Eaton E Locker issue - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 03-16-2018, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
popeyesides
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Eaton E Locker issue

Just an FYI for everybody - I have a 2006 Rubicon Unlimited with 42K miles. I broke the stock rear locker 3 years ago and replaced it with the stock Rubicon front locker, as it is stronger. However, I broke the rear locker again at KOH this year. The airline inside the differential has been leaking because the rubber hose is submerged in gear oil. Rubber and gear oil don't get along well, but that's besides the point (my fault for not double checking). It wiped out the spider gears because the locker was not fully engaged. So, against my better judgment, I decided to re-gear to 5.38 front and rear with Eaton E Lockers. I had ARB lockers in the past, and should have gone with them again. My E Lockers showed up today at my differential guy's shop and here is what showed up... see pics. They were delivered to us......broken. The tack welds which hold the tabs on either side of the locker were completely ripped off. Very poor tack welds to say the least. Due to poor packaging, the other locker had a bent tab that we refused to straighten due to the minuscule tack welds. We were waiting for Eaton to approve us to re-weld the tabs back on, but as we were waiting, we pulled off the C clip and the collar, to realize this was part of the electromagnetic components. So we decided regardless, not to re-weld the tabs back on for liability sake. Now that I have seen them in person and the wiring harness, I have decided that I am going to have my diff guy send them back and replace them with ARB air lockers. I cannot trust these Eaton E Lockers while off roading because they didn't even make it through the shipping process, let alone the beating they'd take while off roading. The distributor is shipping new collars with the tabs, red labeled at their cost, so we will have them tomorrow. They admitted that this is a common problem with their Eaton E Lockers as of late. Sorry Eaton, hopefully you get this right.
Looks like I will have front locker and both air compressor for sale.

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post #2 of 16 Old 03-16-2018, 06:29 AM
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I assume those tabs are to keep the magnet portion from spinning in the diff, and having those come off would cause the wires to be ripped out?

I can sort of understand a bad weld sneaking through every so often, but all four at once tells me they have a serious issue on their assembly line. To my untrained eye, it looks like the weld is not getting any penetration on either side, or the filler is somehow not proper. At least they're admitting it's an issue and working to correct it.
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-16-2018, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
I assume those tabs are to keep the magnet portion from spinning in the diff, and having those come off would cause the wires to be ripped out?

I can sort of understand a bad weld sneaking through every so often, but all four at once tells me they have a serious issue on their assembly line. To my untrained eye, it looks like the weld is not getting any penetration on either side, or the filler is somehow not proper. At least they're admitting it's an issue and working to correct it.
Yes you are correct, that is what the tabs do.
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-16-2018, 08:04 AM
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Just another reason I went with a Detroit over selectables
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-17-2018, 06:28 AM
Joe_Fordyce
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I have an Eaton in the rear 44 and beat the snot out of it. It has been in for about a year and have no problems so far.
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-17-2018, 07:16 AM
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Just another reason I went with a Detroit over selectables
If my rear Rubicon locker goes, that's what I'll replace it with. I had one before, I'd love having one again.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #7 of 16 Old 03-17-2018, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Should be up and running in a couple hours. I am going try and power both locker thru my factory wiring using my locker switch mod.
Will report back.
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post #8 of 16 Old 03-19-2018, 01:10 PM
DavePippin
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I recently got my rear eLocker in the mail. The box it comes in sucks as for mine one of the tabs was slightly bent. I straightened it out but they could easily avoid this with better packaging. I hope no issues arise from this.
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post #9 of 16 Old 04-26-2019, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popeyesides View Post
Should be up and running in a couple hours. I am going try and power both locker thru my factory wiring using my locker switch mod.
Will report back.
Never reported back?!

I've just ran into your same problem...
Ordered two E-Lockers, one locker came okay. The other, with a tab broke off and the other tab cracked at the weld. I "chatted" with Eaton today, and they said I could try to weld it back on... and to be sure the resistance was correct during the process and post welding. Of course, if the weld screws up the stator (ring) then it'll be a direct short or resistance won't be correct. I welded it up, and it's still good-to-go. Tested and confirmed with a call back to Eaton today with my "tests".

I also removed my stock Rubicon lockers since ruining the rear for the second time (on pavement, and hadn't been locked up. LSD gears ruined), and glad I didn't move the front to the rear and acquire a new front (as you did).. to only break it again down the road. So... hoping the E-Lockers last a bit longer. I've had them before, and really liked them... so, we'll see.

I've removed my locker sensors, and the airline fitting... drilled the airline out to 1/2" to use for the E-Locker wiring. Easier than drilling a 3rd hole and having to plug 2 at each end (4 total).

Should be back together tomorrow... then, I'll need to read up on those who are using their stock (Rubicon) locker switch or wiring to activate the E-Locker. I know I can buy two switches for the stock switch locations (TJ/LJ) as I have a soft top and no rear wiper or defroster... but, would rather use the stock switch. I'm also going to use the dash lights... and leave them blink as I think that's a better way to let me know my locker(s) are engaged or activated anyway.

... would love to hear back on what you came up with.

So, I attached 5 pics.
First two, are of the one locker and it's tab issues
Third and fourth, are of my fix... instead of waiting to send back and get another.
Fifth, is of the other locker and how small the original tack weld is on a tab.
Attached Thumbnails
2019-04-26 10.59.27.jpg   2019-04-26 10.59.18.jpg   2019-04-26 13.09.11.jpg   2019-04-26 13.09.38.jpg   2019-04-26 13.10.03.jpg  


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post #10 of 16 Old 04-26-2019, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyAirtime View Post
Never reported back?!

I've just ran into your same problem...
Ordered two E-Lockers, one locker came okay. The other, with a tab broke off and the other tab cracked at the weld. I "chatted" with Eaton today, and they said I could try to weld it back on... and to be sure the resistance was correct during the process and post welding. Of course, if the weld screws up the stator (ring) then it'll be a direct short or resistance won't be correct. I welded it up, and it's still good-to-go. Tested and confirmed with a call back to Eaton today with my "tests".

I also removed my stock Rubicon lockers since ruining the rear for the second time (on pavement, and hadn't been locked up. LSD gears ruined), and glad I didn't move the front to the rear and acquire a new front (as you did).. to only break it again down the road. So... hoping the E-Lockers last a bit longer. I've had them before, and really liked them... so, we'll see.

I've removed my locker sensors, and the airline fitting... drilled the airline out to 1/2" to use for the E-Locker wiring. Easier than drilling a 3rd hole and having to plug 2 at each end (4 total).

Should be back together tomorrow... then, I'll need to read up on those who are using their stock (Rubicon) locker switch or wiring to activate the E-Locker. I know I can buy two switches for the stock switch locations (TJ/LJ) as I have a soft top and no rear wiper or defroster... but, would rather use the stock switch. I'm also going to use the dash lights... and leave them blink as I think that's a better way to let me know my locker(s) are engaged or activated anyway.

... would love to hear back on what you came up with.

So, I attached 5 pics.
First two, are of the one locker and it's tab issues
Third and fourth, are of my fix... instead of waiting to send back and get another.
Fifth, is of the other locker and how small the original tack weld is on a tab.
Yes Eaton did overnight 2 new collars, good customer service. I have had the E lockers in for awhile and have had zero issues !!! 10 days at KOH this year to boot, Moab and Colorado plus our awesome trails here in AZ. I had to get used to them locking and unlocking by feel as you hear nothing. And yes I did wire them to my 2 ARB switches that I have had since 2006 after doing the locker mod. and yes my dash lights blink when engaged which does not bother me and have not researched how to make the lights solid.
I hope this helps Johnny.
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post #11 of 16 Old 04-26-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popeyesides View Post
Yes Eaton did overnight 2 new collars, good customer service. I have had the E lockers in for awhile and have had zero issues !!! 10 days at KOH this year to boot, Moab and Colorado plus our awesome trails here in AZ. I had to get used to them locking and unlocking by feel as you hear nothing. And yes I did wire them to my 2 ARB switches that I have had since 2006 after doing the locker mod. and yes my dash lights blink when engaged which does not bother me and have not researched how to make the lights solid.
I hope this helps Johnny.
And BTW, I have not experienced any of the BS comments about them unlocking in reverse going back to forward. If it happens it must be so subtle that I have never felt it and I would assume if anywhere I would feel it In Moab for sure, or I am so good I never have to back up. LMAO.
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post #12 of 16 Old 04-27-2019, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popeyesides View Post
Yes Eaton did overnight 2 new collars, good customer service. I have had the E lockers in for awhile and have had zero issues !!! 10 days at KOH this year to boot, Moab and Colorado plus our awesome trails here in AZ. I had to get used to them locking and unlocking by feel as you hear nothing. And yes I did wire them to my 2 ARB switches that I have had since 2006 after doing the locker mod. and yes my dash lights blink when engaged which does not bother me and have not researched how to make the lights solid.
I hope this helps Johnny.
It does... thank you!

You can wire the locker lights to 'not' flash, but remain 'on' and steady... found a few threads that explained the idea and how to wire (using a diode).

Glad to hear!! I'm finishing my install(s) today of the front and rear.

Johnny
San Diego, CA

2005 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon (LJ)
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post #13 of 16 Old 04-27-2019, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JohnnyAirtime View Post
It does... thank you!

You can wire the locker lights to 'not' flash, but remain 'on' and steady... found a few threads that explained the idea and how to wire (using a diode).

Glad to hear!! I'm finishing my install(s) today of the front and rear.
Good luck today. I just have my 4 ( 2- 2pairs)locker air compressor wires capped off on top of the frame where they were when plugged to the oem location. I originally tried to just tie them together but that just kept the dash lights on all the time and have not messed with them since.
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post #14 of 16 Old 04-29-2019, 08:09 AM
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Here, two diodes per locker (and locker light)...
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post #15 of 16 Old 04-29-2019, 08:10 AM
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A wiring pic...
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The opinions of worthless people, are worthless.

The only problem that you have with anyone in this world, is what you expect of them.

Society is no match for a stupid person.

"Life Is tough but it is tougher when you are stupid"

-John Wayne
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