DIY adj. control arms - Metalcloak Duroflex joints - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 43 Old 07-17-2013, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
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DIY adj. control arms - Metalcloak Duroflex joints

This will be my thread walking through the building of an eventual full set of adjustable control arms using Metalcloak's Duroflex joints.

I say eventual because these are getting built in stages. The truth is, they are actually a bit cheaper to buy already built from MC; however, taking the DIY route is allowing me to spread the cost out for the materials, while still remaining productive with what I have in the meantime. It is also allowing me to select the DOM sizes and specific joints that I choose to use.
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

My original plan was to use Currie Johnny Joints. It is no doubt the JJ has been the undisputed flex joint king for many years. With that said, I have been very intrigued by the reviews of the Metalcloak Duroflex joint. I am typically interested in trying newer things, and the majorly positive reviews make that an easy move for me.


I am starting with the rear upper arms. I have a SYE and CV ds sitting in boxes waiting to be installed and the rear uppers are one set of the two (lowers being the other) that I will need on hand to dial in the pinion.

After some deliberation, I decided to go with a single adjustable end....one end will have a fixed, welded on flex joint housing and the other will have a welded-in tube insert and a threaded flex joint.
I intend to follow this path for all of the sets of arms.
I decided on this route for a few reasons....simplicity, strength, and overall cost savings.

There were a couple conveniences I had to consider losing by not doing a double adjustable CA. One was that it is easier to adjust them with two adjustable ends. Another was that if I ever do a stretch, I could reuse the joints with new DOM tube and inserts and save the expense of rebuying joints.
My counter justifications for these are that once I do the initial length adjustments, I won't need to mess with them again and if I do a stretch/4-link, I will likely use all larger joints.



I started this build thread now because I just started receiving parts today.

I ordered the DOM and tube inserts from Ruff Stuff (cheapest prices and FAST shipping). And I of course the Duroflex joints from Metalcloak.

The DOM and inserts came in today.
I went with a 1.75"OD x .25"wall - 1.25"ID
And a corresponding 1.25" OD insert with 7/8" threaded shaft part.

Did I overdo the upper arms?





The Duroflex joints I am going with are these:




2-1/4" OD x 2"W - 7/8" straight spud




Patrick

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post #2 of 43 Old 07-17-2013, 02:49 PM
jbryant
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I'm in on this thread. I'm interested in the MC joints as maybe an upcoming project.
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post #3 of 43 Old 07-17-2013, 02:51 PM
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sweet!

build it once and build it right!
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post #4 of 43 Old 07-17-2013, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
Did I overdo the upper arms?
Nothing wrong with being overbuilt.

But 1.5" .25 would have worked, and even heard of some using 1.5 .120 wall since these will not be receiving the abuse the lowers see.
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post #5 of 43 Old 07-17-2013, 03:17 PM
commander184
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Love my double adjustable lowers....hate my single end uppers

'95 SaS s10 4 door blazer (one owner) dana 44's 36's, '05 rubicon 35's 4.5 rubicon express and 9.5ti
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post #6 of 43 Old 07-17-2013, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmarion View Post
Nothing wrong with being overbuilt.

But 1.5" .25 would have worked, and even heard of some using 1.5 .120 wall since these will not be receiving the abuse the lowers see.
I actually see that some companies use 1" OD tube. Something about that just doesn't seem right....in my mind.
In truth, I probably should've just gone with 1.5" OD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by commander184 View Post
Love my double adjustable lowers....hate my single end uppers
Everything I read suggests that double adjustable lowers are not always ideal because of the abuse they see.
After the initial setting, how many times have you needed to go back and readjust them?

Patrick

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post #7 of 43 Old 07-17-2013, 04:34 PM
commander184
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Quote:
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Everything I read suggests that double adjustable lowers are not always ideal because of the abuse they see.
After the initial setting, how many times have you needed to go back and readjust them?
Makes installation better....and I trashed my LCA mounts once. to get my pinion correct i played around till I got it where I had decent steering no wobble and no driveline vibration, took times of removing my uppers. Not too bad for lowers but I'd make ur uppers double adjustable

'95 SaS s10 4 door blazer (one owner) dana 44's 36's, '05 rubicon 35's 4.5 rubicon express and 9.5ti
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post #8 of 43 Old 07-17-2013, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
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Yeah, I hear ya on the installation part. That was a big item to consider in my decision making. I just looked at it where the savings and strength seem like they will make up for the hour of dialing in. Once that dialing in is done, I can't see any reason why I would need to adjust them again (unless it was needed for a belly-up). That one-time installation/dial-in with a double joint setup would cost about $50 more at the time of purchase.
That is my justification anyway. I do see the benefit, I just don't see the value (for my DIY arms).

Patrick

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post #9 of 43 Old 07-19-2013, 08:43 AM
offroadman83
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Btt............looking forward to progress. Been thinking about doing the same as I have the tubing and joints sitting here from a 1 ton yj project that went south. Of course that tubing is for when I one ton the tj I just got but tubing is cheap lol
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post #10 of 43 Old 07-22-2013, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
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Fixed end joints arrived today.



Patrick

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post #11 of 43 Old 07-22-2013, 01:56 PM
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What is the bolt hole size on the 2" wide joints?


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equipped... And loving it!

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post #12 of 43 Old 07-22-2013, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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What is the bolt hole size on the 2" wide joints?
At first, he the guy I talked to said it uses a 9/16" bolt, then he looked deeper and said it uses a 1/2" bolt. I see in their instructions that they supply a M12 bolt when you buy the complete arms.
They instruct you to drill the stock hole out with a 7/16" bit to use the M12 bolt. I plan to take the joint in to ACE and test fit some bolts. I will report back on what I find.

Patrick

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post #13 of 43 Old 11-14-2013, 02:46 PM
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So did you ever finish these?

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My Thread -
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post #14 of 43 Old 11-14-2013, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
TXST8tj
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No I haven't started them yet. Between the new baby and house, I haven't had time. I have been very good at collecting parts though!

I actually just bought a tube notcher the other day, which will help with this project. These will be the first project to test out the notcher (tire carrier second).

I am trying to source an 8.8, so I really need to get a move on with these.

Patrick

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post #15 of 43 Old 11-14-2013, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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So good thing we started talking about this again. I pulled out the parts I have for the project (1.75" OD DOM, tube inserts, and 2" dia DF weld-on joints). Something I overlooked is that the DF joint tube housing is only 1.5" wide. This makes my 1.75" OD tube too big. This proves, #1 - I'm an idiot, and #2 - I really should've just gone with the 1.5" OD DOM.

I might have another use for the 1.75" tube, so no worries there.

Patrick

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