Dana 44 1350 yoke - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 07-23-2019, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
sduncan
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Dana 44 1350 yoke

Well.. Iím getting tired of replacing 1310 u joints at the axle end of the rear 44. The Spicer I swapped out today showed noticeable wear on the trunnions after two beach trips and 500ish miles of street driving. Granted, itís not a daily driver and I can be heavy on the foot pedal once in a while.. 400hp will cause that.. but Iím wanting something bigger at the axle end to put up with my sometimes heavy foot. Iím actually surprised that the 1310 is wearing like this as it should be able to last a while. Itís running at zero angle (CV DL pointed straight at the axle and has no vibration at all)and this is the third one in the last 2k or so miles.
Does anyone make a 1350 yoke for the TJ 44?

Thanks


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post #2 of 21 Old 07-23-2019, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sduncan View Post
Well.. I’m getting tired of replacing 1310 u joints at the axle end of the rear 44. The Spicer I swapped out today showed noticeable wear on the trunnions after two beach trips and 500ish miles of street driving. Granted, it’s not a daily driver and I can be heavy on the foot pedal once in a while.. 400hp will cause that.. but I’m wanting something bigger at the axle end to put up with my sometimes heavy foot. I’m actually surprised that the 1310 is wearing like this as it should be able to last a while. It’s running at zero angle (CV DL pointed straight at the axle and has no vibration at all)and this is the third one in the last 2k or so miles.
Does anyone make a 1350 yoke for the TJ 44?

Thanks
Might try giving Jesse at High Angle Driveline a call to see what he has if you can't find anything else

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post #3 of 21 Old 07-23-2019, 05:58 PM
Jerry Bransford
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I'd go nothing bigger than 1330 u-joints, the working angles get decreased too much with 1350 joints. I have a 1350 rear driveshaft but it's now strictly a spare, I replaced it with an all 1330 shaft. Running all 5-1330x joints up front too. My 1350 shaft yokes/ears were hitting when the axle was fully drooped, it sounded like a muffled machine gun at those times.

Still, I'm having trouble understanding why you're having trouble with 1310 u-joints. Are you using the sealed Spicer 5-1310x or something else like Spicer's greasable 5-153x? Any drivetrain vibrations?

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post #4 of 21 Old 07-23-2019, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I'd go nothing bigger than 1330 u-joints, the working angles get decreased too much with 1350 joints. I have a 1350 rear driveshaft but it's now strictly a spare, I replaced it with an all 1330 shaft. Running all 5-1330x joints up front too. My 1350 shaft yokes/ears were hitting when the axle was fully drooped, it sounded like a muffled machine gun at those times.

Still, I'm having trouble understanding why you're having trouble with 1310 u-joints. Are you using the sealed Spicer 5-1310x or something else like Spicer's greasable 5-153x? Any drivetrain vibrations?
Itís the greasable 153x. Iím not have an issue with breakage, just extreme premature wear. There are no vibrations and at the axle there is no angle. The CV DL is pointed straight (well, down 1-2 degrees) at the tcase. It appears that Iím simply over powering it.. I know this seems stupid, if not arrogant, to say due to other applications the 1310 is used on, but what else would cause it? My 1350 CV at the case is holding up. The ears were ground slightly for clearance but Iíve had no problems so far even with 12 in of wheel travel.
And for the sake of clarifying, this TJ is used almost exclusively in the sand dunes now and driving around town on the weekends when the weather is nice. Itís on 35s with 4.88s and the Hemi/545RFE combination. I bought an XJ for trails, rocks etc.

Thanks for the replies!

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post #5 of 21 Old 07-23-2019, 10:20 PM
Jerry Bransford
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I'd convert those 5-153x to 5-1310x, you'll gain strength and durability/longevity.

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post #6 of 21 Old 07-24-2019, 09:15 AM
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I am running a 1350 rear shaft with my LS swap. Easy to find the 1350 Yoke for the D44

Pm me if you have no luck. My local driveline shop has Spicer and I can give you their info.

As for the ears hitting, just dremel/die grind the clearance you need.

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post #7 of 21 Old 07-24-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TJnBC View Post
I am running a 1350 rear shaft with my LS swap. Easy to find the 1350 Yoke for the D44

Pm me if you have no luck. My local driveline shop has Spicer and I can give you their info.

As for the ears hitting, just dremel/die grind the clearance you need.
Thank you sir.. I have a beach trip in 10 days so Iíll make it with what I have and then swap it. Iíll get a message to you.
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post #8 of 21 Old 07-25-2019, 02:59 PM
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If your yoke uses the U-bolts and you're tightening them down too tight, it will wear the U-joints prematurely.

Ask me how I know...

1998 White TJ with a whole lotta stuff...

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post #9 of 21 Old 07-25-2019, 03:09 PM
Jerry Bransford
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I'd give that decision to go with 1350 a second thought. I'd go with, and did go with, nothing larger than a 1330. All my u-joints are 1330 and likely a 1310 would be fine for what I do... which is probably tougher than what 95% of Jeeps here ever see.

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post #10 of 21 Old 07-25-2019, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I'd give that decision to go with 1350 a second thought. I'd go with, and did go with, nothing larger than a 1330. All my u-joints are 1330 and likely a 1310 would be fine for what I do... which is probably tougher than what 95% of Jeeps here ever see.
With an LS or HEMI I don't think upgrading to a 1350 shaft and yoke is unreasonable.
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post #11 of 21 Old 07-25-2019, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy-WhiteTJ View Post
If your yoke uses the U-bolts and you're tightening them down too tight, it will wear the U-joints prematurely.

Ask me how I know...



This, are all 4 trunions showing wear or just the ones on the axle? Also, you may need to adjust the pinion down a few degrees. Under power you likely have a 0 degree angle on the ujoint, this will wear the needles in a single spot because there isn't enough angle to get the needle to rotate around inside the cap.

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post #12 of 21 Old 07-25-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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All 4 trunnions are showing wear. And at speed there is zero vibration. I doing want to introduce a vibration as Iíd be getting one issue over another. Anyway.. if I remember correctly Iím already down a degree or two now. Iíd rather replace u joints than put up with a vibration. I understand what Jerry is saying.. but remember.. Iím running roughly twice the hp as a 6 cyl. 4.0.

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post #13 of 21 Old 07-25-2019, 07:15 PM
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How did the needles look? Dropping a degree on your rear cv shaft shouldn't cause any vibes.



i agree with jerry about not needing more than 1310's. i have a healthy v-8, dana 60's and 42's and 1310's that last just fine.

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post #14 of 21 Old 07-25-2019, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy-WhiteTJ View Post
If your yoke uses the U-bolts and you're tightening them down too tight, it will wear the U-joints prematurely.

Ask me how I know...
And even the straps will cause premature wear of the u-joints if over tightened. In theory they shouldnít but in reality they do.
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post #15 of 21 Old 07-27-2019, 04:20 PM
astjp2
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No angle on the diff end will cause the needles to not move enough and cause advanced wear. You also lose droop with a 1350 if that is a factor in your driving. @Jerry Bransford is giving sound advice, you are not breaking, you have wear.
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