand to support both halves of the unit in the position shown above. With my right hand I placed fingers on top of the top half with my thumb wrapped around the stalk. The stalk can then be lifted up which lowers the tab shown allowing it to be carefully guided into the slot. This took me a few attempts to get right as the high beam contact can be pulled out of it's guide if not careful, resulting in going back a bit. When done right the halves can then be held together gently but will not fully close because of the little locator wheel on the other side. Use your screwdriver or torx driver to push this into the case. Again holding the case together with gentle pressure.



The operation of the switch can then be checked before the screws are fitted. I hadn't got the indicator contact peg located in it's slider so I had to separate the two halves again and repeat the last few steps.



Here's where I located the contacts before trying again. The hazard switch is over as far as it will go to the left and the other set of contacts for the indicator circuit where I guessed they should line up.



This time the indicator stalk could be switched to the left and right positions easily so the peg was lined up correctly. You should be able to see the peg and slot for the indicator if viewed through this gap above the hazard switch and check it's lined up. If misaligned you may be able to get a pick in the slot to move the contact into line with the peg.



If the indicator stalk operates correctly you can refit the four torx screws.

Et Voilà! (as they say in France) The Multifunction switch is repaired and ready to refit to your Jeep. Fitting back onto the steering column is the reversal of removal.

 
#12 ·
A simple wiring fault (short between wires) would likely cause all lamps to light when indicating left or right. And the three wires for the left, center and right bulbs would all have to be shorted to each other.

You must have a problem within the turn signal switch. Try cycling the hazard switch on and off several times and see if that helps clear the problem. The contacts there do cause problems sometimes, and are the most likely cause. If that works, or even if it doesn't, I'd be thinking of stripping the switch to see what all the contacts are like, and cleaning and regreasing (with dielectric grease) before reassembly.
 
#14 ·
Awesome thread. My jeep dash see's far more rain then it is supposed to and recently after a very heavy and gusty down pour my turn signal would just click. Lights weren't coming on and it didn't effect the turn signals when i wanted to use them. So I took it apart thinking I'd clean the contacts with white vinegar. Well when I took it apart and it literally fell apart I thought I was doomed and would have to buy a new one. Thank you for your write up I was able to clean all the green off the copper put it back together and eliminate my problem. However the first time i got it back together I had a spare piece and I had no idea where it came from. It was a little copper cap on a spring. I looked at the switch for a long time before I decided it must go in the hole right behind the hazard switch. Speaking of hazard switch only my left hazard ever turned on when I'd flip it on. To get the right on I'd have to put my right turn signal on. This cleaning fixed that as well. And that had not worked since I bought the Jeep. Now I just have to figure out why the Airbag light is staying on (another product of the rain storm)
 
#15 ·
#17 ·
Hello,

Thank you for taking the time to post this fix. I attempted this repair but could not get my turn signal to work properly (self-cancelling). When I took the assembly apart, it appeared that the longer spring that attaches through the lever was bent out of shape. I was able to bend it back into shape and re-assemble the switch. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get the self-canceling feature to work.

I also ordered a used MOPAR multifunction switch from eBay. It was just my luck that the switch I received didn't self-cancel either. I have a couple of questions that I was hoping someone could answer:

1. With the switch removed, should I be able to see if the self-cancel works just by pushing down on the white plastic piece that sticks out from the assembly?
2. With the switch removed, should I be able to look into the steering column and see the clock spring tabs that will re-set the turn signal?

And last question.....

3. If I don't want to give up and were to order a replacement spring, where would recommend I order that size spring from?

Thanks,

Brian in San Francisco
 
#18 ·
Hi Brian,

I think I stated in my write up I found springs the correct size in parts trays at work. I've had a little google and Mcmaster-Carr have springs the correct size but they are $9.85 for 12. The springs are listed as 1.5" long, this is measured including the end loops which I hadn't included in my measurements. I'm not sure if you'd find any cheaper on ebay or anywhere else with the same dimensions. https://www.mcmaster.com/9654K14/

With the switch removed I'm certain you should be able to cancel the switch. If I am thinking right, and you were to push the switch to the right turn position then pushing the white cancellation tab down should cancel the switch and center it. Setting the switch in the left position pushing up on the tab should cancel/center the switch.

I'm also certain you'd be able to see whatever shifts the cancellation tab when the switch is removed. I'm not certain if it's on the clockspring or not as it's so long since I did this, but you should be able to see whatever it is as the steering wheel is turned. I have a used clockspring to look at but it's in my toolbox at work so I wouldn't be able to dig it out for a look till Monday.
 
#19 ·
Jonny Jeep,

I was finally able to fix it. After disassembling and re-assembling it 6 or 7 times, I noticed that the arrow-shaped spring-loaded metal insert for the turn signal shaft (white portion at the base) appeared damaged. I then cracked open the second turn signal indicator that I had and determined that the aforementioned piece had a missing piece that appeared to have broken off. Since I had already determined that the second multifunction switch I had was not working properly, I took the plunge and swapped out the damaged part. I re-assembled my original switch and it actually cancelled properly.....I was shocked I was able to get it to work.

In either case, I have a multifunction switch in parts that I'm wiling to mail to anyone who wants the parts.

Thanks again for the write up. I had to read through it multiple times but without it, I would have been completely lost.

Take care,

Brian in San Francisco
 

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