Hi, I'm going to replace my u joints on the front driveshaft. Could you guys post some part numbers of which ones I will need and if I should replace anything else on the driveshaft while at it? Thank you!
If the u joints need replacement, one could do the ball joints whilst in there if needed. Check the unit bearing during the process. tie rod ends links bla bla...since you are taking most of this apart to get to the axles any way. The only thing you cant get to is the inner seal. So be real careful putting that axle back in don't tear or cut that seal or you'll be back in there deeper next time pulling the dif. When you reinstall the axles SLATHER the end with grease helps to keep that from happening.
you have the tools to take this all apart? rust can make things much harder if thats an issue, petration oil days before. pressing in/out the joints can be problematic with out at least a vise. Ball joints you would need the C press tool. think most part stores lone them out. some rusted axles at the unit bearing can need a big slide hammer to pull it out, at least it makes that job easy pezzy. if you have a BSH with hub adapter and the such. most jeep this can be done on the trail in under 30 minutes, no rust and not pulling the U joint we have axles ready. just a fast swap, maybe.....
If the u joints need replacement, one could do the ball joints whilst in there if needed. Check the unit bearing during the process. tie rod ends links bla bla...since you are taking most of this apart to get to the axles any way. The only thing you cant get to is the inner seal. So be real careful putting that axle back in don't tear or cut that seal or you'll be back in there deeper next time pulling the dif. When you reinstall the axles SLATHER the end with grease helps to keep that from happening.
For your driveshaft, you can't do better than the Spicer 5-1310x u-joint which is a direct fit replacement. It's stronger and more durable than the OE Spicer the factory installed.
For your driveshaft, you can't do better than the Spicer 5-1310x u-joint which is a direct fit replacement. It's stronger and more durable than the OE Spicer the factory installed.
Hi, thank you for replying. I did order the Spicer 5-1310x like you said and it looks physically bigger. I have not tried to install it due to time however is that correct the new u joint is bigger than the OEM one?
Thank you
Not that I disagree with the Denny's suggestion, but there's always looking up parts based on the application (year/make/model), like you can do with just about any part that hasn't been modified.
Why do you need to replace your U-joints? I replace my a few times because the end cap had been damaged or came off. What had happened was the ears on my axle shaft spread. This happened on both sides. You may need to replace your axle shafts.
I went with CV axle shafts out of Grand Cherokee, some saythey may not be and strong as other alternatives, but it's quick and easy and has worked for me. If you want do need to replace your shafts and want to stick with Ujoints think about going with chromemoly shafts.
If you want to save some money, you can order and replace the CV bearing instead of replacing the entire Spicer 211544x CV yoke. The centering yoke bearing is Spicer 404-0a.
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