Help! Jeep Brake Hose Replacement - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-14-2017, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
kozi88
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Help! Jeep Brake Hose Replacement

Hey all. My '05 Rubicon has been having some pretty bad brake issues this summer. All research I've done points to contamination of the system, and as such I'm having everything made of rubber replaced.

The shop I've taken it to has been pretty fair in terms of pricing, but tried to quote me 3-4 hours of labor to replace five brake hoses. I smell BS. Online I've seen guys change a hose in under 15 minutes start to finish. My question regarding the hoses goes out to those who have replaced their own: how long did it take you to swap your hoses, how difficult was it, and what did it cost you?

Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 8 Old 08-14-2017, 02:30 PM
biffgnar
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What actually are they replacing? I'm trying to think of where there is actual rubber. I can think of five places for you. Hard to believe they all need replacement, but I suppose as a preventative measure. How do you figure the rubber lines are creating contamination? Internal lining of the hoses is breaking down? I would expect the replacements to be pretty straightforward but you never know with bolts being seized up, etc. I'd guess 2 hours would be fair for things going smoothly but with a 12 year old vehicle you can never count on that. Quoting 3 as a cushion seems reasonable to me. 4 might be on the high side.
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-14-2017, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
kozi88
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Thanks for the response. They're replacing the rubber brake hoses (4 total) that lead to each wheel/caliper, and then I believe the tech said an additional hose going back past the front axle. I've had rotors/pads/calipers recently replaced, along with the master, so the rubber lines should be the last step in this process. I'm guessing contamination because of the past failures; calipers seizing, master failing, and now low brake pressure for the third time. My dad took my Wrangler and his 2500 to a somewhat shady service station while I was away at school this year in order to save money on fixes, but more and more issues kept surfacing the longer he went there. How hard would it have been for them to toss a little oil in the master cylinder reservoir while the Jeep was in the shop? The hoses themselves have swollen and are restricting flow of fluid to the back brakes, forcing the fronts to work harder. By replacing them I aim to eliminate any residual contaminants that may be lurking in the rubber and restore even pressure to all calipers.

You do have a good point on the age of my vehicle. While I keep it in good shape, Michigan winters have a way of causing things to lock up (especially after 12 of them). I've accepted that this fix is going to be expensive, 3 hours is sounding more reasonable now for everything they'll need to do. Thanks for your help!
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post #4 of 8 Old 08-14-2017, 03:19 PM
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kozi88 View Post
Thanks for the response. They're replacing the rubber brake hoses (4 total) that lead to each wheel/caliper, and then I believe the tech said an additional hose going back past the front axle. I've had rotors/pads/calipers recently replaced, along with the master, so the rubber lines should be the last step in this process. I'm guessing contamination because of the past failures; calipers seizing, master failing, and now low brake pressure for the third time. My dad took my Wrangler and his 2500 to a somewhat shady service station while I was away at school this year in order to save money on fixes, but more and more issues kept surfacing the longer he went there. How hard would it have been for them to toss a little oil in the master cylinder reservoir while the Jeep was in the shop? The hoses themselves have swollen and are restricting flow of fluid to the back brakes, forcing the fronts to work harder. By replacing them I aim to eliminate any residual contaminants that may be lurking in the rubber and restore even pressure to all calipers.

You do have a good point on the age of my vehicle. While I keep it in good shape, Michigan winters have a way of causing things to lock up (especially after 12 of them). I've accepted that this fix is going to be expensive, 3 hours is sounding more reasonable now for everything they'll need to do. Thanks for your help!
The issue is do you quote high and do it for less, or quote low and get the customer to step up and cover the difference? I've seen rusty tube nuts round off and cause all manner of issues. I've seen bleeder screws round off and make it impossible to bleed and they do have to bleed after the hose swap. You got 15 connections they have to mess with that all have to be perfect to hold pressure. Any one of them can add 1/2 hour to the time if they get a bit cranky. I can swap brake lines in my sleep practically and I don't know how I would quote replacing all of them in the rust belt and making sure neither of us got screwed.

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post #5 of 8 Old 08-14-2017, 04:54 PM
JEK3
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Brake jobs can go south pretty quick. My last attempt at bleeding brakes turned into the purchase of two new bleeder screws for the fronts (FYI - Speed Bleeder screws will rust together and not pass any fluid), and a new rear caliper (let's just say the core was turned in with just the threaded half of a bleeder screw remaining, with the broken tip of a screw extractor stuck in it). I was planning to swap in longer front brake lines when I did my lift, but the first fitting started to round off, so I gave up.
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post #6 of 8 Old 08-14-2017, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
kozi88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
The issue is do you quote high and do it for less, or quote low and get the customer to step up and cover the difference? I've seen rusty tube nuts round off and cause all manner of issues. I've seen bleeder screws round off and make it impossible to bleed and they do have to bleed after the hose swap. You got 15 connections they have to mess with that all have to be perfect to hold pressure. Any one of them can add 1/2 hour to the time if they get a bit cranky. I can swap brake lines in my sleep practically and I don't know how I would quote replacing all of them in the rust belt and making sure neither of us got screwed.
You're right on all of your points. Settled on 3 hours of labor and called it a day. I badgered the shop into throwing in a free power flush and dropping the inspection fee, plus a 10% discount since they missed the root of the issue the first time I had it in. Hopefully none of the rusty screws or nuts cause any issues like you stated!
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post #7 of 8 Old 08-14-2017, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kozi88 View Post
Hey all. My '05 Rubicon has been having some pretty bad brake issues this summer. All research I've done points to contamination of the system, and as such I'm having everything made of rubber replaced.
What type of contamination?
When you remove the cap to the master cylinder is the rubber gasket inside swollen?
If not then a simple flush may do
If yes then Id agree on all rubber components being replaced
Without actually seeing it first hand its tough to make that call

Most shops have a set labor rate on part replacement which may or may not based on a specific vehicle

You can price out another shop or do it yourself, but comparing what a guy online can/will do to what a shop can/will are two different things
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-16-2017, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Alright everyone, I thought I'd throw a quick rundown together if anyone is interested. The brake hoses were boned. I have yet to cut one open to check out the damage, but from how they feel while bending and the goop on the ends of the lines I can tell it's not going to be pretty. I went to financial war with the shop for messing up my brakes twice, and definitely came out victorious. Had it been a mom n' pop shop I wouldn't have, but seeing as it's an actual dealership and my consultant was particularly acerbic, I went ahead and put on my future-lawyer face. The original quote was ~400 for parts, ~100 for inspection, and ~300 for labor. I haggled and got the inspection fee dropped, along with a free powrflush once the work was complete. Labor wound up being 10+ hours! My consultant said everything had corroded together, parts were impossible to find, the tech's worked really hard, etc. etc. I paid for two hours of labor. At the end of the day, I was able to turn a $1000+ total into just under $600. I would have liked to do the work on my own as I could have saved another hundred, but with the deal I got and the time constraints I had, I feel like it was worth the extra money. Thanks for all your help!
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