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post #1 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
03rubiconMG
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Dana 70 Build

So i have been searching for a bigger axle for some time now. I had originally planned on buying an old empty 60 or something that needed to be rebuilt completely. Then last week i stumbled accross a Dana 70 out of a 68 F350 that had been recently rebuilt with 4.88s (the gearing i have) and a Detroit locker already installed in working condition. The previous owner converted it from dual wheels to single by adding a spacer and putting a single wheel drum brake on. So i couldnt not buy it, i picked it up for $300 and my plans are the following.

-Narrow it 4" 2 on each side to have the same width as stock TJ axles
-weld on spring perches and mounts to have to bolt into my TJ that i am keeping short arm.
-put disk brakes on it.
-shave it enough so that i can save some clearance but not have to custom the diff cover or machine down the ring.

one thing that stood out to me is the size of the diff, it seems to only measure about 7.5" from center of pumpkin to the bottom, my D44 measures about 6.5" in the same way so once i shave off the bottom a little i will only be losing 1/4"-1/2" of clearance over my current set up. That will give me a total of about 11.5" of clearance between the ground and the diff on 37s.

In the 4th picture you can see where the spacer has been added to convert to single wheel.
In the 5th picture you will notice the size of the pinion u-joint spot it is much smaller than a normal Dana 70, the PO put a smaller one on to make that the weak point over the driveshaft and i believe that may be a 1330 so my driveshaft will fit it. i will check later on.

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DSC_0062.jpg   DSC_0063.jpg   DSC_0064.jpg   DSC_0065.jpg   DSC_0067.jpg  


2003 white rubicon on 37s


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post #2 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 08:03 AM
Alex74012
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niceeeeee

thinkin bout a 44 front and 60 rear for mine

that dd rubi on 37's
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post #3 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 09:01 AM
sanchagrins
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looks beefy! When are you gonna get it put on? Are you still planning on running your 37's with it, or do you want to go larger?


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post #4 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
03rubiconMG
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Im planning on putting it on sometime this summer but i am going to wait till i can get a 60 for the front also so i can put 4 of the same wheel set up on instead of having 5 bolt in the front and 8 in there rear.

I am going to continue to run the 37s untill i get more things done to the jeep but will eventually like to move up to 40s in a few years.

2003 white rubicon on 37s


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post #5 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 09:29 AM
jason m
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Who's going to narrow it? The few rears I did I just the tube and spliced it with a internal spacer. Its not wrth trying to cut the plug welds and driving out the tube.

Why bolth sides? its easyer to have one side done and have U-joint off to the side than to cut bolth. I would say the yoke on that 70 is eather a 1410 or a 1350, so have it 4"s off to one side wont make any differnece with that sized joint.

Its your build, but I made a mistake for narrowing my front 60 5 years ago. I should of just bought deeper off set rims to suck it in the 4"s overall I was looking for.
Now I'm trail only but the buggy has a H2s witch are 5"s backspaced on fullwidth it will be narrow than the Jeep with a 64.5" front and the factory 67" WMS 14 bolt.

Agian not picking on the build, just asking because depending on the who in the NE area that does the shaft work it will cost around 200-250 for the shafts ( Mitchels Drivetrain ). Plus ( and I dont know who, you or not ) cutting and tube work.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...


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post #6 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 09:32 AM
Alex74012
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thats why im not goin to narrow mine,harder to find axles etc etc.
ill be on 40's by fall
im grinding on my d60 front now

that dd rubi on 37's
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post #7 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
03rubiconMG
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All input is helpfull, i do not have my heart set on anything other than having 1 tons under my jeep and keeping it stock width and daily driveable.

I am going to do all the work myself, except for altering the axle shafts, in looking at the axle i do not believe it would be difficult to cut the welds out of where the pumpkin attaches to the tube, but is the tube pressed in and then welded? if so then it wouldnt be worth it and i will go with the internal spacer idea.

I was originally planning on narrowing the axle because i am worried if i get the correct offset wheels (6") the full float part will be sticking out past the tire and i was trying to avoid that. because it might (will) get damaged on the trail. i also am not worried about wanting full width axles in the future, i like the jeep width.

I do not want to just cut one side because i will be running the smaller 1330 size u joint. maybe its hard to tell in the picture but the yoke on the axle came with a 1330 or 1310 size u joint, and i dont want to have to alter my driveshaft much if at all.

2003 white rubicon on 37s


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post #8 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 03rubiconMG View Post
All input is helpfull, i do not have my heart set on anything other than having 1 tons under my jeep and keeping it stock width and daily driveable.

I am going to do all the work myself, except for altering the axle shafts, in looking at the axle i do not believe it would be difficult to cut the welds out of where the pumpkin attaches to the tube, but is the tube pressed in and then welded? if so then it wouldnt be worth it and i will go with the internal spacer idea.

I was originally planning on narrowing the axle because i am worried if i get the correct offset wheels (6") the full float part will be sticking out past the tire and i was trying to avoid that. because it might (will) get damaged on the trail. i also am not worried about wanting full width axles in the future, i like the jeep width.

I do not want to just cut one side because i will be running the smaller 1330 size u joint. maybe its hard to tell in the picture but the yoke on the axle came with a 1330 or 1310 size u joint, and i dont want to have to alter my driveshaft much if at all.
i thought u were cutting em down because of fender coverage laws

that dd rubi on 37's
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post #9 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 10:39 AM
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Smoothie D70, very nice indeed. There are a few good how too's on Pirate for that. there's a whole lot you can knock off that pig. good luck with you build
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post #10 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Fender Coverage laws i guess are part of it, but my tires already stick about 3" past my 4.5" flares so that is kind of not a good reason for keeping them narrow. But less tire sticking out is better.

2003 white rubicon on 37s


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post #11 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 11:06 AM
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Ya the tube are pressed into the center section at the factory and they were done with a HD press. Remember when they press them in there not only are they there to lock themselve's to the housing but to seal the oil and keep it in the housing and letting it flow down to the hubs.

So to get them out you can do it, but its take a decent porta power or press. One mistake some do when they remove the tube's is they machine the housing or the tube's to get them to fit. Big mistke IMO, now you put all the support of the rig on the welds that hold the tubes on.

Dont worry about smashing the hubs, even the front hubs. There very strong and you wont hurt them in the slightest. Check out my Friends buggys ( the yellow one ) Today at Jason's he runs H1's on SRW axle's ( Chevy 60 front 70 rear ) and the hubs stick out alot. Yes he does hit them but he wont break them.
You can see whats left of my jeep and My front hubs do get hit but agian they wont break.

Ive ground up rocks with my rear 14 bolt hubs and there SRW one. I cant tuck them in any closer and I still hit them. So dont base your narrowing on hubs stick out, its a waste.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...


The happiest people don't have the best of everything, they make the best of everything.



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post #12 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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In learning how strong the hubs its leaning me toward buying some H1 tires are rims for the rear in their stock conditon. And not narrowing them, although they have 7" backspacing, is that getting too close to the frame with the tire?

2003 white rubicon on 37s


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Last edited by 03rubiconMG; 05-03-2010 at 12:13 PM.
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post #13 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 12:13 PM
Alex74012
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my buddy that runs a 44 front and 60 rear,said his h2 wheels have over 5 inches of bs

that dd rubi on 37's
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post #14 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 12:23 PM
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Looks like a prime axle candidate.

97 TJ 37s custom long arm
Gen right stretch tank
03 TJ buggy project. Stretched tub to LJ, Goat Built chassis, tons 42 pit bulls

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post #15 of 61 Old 05-03-2010, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Just another issue arazing when i think about a dep offset on the rear tires, i would like to be able to rotate the tires front and back once i get my 60 on the front. the deep offset will make it so in turning the rim will hit my tie rod. Also carry one spare to fit all. Is this something that is reasonable to have concern over?

2003 white rubicon on 37s


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