How do I recenter the proportioning valve - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 11 Old 11-06-2020, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
motovate
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How do I recenter the proportioning valve

Anyone know how to recenter the Proportioning Valve on a 2003 Rubicon???

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post #2 of 11 Old 11-07-2020, 08:05 AM
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I thought they would recenter when pressure equalized, just pressing brake pedal hard, SO its off to the manual. interesting...

It is stuck closing off front or rear OR just red brake light is on?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-07-2020, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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It's the Red light not staying off and pedal not staying hard. I've bled it with a motive pressure bleeder until nothing but clear fluid passes through on all 4 corners multiple times, bled it by hand pump and hold multiple times. It's better but still not right. I've pumped hard and held, hit the pedal hard and held, ran it up to 40- 50 mph panic stop hard and held multiple times, tapped on Prop valve with a small hammer. Locked up the front discs and I think the rear also locked up. I even cracked the prop valve connections at the block to be sure there is not air at that point. So I am not sure it is the Proportioning valve. Just wanting to be sure it is not the valve at this time. New copper washers & tightened the brake hose to calipers, new calipers correct sides and correct front and rear, bleeders are high not on the bottom and fluid runs out freely. At this point I think I'll just go back and check all connections and try bleeding again. I'm out of Ideas. I did find there is a PV Tool & I ordered it. Take out the light sending unit and screw the tool into the block and if it fits the jeep is is supposed to keep the valve centered so you can bleed each side with out moving the valve out of position.


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I thought they would recenter when pressure equalized, just pressing brake pedal hard, SO its off to the manual. interesting...

It is stuck closing off front or rear OR just red brake light is on?
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-08-2020, 10:32 PM
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Do you have ABS? Where does the signal for the red brake light originate? Is it the rear of the prop valve?

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post #5 of 11 Old 11-09-2020, 03:08 AM
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If the valve has shifted, and there are no leaks or air in the system, stomping down hard on the pedal should reset the valve.


The ground for the red brake warning lamp can be from two sources. The proportioning valve or the handbrake switch. If the connector is pulled off the valve and the light is still on, the handbrake switch contacts may be sticking on.
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-09-2020, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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I don't think so. The ABS light does not come on and never has when the key is turned to on and I don't see anything @ or around the PV. The sending unit is on the left side in the middle of the PV????



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Do you have ABS? Where does the signal for the red brake light originate? Is it the rear of the prop valve?
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-09-2020, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
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I have stomped on the brakes hard multiple times. It is at the point that when the light comes on 1 push on the brake gets a harder pedal and the light goes off but comes back on. Brake does not stay hard but softens up until I pump it again. I'll check the light plug but it is not just the light I have a hard pedal then a soft pedal pump the brakes pedal comes back light goes out.



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Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
If the valve has shifted, and there are no leaks or air in the system, stomping down hard on the pedal should reset the valve.


The ground for the red brake warning lamp can be from two sources. The proportioning valve or the handbrake switch. If the connector is pulled off the valve and the light is still on, the handbrake switch contacts may be sticking on.
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-09-2020, 06:45 AM
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If there are no visible leaks anywhere in the brake system, I'm wondering if you might have a leak going into the booster. I'm not sure how that would affect the pedal response or valve operation though, or even how you'd check for fluid in the booster.
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-09-2020, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motovate View Post
I don't think so. The ABS light does not come on and never has when the key is turned to on and I don't see anything @ or around the PV. The sending unit is on the left side in the middle of the PV????
The reason I ask is ABS models use a different PV. As Jonny Jeep mentioned, could be a booster or vacuum related. Try a new booster check valve. Cheap enough to give it a whirl.

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post #10 of 11 Old 11-09-2020, 09:22 AM
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A thought - the switch screws into the combination/proportioning valve.
Unscrew the switch - the RED brake should go OUT* - let us know.


* the movement of the shuttle valve to either front or rear depresses the detent plunger on switch and the light comes on. Removed the detent should extend. did light go out?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #11 of 11 Old 11-09-2020, 01:54 PM
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The brake pedal feel going soft until you pump the brakes indicates you either have air in the system still or there's a leak. Absent evidence of an external fluid leak and/or loss of fluid level in the reservoir, I would suspect the master cylinder piston seal on one of its two circuits has failed and is bypassing, thus causing the shuttle valve to shift and cause the warning lamp to illuminate. An alternate theory would be your rear drum brake shoes are so far out of adjustment that it takes pumping the brake pedal to get them to move close enough to the drum to engage and get a good pedal -- the return springs then retract the shoes sufficiently to reset the faulty condition.
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