If you buy a TJ, buy a welder. What rusted off your Jeep today? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 04-25-2019, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
Doughboy00008
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If you buy a TJ, buy a welder. What rusted off your Jeep today?

Just *****ing. Endless frustration with this Jeep. I’ve replaced center and rear frame sections. All four spring perch’s and upper rear spring mounts. Replaced trans pan, brake lines, emissions line, windshield hinges, front fender, floor pan sections etc.... I’ve had and still have O2 sensor codes(replaced them all). Cutting and grinding is endless. Thank god for harbor freight grinders. Has Jeep ever acknowledged the **** metal they used to build these jeeps(97-03)?

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post #2 of 21 Old 04-25-2019, 07:58 PM
Jerry Bransford
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Sorry for the problems but your rust isn't caused by cheap steel. Even the very best quality steels rust, especially when in an area where the roads are salted during the winter. The Navy's ships are made from the best grades of steel but they still rust badly enough to keep the sailors busy chipping and painting. Rust isn't a problem for Jeeps in states where the roads aren't salted like yours are. Good luck with it.
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When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #3 of 21 Old 04-25-2019, 09:14 PM
Strelnikov
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My '99 TJ Sahara has lasted 20 years in the rust belt. About 5 years ago I had to replace all the brake lines. Parts of the frame and fenders are now rusted so badly that I am going to have to start up the welder this summer and get to work. The good news is that I don't see anything that I can't do myself. The frame and body design is simple enough that I am confident that I can keep it going for a long time.

Compare that to a friend who had a '98 Honda Accord. It had over 300,000 miles and still ran fine but the body rusted so much that it wasn't safe to drive anymore and he had to junk it. At least TJs are fixable.

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post #4 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 10:18 AM
Dr. Internet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Sorry for the problems but your rust isn't from cheap steels. Even the very best quality steels rust, especially when in an area where the roads are salted during the winter. The Navy's ships are made from the best grades of steel and they rust badly enough to keep the sailors busy chipping and painting. Rust isn't a problem for Jeeps in states where the roads aren't salted like yours are. Good luck with it.

I spent five years at sea. There was always something to chip and/or paint.
(If it moves, salute it; if not, paint it!)
My CJ-7 lived on Long Island NY and everything rusted. I think there was even rust on the tires. Someone bought if from me, sight unseen, cause they wanted a Jeep that would run on unleaded gas.

TJ lives in San Antonio - no rust, ever. When the roads ice down here, they put crushed sea shells on the road - no salt, no chemicals.


You have to keep the salt and other crud off the steel and keep it painted.
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post #5 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 04:04 PM
TheBoogieman
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That's why I moved from CT to Va.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
GOT IT BACK 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
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post #6 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 04:43 PM
JEK3
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Last week, discovered that the threads on my Currie control arm rusted just enough that they popped out:






Tried to pull the CA off, discovered the bolt was rusted to the ball:






Threaded it back together, tack welded the adjuster nut to the tube (had to do this in place, under the Jeep, upside down, hence the craptacular weld job):






It's held so far, have a new pair ready to install this weekend (weather permitting).
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post #7 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 07:13 PM
mukluk
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@JEK3
You may want to consider longer arms if the adjustment length shown is required for your setup. A good rule of thumb is the rod end should thread into the tube at minimum as far as the diameter of the threaded portion of the rod end: less than that can result in insufficient thread engagement and strength, along with potentially stripping the threads out.

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post #8 of 21 Old 04-26-2019, 09:39 PM
JEK3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mukluk View Post
@JEK3
You may want to consider longer arms if the adjustment length shown is required for your setup. A good rule of thumb is the rod end should thread into the tube at minimum as far as the diameter of the threaded portion of the rod end: less than that can result in insufficient thread engagement and strength, along with potentially stripping the threads out.

Good point. I thought I had enough engagement when I set them up, but that was years ago and I don't remember exactly what I did. As I already have new arms in hand, I'll just shorten my lowers if necessary to ensure proper engagement.
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post #9 of 21 Old 04-27-2019, 04:51 AM
Richisinyoface
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Sorry for the problems but your rust isn't caused by cheap steel. Even the very best quality steels rust, especially when in an area where the roads are salted during the winter. The Navy's ships are made from the best grades of steel but they still rust badly enough to keep the sailors busy chipping and painting. Rust isn't a problem for Jeeps in states where the roads aren't salted like yours are. Good luck with it.

I put my Jeep up every year since I have been back up to the NE, I cringe every time I see one on the road in the winter. People can't complain about the rust when they are truly the ones causing it, you knew how they treat the roads in the rustbelt......I totally agree with Jerry, its not the Jeep

Just Empty Every Pocket.......yup they are empty all right.................

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post #10 of 21 Old 04-28-2019, 07:36 AM
bobjp
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I would never buy a vehicle I'm going to care about from the rust belt. Especially an older one. And I will never drive a vehicle I care about in the winter.

Do TJs really rust out worse than other vehicles? I think there is evidence both ways. The frame and torque boxes were issues before TJs went out of production. Having those issues on a vehicle that is less than 10 years old is absurd. I don't care what the environment is. And these are the same uncorrected problems (amongst many others) that YJs and CJs have. Having repaired rust on CJs, YJs, and TJs I do believe materials, processes, and designs with regards to corrosion are inferior in comparison to many other vehicles.

On the other hand the youngest TJ is nearly 14 years old, but they are still everywhere. Because they are worth a lot of money and are fun we keep them on the road longer than other vehicles. If the engine dies in a reasonably clean 2005 TJ with 200,000 miles on it, it is definitely worth repairing. Most decide it's not worth repairing a 2005 Malibu of the same condition. To some extent this is just what happens when you try to keep an old vehicle on the road in the rust belt.

In my opinion vehicles are not designed to last as long as they should. There are better materials, treatments, and coatings, and manufacturers shape metal in a way that welcomes rust with open arms. But overall society doesn't care. Consumers want new things for the sake of it, and manufacturers want it that way.

97 TJ sport.
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post #11 of 21 Old 04-28-2019, 08:17 AM
Cutlass327
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That is why I love the CJs. Fiberglass body, stainless steel hinges, mirrors, etc. Frame is a Throttle Down Customs frame and I paid for the optional galvanize dip. If it isn't 'glass or stainless, it is coated in antiseize or painted with POR15 and top coated. I live about an hour south of Cleveland, Ohio. I build this thing to last thru the winters as a DD.



I would highly suggest spending the money for having any vehicle professionally undercoated and rustproofed when new. I have a 2010 Focus from Tennessee now, 70K on it, and it will be getting treated before next winter. It still looks like it came off the showroom floor, it is going to be a sin to drive it in the winter if I cannot take the CJ.



Unfortunately, like Strelnikov said, my 93 Accord runs like a smooth machine, 400K on it, but strut towers are rotted, hardly any floor boards on the driver side, rear wheel wells are rotted out, I can put my hand thru the roof right above the passenger side windshield, and only 3 brakes work as I pinched off the right rear where it blew out. Gorilla tape and heavy rubber mudflaps got me thru the winter, it will be going to the salvage yard next month when I have a chance to clear it our and drive it over there.
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post #12 of 21 Old 04-28-2019, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
That is why I love the CJs. Fiberglass body,
Until you take it offroad and hit a tree or rock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
GOT IT BACK 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
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post #13 of 21 Old 04-28-2019, 09:34 AM
Cutlass327
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Nah, the fiberglass bounces back. If it does crack, a few hours with a little sanding, some resin and matting, more sanding, and paint. quick and easy.

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #14 of 21 Old 04-28-2019, 09:38 AM
Shark_13
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Buy a used Civic for winter driving.
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post #15 of 21 Old 04-28-2019, 10:15 PM
Strelnikov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark_13 View Post
Buy a used Civic for winter driving.
That wouldn't work for me. A Civic wouldn't be able to get through the unplowed street I live on, or if the street is plowed it definitely wouldn't be able to get through the snow and ice berm at the end of my driveway that the city snowplow leaves.

'80 CJ-7 Iron Duke (project)
'99 TJ 4.0 Sahara (son's Jeep)
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