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post #1 of 9 Old 04-13-2019, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
Lannister2112
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Horn problems

Hi all, I have horn problems.

The horn in the jeep isnít working. Hereís what I know so far: 1. If apply 12v power to the horn, it beeps. 2. The fuse and relays are both good. 3. If I jump positive power from the battery, it beeps (no break in the ground wire).

So that just leaves the switch in the steering wheel, yes? Or possibly a break in the wire from the switch to the relay? I hate to open the steering wheel and get past the air bag if i donít have to.. but I think thatís where Iím at.

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post #2 of 9 Old 04-13-2019, 06:26 PM
brunosplace
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Could also be the clockspring. Your profile is empty, what year is your Jeep?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
............
Big tires, done right, are FREAKING EXPENSIVE. Deal with it, or don't go there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnjeep View Post
I live in the land where they salt cure roadkill.
97 Jeep TJ Sport, 4.0L, Auto, 3" BDS Lift (SOLD)
98 Jeep ZJ Laredo 4.0L, Auto, Stock
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, parted out and scrapped
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-13-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
Lannister2112
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Hello!

I just opened my account so the profile is still empty... but it’s a 2006, my first jeep.

I was just watching a video on replacing the clock spring, didn’t seem too bad.

Any. Tips on how to tell if its the clock spring or the switch?
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-13-2019, 07:42 PM
dbbd1
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Interesting because in your jeep the horn switch in the steering applies ground to the horn relay.

The opinions of worthless people, are worthless.

The only problem that you have with anyone in this world, is what you expect of them.

Society is no match for a stupid person.

"Life Is tough but it is tougher when you are stupid"

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post #5 of 9 Old 04-13-2019, 09:18 PM
brunosplace
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With the key off. Find Connector C301 which is located in the Left Kick Panel, yellow in color, look for the Red/Yellow 20 gauge wire, back probe the connector with an ohmmeter, one side to ground, press horn switch. If it shows continuity, both horn switch and clock spring are good.

If not, proceed to the below instructions.


DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HORN SWITCH
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appropriate
wiring information.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
REFER TO ELECTRICAL, RESTRAINTS
BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL,
STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL
COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE
TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD
RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT
AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Remove the steering column opening cover
from the instrument panel.
(2) Check for continuity between the metal steering
column jacket and a good ground. There should
be continuity. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, refer to
Steering, Column for proper installation of the steering
column.
(3) Remove the driver side airbag module from the
steering wheel. Disconnect the horn switch wire harness
connectors from the driver side airbag module.
(4) Remove the horn relay from the Power Distribution
Center (PDC). Check for continuity between
the steering column half of the horn switch feed wire
harness connector and a good ground. There should
be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK,
repair the shorted horn relay control circuit to the
horn relay in the PDC as required.
(5) Check for continuity between the steering column
half of the horn switch feed wire harness connector
and the horn relay control circuit cavity for
the horn relay in the PDC. There should be continuity.
If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the open
horn relay control circuit to the horn relay in the
PDC as required.
(6) Check for continuity between the horn switch
feed wire and the horn switch ground wire on the
driver side airbag module. There should be no continuity.
If OK, go to Step 7. If not OK, replace the
faulty horn switch.
(7) Depress the center of the driver side airbag
module trim cover and check for continuity between
the horn switch feed wire and the horn switch
ground wire on the driver side airbag module. There
should now be continuity. If not OK, replace the
faulty horn switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
............
Big tires, done right, are FREAKING EXPENSIVE. Deal with it, or don't go there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnjeep View Post
I live in the land where they salt cure roadkill.
97 Jeep TJ Sport, 4.0L, Auto, 3" BDS Lift (SOLD)
98 Jeep ZJ Laredo 4.0L, Auto, Stock
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, parted out and scrapped
96 Jeep XJ Sport, parted out and scrapped


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



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post #6 of 9 Old 04-14-2019, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
Lannister2112
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Thanks for the tip. Seems like youíve been through this before.

Getting the red/yellow wire and the frame, I did get continuity when I hit the horn.. so I guess thatís not it.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-14-2019, 09:01 PM
brunosplace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lannister2112 View Post
Thanks for the tip. Seems like you’ve been through this before.

Getting the red/yellow wire and the frame, I did get continuity when I hit the horn.. so I guess that’s not it.
Nope, just understand wiring and have access to the FSM. :-)

Since the horn switch and clockspring are good, how did you test the relay? Did you replace or test the fuse?

horn circuit schematic:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
............
Big tires, done right, are FREAKING EXPENSIVE. Deal with it, or don't go there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnjeep View Post
I live in the land where they salt cure roadkill.
97 Jeep TJ Sport, 4.0L, Auto, 3" BDS Lift (SOLD)
98 Jeep ZJ Laredo 4.0L, Auto, Stock
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, parted out and scrapped
96 Jeep XJ Sport, parted out and scrapped


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-15-2019, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
Lannister2112
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Garage
I put a 12v power supply to the relay and I could hear / feel it click over. I also swapped it out with one of the other relays (fuel pump?), with the same result - fuel pump worked, and horn didn't. I'll check the fuse and relay again for good measure, but they both seemed good.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-15-2019, 04:33 PM
brunosplace
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Once it clicked, did you check to see if there was continuity through the relay on the other two terminals? Did you check to see if there was 12v on the source lead at the relay socket in the pdc? Check to see if you get ground continuity at the relay socket with someone pressing the horn button for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
............
Big tires, done right, are FREAKING EXPENSIVE. Deal with it, or don't go there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnjeep View Post
I live in the land where they salt cure roadkill.
97 Jeep TJ Sport, 4.0L, Auto, 3" BDS Lift (SOLD)
98 Jeep ZJ Laredo 4.0L, Auto, Stock
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, parted out and scrapped
96 Jeep XJ Sport, parted out and scrapped


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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