DIY adj. control arms - Metalcloak Duroflex joints - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #31 of 43 Old 09-03-2016, 04:39 PM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 33,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
I definitely see the logic there. I should have given that consideration before I started.

I have seen other applications where notching is involved where the depth of the notch was half the diameter of the hole saw.
Would you recommend more like a depth a 1/4 of the diameter of the hole saw?
Not even that deep. If you view the depth from the end of the hole saw when you are lining up to notch it, you want the hole saw to cut only to the inner wall at the largest diameter. That means the overall depth of cut from the square end of a piece of tube is only going to be about 1/2" deep on 1.75" tube against a 2.5" hole saw. If you cut to the outside of the tube, you will have to grind the feather edge back anyway to get some thickness for welding.


I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 43 Old 09-04-2016, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
Registered User
 
TXST8tj's Avatar
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 3,435
I think I understand what you're saying. It will be just the slightest of notch.
Thank you for your help!

Patrick

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TXST8tj is offline  
post #33 of 43 Old 09-05-2016, 10:30 AM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 33,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
I think I understand what you're saying. It will be just the slightest of notch.
Thank you for your help!
If you line up the hole saw for depth back from the end of the tube and make the cut, the two longest points will still have the flat ends on them from the original tube cut.

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
 
post #34 of 43 Old 09-08-2016, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
Registered User
 
TXST8tj's Avatar
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 3,435
Ok, so I did some test notches this evening. I accomplished what you were talking about where the long points remained flat....the 'notch' was really just a nibble. I see the reason though because of the extra material to weld.

Because my cheap tube notcher is not 100% aligned out of the box, I continued with a full notch to get a better view of how much adjustment to make.

With the tube being as wide as the fixed joint end, will it be ok to weld along that outside edge? Should I have used 1.25" OD tube instead of the 1.5"?





Patrick

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TXST8tj is offline  
post #35 of 43 Old 09-09-2016, 07:27 AM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 33,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
Ok, so I did some test notches this evening. I accomplished what you were talking about where the long points remained flat....the 'notch' was really just a nibble. I see the reason though because of the extra material to weld.

Because my cheap tube notcher is not 100% aligned out of the box, I continued with a full notch to get a better view of how much adjustment to make.

With the tube being as wide as the fixed joint end, will it be ok to weld along that outside edge? Should I have used 1.25" OD tube instead of the 1.5"?




Once you do one, it all starts to make sense. I use 1.75" tube on 2" wide barrels specifically to avoid the melting of the snap ring groove because you should do a full weld. You can grind a deep bevel on the sides to try and stay back from the sides of the barrel. If you grind the bevel and get them in the hands of a decent Tig weldor, you'll have better luck.

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
post #36 of 43 Old 09-09-2016, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
Registered User
 
TXST8tj's Avatar
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 3,435
Thanks again.

I bought the materials for this project a looooong time ago and I did not put proper thought and reasoning into it at the time.
As I play this out now, I realize I should've gone with a smaller diameter and thinner walled tube. My mind was set on "overkill is best" and lost sight of logic.

Patrick

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TXST8tj is offline  
post #37 of 43 Old 09-11-2016, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
Registered User
 
TXST8tj's Avatar
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 3,435
I've put this much time into it, so let's see if we can make this work.
I got the tube cut to length and the notching done. I beveled the outside edges. I am hoping to be able to get a bead on there without screwing up the snap ring indent.

I ordered a 7/8"-14 tap to chase the tube insert threads. It should be in tomorrow.

I can easily find 1.25" OD tube with matching tube inserts, but the DOM is only .120 wall. I know that is very common for steering parts, but I don't know that I have seen anyone use that for upper control arms.
MC uses 1.25" OD, .188 wall tube for their upper arms. I can find the tube, but can't find the inserts for that OD/ID combo.











My Harbor Freight tube notcher that actually works pretty good once you modify it to align the hole saw with the centerline of the tube (a couple washers).


Patrick

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TXST8tj is offline  
post #38 of 43 Old 09-11-2016, 10:25 PM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 33,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
I can easily find 1.25" OD tube with matching tube inserts, but the DOM is only .120 wall. I know that is very common for steering parts, but I don't know that I have seen anyone use that for upper control arms.
I've never run anything but .120 wall uppers. No reason not to as they only operate in tension and compression.

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
post #39 of 43 Old 09-11-2016, 10:32 PM
pcoplin
Web Wheeler
 
pcoplin's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Lyons
Posts: 2,602
I've been known to have built a set from .095 wall. Whoops. .120 is perfect for uppers.

FullStack MotorSports
pcoplin is offline  
post #40 of 43 Old 09-12-2016, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
Registered User
 
TXST8tj's Avatar
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 3,435
Went for it. Pulled it off without damaging the snap ring groove.
Also chased the threads with the new $45 tap.

Just need to buff them out a bit and have them coated.



Patrick

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TXST8tj is offline  
post #41 of 43 Old 09-12-2016, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
Registered User
 
TXST8tj's Avatar
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 3,435
So with the fab portion of this project complete, here are some things I can tell the next person thinking about building homemade Metalcloak TJ rear upper control arms.....


I completed these with 1.5", .250 (1/4") wall DOM tube and tube insert for a 7/8"-14 thread.
I used a 2" wide fixed end, weld-on bushing and a 2" wide adjustable bushing with 7/8" shank. They do not offer the 7/8" shank any longer.




Metalcloak builds their arms with 1.25" OD, .188 (3/16") wall DOM tube. They use the following joints....

fixed end - $39/ea
http://www.metalcloak.com/2-OD-x-2-W...ing-p/7302.htm


adjustable end - $59/ea
http://www.metalcloak.com/2-5-8-ODx2...pud-p/7320.htm




The adjustable end has a 1" shank. The only weld-in tube inserts I have found are for a 1.25" ID, which pretty much means you would be stuck with 1.5" OD tube....unless you have the ends threaded, which is a good idea, but not as accessible as welding in a bung.
The issue with the 1.5" OD tube that I ran into is the lateral width of the weld-on bushing tube is also 1.5" wide. This makes it difficult to get a full weld bead along the outer edge. 1.25" OD tube would allow a generous weld platform.


Doing this project over today, considering the materials that are available, I would buy the 1.25" OD, .188 wall tube and have it threaded to work with the 1" shank of the joint that is available. For joints and tube, you're looking around $250 shipped. I don't know what the threading would cost.
The arms ready to go from Metalcloak will run you $308 to your door.
With the cost of materials, threading, and whatever you choose for coating, it is quite possible you would be at or above the shipped price for a set ready to go from MC.


My justification for doing it the way I did was #1 to spread the cost out by purchasing a little here and there. #2 was to educate myself on this process.
At the end of the day, if you are building custom length arms, this is the only way to go, but if you are building stock length +/-, just buy them ready to go from MC.

Patrick

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TXST8tj is offline  
post #42 of 43 Old 03-03-2017, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
Registered User
 
TXST8tj's Avatar
2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 3,435
I realized I never posted a completed picture.



toximus and Mattific like this.

Patrick

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TXST8tj is offline  
post #43 of 43 Old 03-05-2017, 09:22 AM
joe_jeep
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: hazel park, mi
Posts: 6,331
Garage
My plan was to build arms in pieces, to save a few bucks, and spread the cost over time.
i even considered a clevite bushing on one end, and johnny joint on the other, to drop the cost.

i got real lucky, a friend of a friend was tearing down a nice tj, to balk half, and swap tons in.
i hung out, had a few cold ones, got 2 sets of fairly new currie arms, and a savvy gts, stupid cheap.
So in the end i just bought the other 2 sets of currie arms from 4lowparts.com.

your arms look good, Nice job!

glfwda #6624
2005 rubicon sahara lj #592
joe_jeep is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome